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2004 150 not peeing

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  • 2004 150 not peeing

    Doing a little maintenace on my 4 stroke 150 when I doscovered it wasn't peeing with ears muffs. Dropped lower unit, noted the impeller was worn so I replaced it.
    After replacing the impeller and reinstalling lower unit engine is still not peeing, any suggestions?

    Note the boat is a Florida boat that has been dry docked last 4 months, was running fine prior to storage.

  • #2
    try it in a tub or in the water
    some motors do not like the muffs

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    • #3
      Muffs

      Thanks. Just as a side bar it seemed to do fine with muffs last time it was running?

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      • #4
        Impeller installation

        is it possiple the impeller is turned the wrong way? I was under the impression it will "self correct" as the shaft spins.

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        • #5
          My F150 always pee's on the muff's.

          I would check the discharge hose and work backwards from there. Its possible either something (mud daubber) blocked it up or a small piece of the impeller got lodged in the line..

          The impeller, if installed backwards, will "change directions" without issue..

          Try flushing from the powerhead hose hook up, you may dislodge it...
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Or try running pc. Of heavy mono or seedeater string in the pee hole to un-stop it

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            • #7
              My F150, and most others, will overheat on the muffs.
              use the flush port provided on the motor.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                My F150, and most others, will overheat on the muffs.
                use the flush port provided on the motor.
                Running the engine on just the flush port WON'T DAMAGE the impellor, W/P?
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                • #9
                  you can use both flush port and the muffs if a tub is not available.

                  Put in tub or drop into the water if you want to make sure your work did not mess something up

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                    you can use both flush port and the muffs if a tub is not available.

                    Put in tub or drop into the water if you want to make sure your work did not mess something up
                    At the local marina, they had a simple "Y" connector (for after new WP installs) that connected to both the power head and the muffs. That was a gaurenteed, full water coolant to everything.. They'd eventually turn off the power head flush to make sure the WP was indeed pushing water normally. (I had the two seals replaced below the impellor plate by their Master Tech and did the WP while there).

                    I usually have at least 65 PSI up to 80 PSI, 1" line (PVC) going to the dock and of course, the garden hose will tapper down more yet. I have NEVER had an issue with an overheat, not enough water pissing, etc, on my F150. Maybe more water volume making it to the engine.

                    However, as asked to Rodbolt, I would think, NO water DIRECT to the impeller, (besides what's running down inside), is that enough to lubricate the impellor alone??


                    Added info, [B]from my owners manual, see the BELOW left CAUTION specifically stating NOT TO RUN THE ENGINE on the powerhead flushing device alone:

                    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-05-2014, 11:10 AM.
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                    • #11
                      follow Yamaha's recommendation that is in the manual.
                      Have know some that have run it with the flush, but when I directed then to the manual they stopped.

                      You can take your chances or follow recommendations
                      Last edited by 99yam40; 06-05-2014, 03:30 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                        follow Yamaha's recommendation that is in the manual.
                        Have know some that have run it with the flush, but when I directed then to the manual they stopped.

                        You can take your chances or follow recommendations
                        I can see doing both on initial start up for testing purposes, but "common sense" would dictate NOT to.

                        If you look at the flow chart of the coolant system, short of water running back down, water gets to the WP/impeller by the PU intake on the lower unit ONLY, NOT from atop..

                        IMO, either do both at the same time (IF RUNNING THE ENGINE), again, common sense. With my muff's on alone, it doesn't take 2, maybe 3 sec's to come out the pee hole.

                        And no, there is no reason to run it and gamble with a WP impeller, when another 10 seconds to put on muffs eliminates that chance..

                        I would like to hear from Rodbolt if his post was just misunderstood or posted incorrect...
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                        • #13
                          I know what the manual says.
                          and the manual has waffled over the years.
                          MOST F150 motors will overheat on the muffs and burn the pump housing.
                          dunno why its just been an observation since about 2004.
                          my personal F150 wont run on the muffs.
                          when I use the flush port I wait until water is draining out of the pump intake screen before starting it.
                          drive shaft seal replacement is rather normal.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                            I know what the manual says.
                            and the manual has waffled over the years.
                            MOST F150 motors will overheat on the muffs and burn the pump housing.
                            dunno why its just been an observation since about 2004.
                            my personal F150 wont run on the muffs.
                            when I use the flush port I wait until water is draining out of the pump intake screen before starting it.
                            drive shaft seal replacement is rather normal.
                            Interesting... Tks

                            And yes, I was told the seals go after x # of years. The top seal did fail (after 6 years), the bottom was still intact so both were replaced..
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

                              The impeller, if installed backwards, will "change directions" without issue..
                              .
                              This is interesting as I was under the impression they could not self correct if installed wrong, but I have never tried it to see.
                              I thought the impeller would be damaged if installed wrong.


                              What say yea Rodbolt or anyone else that has seen it happen

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