Oil Pressure Switch replacement T60TLR

[DaveSeas]

Hi everyone,
I live and boat in Puget Sound area. I have a 23' Panga with a 60HP Yamaha Four stroke. It is tiller con*****ed.

Recently I (DIY) installed a new water pump kit and changed the oil as preventative maintenance. When I went to sea trial it with running at high RPM for 30 minutes everything ran fine but when I pulled up to the dock the buzzer went off. The engine was not overheated (touch test) and water was pumping.

I took the boat out to the coast this weekend and ran it for 4 hours fully loaded with 5 divers. Ran great but I did not run it long at low idles and did not have the problem.

Referring to Service Manual my diagnosis is the oil pressure switch. So I have two questions:

1) is there a simple way to confirm the switch is bad without having to pressure test it?

2) I ordered a new switch. Not sure how to replace it? Looks like it is finger installation no tools? Information on what it takes to remove the old and replace with a new switch would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dave
Seattle

[boscoe99]

No way to test the switch unless pressure is applied and then allowed to dissipate.

The low oil pressure warning system can be tested without pressure but not the switch itself.

Take the switch to NAPA or similar auto parts store and they may have the tool needed to check the switch per the SM.

The switch simply screws into a threaded port on the motor. The threads are tapered metric type. First remove the electrical terminal fitting from the switch. Then, using the appropriate wrench unscrew the switch.

Install a new switch but don't over tighten. Sealant type is Locktite 572. Specified torque value is 6.6 lb-ft. The torque for the nut is 1.5 lb-ft.

Start the motor and verify there are no leaks.

[DaveSeas]

OK Thanks boscoe99,
I was hoping to confirm the issue, but I will replace the switch and if I don't get the buzzer will conclude it is fixed. The cost of the testing took is 4x the part cost

Dave

[boscoe99]

OK Thanks boscoe99,
I was hoping to confirm the issue, but I will replace the switch and if I don't get the buzzer will conclude it is fixed. The cost of the testing took is 4x the part cost

Dave

?????

Amazon.com: Hand Held Vacuum and Pressure Pump Tester Kit + Brake Fluid Bleeder + Adapters: Automotive

Or, like I suggested go to NAPA and they might loan you their tool for free.

[DaveSeas]

Must of been looking at the wrong part.
Thanks again,
Dave

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A good brake bleeder will have a pressure port (positive pressure) on it as Bosco noted.

I have the Mityvac: http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8...PJWYMGPJTFRQ7Q but under pressure (not vacuum), it does NOT register the pressure out...

Place that at the inlet of the oil switch and use a meter checking continuity. You can see exactly, (if its working) when it opens and closes.

An air compressor would also work but very difficult (if not impossible) to check the operating pressure.


Duh... Grounding or un-plugging the wire to the switch will activate the oil alarm (engine needs to be running(idleing)... (but not check the pressure)

[rodbolt17]

ok, the motors isn't blown up, means you have oil pressure.

to UN complicate things simply test it.

disconnected the wire from the switch terminal.
hook one lead of your multi meter to the switch terminal, the other to ground.
observe the reading.
should be less than 1 ohm.
start the motor and observe the reading,should read infinity or open circuit.

see how simple that test is.

its a switch.
same as the on on your wall that controls the lights.
its on or its off.

on its a closed circuit and you get low oil lamp,RPM reduction and a buzzer.
open(off) and nothing happens.

just like the overhead bulb.

[boscoe99]

ok, the motors isn't blown up, means you have oil pressure.

to UN complicate things simply test it.

disconnected the wire from the switch terminal.
hook one lead of your multi meter to the switch terminal, the other to ground.
observe the reading.
should be less than 1 ohm.
start the motor and observe the reading,should read infinity or open circuit.

see how simple that test is.

its a switch.
same as the on on your wall that controls the lights.
its on or its off.

on its a closed circuit and you get low oil lamp,RPM reduction and a buzzer.
open(off) and nothing happens.

just like the overhead bulb.

This will indeed tell if the switch is open or closing.

How will it be known that the switch is opening and closing at the specified values?

[99yam40]

it will not tell what pressure it is changing states, but it will tell you if the oil pressure switch is what is calling for buzzer at that time if you check while problem is there.

Then you would need to test what the switch operates at and measure oil pressure itself.

Maybe teeing in a pressure gauge would work for field testing on the water so you could just pull the cowling and look at gauge when buzzer goes off to see how much pressure is dropping if all else checks OK

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed with both the above. I did peek at my F150 shop manual (page 5-12) re testing the switch.

They test that particular switch with an electrical meter, after the engines been warmed up.

Approx 65.3 PSI @ idle, checking sensor input voltage. Input voltage 5 volts, output 2.8 volts.

[rodbolt17]

WTF



WTF


its ON or freakig OFF.
its a danm switch.

the F150 has a SENSOR.
the F115 has a freakingb ass switch.
come on folks this crap is just to simple without over complicating it.

a switch is SIMPLY on or freaking off.

Yamaha 4 strokes that use a SENSOR also use it with the ECU mapping.

[DaveSeas]

Found the loctite part number that is recommended for installation of the oil pressure switch.
HEre is the link
Product search - Henkel

[DaveSeas]

Replaced the oil pressure switch and the buzzer does not go off anymore. I did notice that there was a film of oil over the sensor which probably caused the problem. The old sensor might have only been blocked and might not have failed. But changed it anyway.

[rodbolt17]

its NOT a sensor, its a SWITCH.
on or off.

the F150 and up used a sensor and an ECU map that compared sensor output voltage with engine RPM.

to much or to little voltage feedback for a given RPM will cause an alarm on F150 and up.

the F115 and down used a simple on/off switch.

a simple way to tell?

the sensor has 3 wires,reference voltage,ground and pick off volts.

the switch has a single wire.

can the diaphragm fail?
yep.
but luckily they are easy to test.

[99yam40]

[QUOTE=DaveSeas;93224 I did notice that there was a film of oil over the sensor which probably caused the problem.[/QUOTE]

Maybe his referance to oil over (switch) was that it was leaking like Rodbolt said.

Good to hear it is fixed now