2003 200hp hpdi bogging down while trying to get on plain.

[2003200hpdi]

looking for help. I have a 2003 200 HP HPDI. Motor has about 200 hours on it.
The motor starts, idles & runs fine when cold. The problem is when it is hot outside or the motor is warm, it bogs down when hit WOT trying to get on plane. It will continue to stay bogged down for a few seconds then take off. Sometimes letting off the throttle then turning back on a few times will shorten the bog down time. After the few seconds of bog down the RPM's kick up the boat go's on plane & runs well. The motor does not bog down or loose RPM's while running WOT like described in other threads, only on the initial take off trying to get on plane & only when the motor is warm or it is hot outside. Any ideas what could be the problem?

[99yam40]

computer hooked up to it while the problem shows up would be the best way to go

[2003200hpdi]

On the original post, I meant to say it does not bog down or loose RPM's while running WOT as i have seen on other threads.

[rodbolt17]

my guess would be a momentary loss of rail pressure.
this could be from a low VST level due to failing lift pumps or clogging of filters.

a couple things happen when the throttle is rapidly opened.

one is we just dumped a massive amount of air.
to compensate the ECU,based on the TPS rapidly changing voltage, will now INCREASE injector ON time.
HPDI does NOT use asynchroneous(group) injection like most other EFI engines.

if rail pressure is already marginal you will get a bog and a highlighted red PSI reading on the laptop.

however it could be a list of things.
that is were YDIS saves time it aint easter so quit hunting easter eggs.
mostly YDIS tells me what is NOT going wrong and allows me to look for what IS going wrong.

it WONT tell you what is wrong.

I watched a tech order a sshift position switch,then a few days later install the switch.
then scratched his rear and rubbed his front cause YDIS still threw a switch code.

I asked did you TEST the switch?
nope he says, YDIS said the switch was bad he says.

I said NOPE, YDIS simply said the recived signal wasn't in the ECU range.
wire was chafed.
simple repair fixed it.
took me less than 10 min to test the switch and repair the wire.

the ECU is rather STUPID.
it simply reacts to voltage signals.
if the signal is out of range high or low it throws a code,if monitored, and reacts.
however there are IN range failures like CTS and BARO sensors that only the tech can see.
its stupidly simple most the time just pay attention.