I have progressive and pay for prop plus protection or whatever it’s called, it’s a 250 dollar deductible and pays for natural wear and tear on the lower unit, just hoping they will just consider it a wash and pay for a new lower unit I couldn’t find anyone in central Florida willing to rebuild it they only want to sell a complete lower unit
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2007 f115tlr drive shaft
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Originally posted by planseafishing View PostI have progressive and pay for prop plus protection or whatever it’s called, it’s a 250 dollar deductible and pays for natural wear and tear on the lower unit, just hoping they will just consider it a wash and pay for a new lower unit I couldn’t find anyone in central Florida willing to rebuild it they only want to sell a complete lower unit
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
If insurance pays for that Roscoe will eat his hat. Why rebuild? Go with the JBweld for starters as suggested. And reseal. 50-60 bucks if you DIY.
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If you think your insurance will pay why have you not talked to them yet to verify?
If they will not, then clean it all up good and see how it goes rigging it the best you can.
You have not cleared up ( explained) where the water was getting into yet
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostIf you think your insurance will pay why have you not talked to them yet to verify?
If they will not, then clean it all up good and see how it goes rigging it the best you can.
You have not cleared up ( explained) where the water was getting into yet
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostWhen I asked about how tight the impeller fit, that was WITHOUT THE KEY INSTALLED.
I was trying to determine IF the shaft diameter was also buggered up, the impeller should fit snug with and W/O the key.
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Originally posted by planseafishing View Post
For sure! That’s why I was reaching out to you guys for ideas, by all means I am very novice but I am willing to learn
likely will work like a charm.
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
Does post 43 make sense? Clean out that brutalized mess of a hole with solvent. Fill it with JB Weld, stick key in and use the impeller as a jig to hold key in place for 24 hours. Most
likely will work like a charm.
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When I asked about how tight the impeller fit, that was WITHOUT THE KEY INSTALLED.
I was trying to determine IF the shaft diameter was also buggered up, the impeller should fit snug with and W/O the key.
Mercury's impellers do not fit tight.
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
Does post 43 make sense? Clean out that brutalized mess of a hole with solvent. Fill it with JB Weld, stick key in and use the impeller as a jig to hold key in place for 24 hours. Most
likely will work like a charm.
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My vote is to clean and install too. Go fish...
If you are really going to go with the JB weld, clean the shaft, the key and the slot, apply the pooky doo. Lubricate the impeller with a light coat of grease (we don't want to weld the impeller onto the shaft)...
Now, really. Remember the resistance on the key is the friction of the impeller on the water pump cup and the water pressure. And it is always in the same direction, constantly, from ignition key turn to turn. Is it OMC that has that flat spot on the shaft and the unique light key assembly to hold the impeller?
I like it right, my life regularly depends on it.
At this point I was going to say that I'd be comfortable putting a new key in there and just let it ride, then I was thinking about the brass in the impeller cracking at the shaft slot.
If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....
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