C40TLRX gear box drive shaft seals replacement

[pstephens46]

if this motor has ever seen salt or brackish water do yourself a favor.
fuggit about pulling the carrier.
wont come out.
they made the c 40 shift in two desighns.
if your pushs and pull don't worry about it.
if it rotates left and right then pull the shift shaft.
have a machine shop make you an adapter with your slide hammer thread on one end and the propshaft thread on the other.
pull the shaft and carrier together.

Somebody explain please. Does pulling the shift shaft allow for “pulling the carrier and propshaft together”? My understanding is the carrier is held in place by orings. What holds the propshaft in place? If I run my motor in reverse at 4500 rpm, what keeps the shaft and prop from popping off and ending up at the bottom of the ocean?

[99yam40]

SS is stuck down in a part that needs to come out. on some units.

we have no idea what motor you have so hard to say about what holds things in

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Somebody explain please. Does pulling the shift shaft allow for “pulling the carrier and propshaft together”? My understanding is the carrier is held in place by orings. What holds the propshaft in place? If I run my motor in reverse at 4500 rpm, what keeps the shaft and prop from popping off and ending up at the bottom of the ocean?

In your F150 for instance, the carrier : https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...g-drive-1-f150 holds everything together. The carrier is held into the lower unit case by the big weird nut, part #72. Once nut #72 is out, (RB often speaks of just cutting it out due to corrosion), the guts would come out(not sure if the shifter shaft has to come out first)..

That Suzuki 140 OB, with the badly cracked LU case, which we had welded(couple years ago I posted about), the carrier was held in with two bolts facing the prop. Once those two bolts came out the carrier came out, the prop stayed in the LU, unless you simply pulled it out (which we did for clean up before re-assembly..


Actually, 99yams is the style as the above Suzuki. Two bolts hold the carrier to the LU: https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...casing-drive-1 The bolts are part numbers 44 in this link...

[panasonic]

In your F150 for instance, the carrier : https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...g-drive-1-f150 holds everything together. The carrier is held into the lower unit case by the big weird nut, part #72. Once nut #72 is out, (RB often speaks of just cutting it out due to corrosion), the guts would come out(not sure if the shifter shaft has to come out first)..

That Suzuki 140 OB, with the badly cracked LU case, which we had welded(couple years ago I posted about), the carrier was held in with two bolts facing the prop. Once those two bolts came out the carrier came out, the prop stayed in the LU, unless you simply pulled it out (which we did for clean up before re-assembly..


Actually, 99yams is the style as the above Suzuki. Two bolts hold the carrier to the LU: https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...casing-drive-1 The bolts are part numbers 44 in this link...

The big weird nut is called a gland nut. And yes it is sometimes better to cut it out if it is corroded. They won't come out even if you have the proper gland nut tool sometimes and you just end up tearing it all to pieces.

My motors have two bolts that hold the carrier in place.

[walleye1]

I believe his carrier is held on with the two bolts.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe his carrier is held on with the two bolts.

In my post, #33, I posted a parts link for HIS LU and yes it is bolted on with TWO bolts.

[pstephens46]

The big weird nut is called a gland nut. And yes it is sometimes better to cut it out if it is corroded. They won't come out even if you have the proper gland nut tool sometimes and you just end up tearing it all to pieces.

My motors have two bolts that hold the carrier in place.

So the propshaft is retained by the carrier I assume. That gland nut is a pathetic design. Basically welds itself to the housing over time in salt. At least that is how mine appears.

[99yam40]

good new is I got the prop shaft seals out without destroying anything but a drill bit and the seals.
bad news is I did not put the shift shaft back in to hold the shift cam in place while I was working on removing the seals, and I cannot find the shift cam to slide the shift shaft into now, so looks like I will have to pull the carrier anyway.

this sucks

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Part #51 moved on ya?

https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...casing-drive-1

Well, the bright side. Once done, it'll be completely re-sealed and last you a long time..

[walleye1]

Why did you pull the shift shaft if you weren't going to pull the prop shaft? You can get it in there with a stiff
peace of wire to line the shift cam.

[99yam40]

I was trying to pull the prop shaft, but it was not moving, and I did not think about sticking it back in after pulling the shift shaft seal housing and not being able to get the prop shaft carrier to come out.

is it possible to re-a line it when I cannot see it from up top?

maybe I need to do a little more moving the lower unit around to see if I can spot it.

Spent this morning going thru an active shooter training at my church today.
hate to even think about that type of stuff, be all need to.

later today i zested a 5 gal bucket of Ponderosa lemons to make some Lemonchello and then juiced them to make some lemon wine . froze the juice for a later time, because I am getting older and am tired

[rodbolt17]

why not simply disassemble it CORRECTLY,fix it and CORRECTLY reassemble it.
in about the time I have spent reading 3 pages I pretty much could have had the unit apart and in the parts washer.
my favorite extra money machine is you-tube. I can get creative on fixing it after the customer watch's a video.
only issue with pulling the SHAFT and CARRIER is the shift mechanisim.
if it pushes and pulls you can remove it later.
if it rotates it must be pulled prior to propshaft removal.

[99yam40]

I thought you told me to not mess with trying to pull the carrier do to using it in salt for 20 years.
at least that is what I got out of your earlier post on this thread

[rodbolt17]

I told you not to pull JUST the carrier.
they tend to break.
pull the PROP SHAFT AND CARRIER.
I know I have done this over 30 yrs and most my procedures are not taught in Kennasaw. but they work and work well.
you simply have to look at what needs to be done and realize the SM was not set up for untrained techs on 20+ yr old motors.
but I do it every day.

[panasonic]

I thought you told me to not mess with trying to pull the carrier do to using it in salt for 20 years.
at least that is what I got out of your earlier post on this thread

I would do like Wally said and have a poke at it...see if you can get it back in place. Pull the little shift shaft seal carrier, get a good Brite flashlight and a straightened out coat hanger...nothing to lose at this point if it works.