I remove them all the time
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2007 f115tlr drive shaft
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alright gents finally got home, and getting to work on the lower unit.... this is what it really looks like, it appears my lower seal is busted as well??? there was trace amounts of water inside the impeller housing very little but still water.... so now what? should I consider purchasing a new lower unit or is it still cheaper to repair this even wit the shaft this bad?
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that's - "impressive"...
I imagine you could "paste" a new key in there, with some JB Weld to fill up the void.
What do you mean by "water in the impeller housing"?
That entire area runs submerged - water is supposed to be everywhere -
except inside the gearcase, where the oil is.
I can't see if the 'garter spring" is missing on the shaft seal.
But replacing those seals is easy.
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That shaft, new, is $300 alone, not installed...
Does the impeller fit snuggly on the shaft or sloppy (that shaft, overall, is awfully beat up). If it's sloppy, your wasting your time.
If the impeller fits snug, I'd either cut a new slot (as Pat mentioned), or weld just the edges of the current "slot" and grind down with a Dremel just until the key way fits... That key fits VERY, VERY snug. Likely why the last guy in there buggered it up so bad...
Even brazing the sides of the key way hole would work and be easier to machine (Dremel) back rectangular.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by robert graham View PostI'd be thinking a new drive shaft installed by a real Yamaha Technician....Originally posted by walleye1 View PostReplace the shaft by a yamaha tech,
ehhh - are we bringing men back from the dark side of the moon?
or just pumping seawater into a 12 yr old 115 hp outboard.
The impeller needs to turn with the shaft - so a key is needed to drive it;
beyond that - what's the benefit of spending any money?
Grease the ID of the impeller -
pack that hole with epoxy filler to hold the key in place -
slide the impeller down to hold in it all in place until it sets -
done.
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostThat shaft, new, is $300 alone, not installed...
Does the impeller fit snuggly on the shaft or sloppy (that shaft, overall, is awfully beat up). If it's sloppy, your wasting your time.
If the impeller fits snug, I'd either cut a new slot (as Pat mentioned), or weld just the edges of the current "slot" and grind down with a Dremel just until the key way fits... That key fits VERY, VERY snug. Likely why the last guy in there buggered it up so bad...
Even brazing the sides of the key way hole would work and be easier to machine (Dremel) back rectangular.
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OnOriginally posted by fairdeal View Post
ehhh - are we bringing men back from the dark side of the moon?
or just pumping seawater into a 12 yr old 115 hp outboard.
The impeller needs to turn with the shaft - so a key is needed to drive it;
beyond that - what's the benefit of spending any money?
Grease the ID of the impeller -
pack that hole with epoxy filler to hold the key in place -
slide the impeller down to hold in it all in place until it sets -
done.
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