Over voltage and then failure of?

[barkleydave]

Here is my situation.

Motor: 2000 F80 4 stroke

Last fall I noticed the battery had gone dead. I replaced with new battery and did not pay much attention.

This spring again the new battery was too weak to crank. ( use this boat 8 months a year)

I checked battery and voltage had dropped to below 11 volts.

I used a booster and started motor no problem.

Immediately the voltage meter pegged at 16 volts!

It settled down to below 14 and I thought all was well. During the run I noticed the voltage had dropped below 12.5 volts. I activated the trim and the voltage dropped way down and the regulator did not compensate. I returned to port and voltage was at 12.3 with no increase when increasing RPMs.

So what might I be looking at here. rectifier/regulator, stator or?

Note: battery connections are clean and tight.


thanks,

safe boating,
dave

Marinette Yachts administrator

[boscoe99]

Check the regulator and all connections thereto for signs of distress. If you have gotten this many years out of the original R/R you are well ahead of most.

Check all of the electrical connections again for the battery, at both ends. Have the battery load tested. Check the battery switch if you have one.

The peak output of the R/R at WOT (current available to the battery) is only about 15 amps. The trim motor draws 40 amps or so in use. The battery has to provide the needed current while maintaining voltage while doing so. If the battery and/or connections are compromised you will see an excessive voltage drop.

[99yam40]

It is always best to charge the battery up completely on a charger before cranking up the motor.

Yes the motor will put out some amps, but it is hard on it to have to put out full amps continuously and it is not like your car/truck. Even those do not recommend running on a dead battery

[barkleydave]

Thanks for the information. Will check it out!

[Marc Kruse]

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...d-th22583.html

BarkleyDave

Here what mine did.

[barkleydave]

I am following up on my first post.

I pulled the boat out (pontoon) and checked all wires and terminals were clean and tight. I had to run the boat about 2 miles to the launch. I had the battery on a charger and it was up 100%. Static voltage on battery with Fluke meter was 12.8 volts. Volt meter on dash was reading apround 12.5+ volts. (not as accurate as the digital Fluke).

Ok Put the muffs on checked voltage prior to start. 13 volts (was surprised to see that). Immediately dropped to 12.4 when I started. I let run on the muffs for 25 min. and voltage got up to 13.1 volts @ 2,200 rpms.

I expected it to push at least 13.8 if working properly.

So question??? Is it time to replace the R/R?
I did touch it after running and it was hot like it should be.

Opinions...options would be appreciated.

P.S. All my other boats jump right up to 13.8-14 volts when engine is started.

Thanks all.

barkleydave

[CatCam]

I would bring the battery to an Autozone, PepBoys, etc, and have them check it our to ensure the battery is okay.

And don't use wing nuts on your cranking battery! Ask me how I know this!!!

[Marc Kruse]

I would also pull the R/R and ck the back and see if it shows any sign of overheating.

[boscoe99]

I would also pull the R/R and ck the back and see if it shows any sign of overheating.

I suggested that earlier. Don't know if he checked it or not.

[kokevako]

Have you checked the fuse on the machine, and its contact surfaces?

[barkleydave]

Have not pulled R/R but have checked fuses and all is well.

Battery is brand new. Also had same problem last fall and thought it was a bad battery. NOPE I charged it up and am not using that battery on one of my other boats without a problem.

I tested the new battery with my Load Pile and it was A-OK

After 14 yrs I think the R/R is giving up the ghost. Since I often travel up to 50 miles from home port I have decided to and ordered a new R/R.

I also put an amp meter on the line and max output was < 1.5 amps. when battery voltage was at 11.9 volts. (intentionally pulled battery down so I knew it would call for charge)

I will post my results after I install new one.

barkleydave

[barkleydave]

As directed I removed R/R Confirmation!




Thanks for all the input!


Dave

[boscoe99]

Yep, that is a distressed R/R. Typical damage. Good thing it did not light up and take out the computer sitting above it.

[Marc Kruse]

Just saved yourself 400 bucks or more depending on how bad the fire might have been.

[CatCam]

Well it could have been worse!

When mine Voltage Regulator went "up in smoke" it took out the CDI and melted my air intake -- when all was said and done I was out $1,000!

Mine was because I had a loose wing nut on my starting battery......now it is ONLY nuts with lockwashers!!