1996 250hp 2 stroke-bearing carrier seized in...

[LUCAS SHOTTS]

Evening guys,
got a pair of yam 250hp 1996, trying to get bearing carrier out of lower casing, got 20 tonne pullers on it , bending half inch plate that i have cut to fit especially, soaked in diesel for a month, heated it up with acetylene, left pullers on now under tension for 4 days, nothing has moved at all, not the slightest bit!
i am in the UK and these motors are not common, if i have to cut the lower casing away to reveal the inners , then how do i identify the correct lower casing over the internet , such as from the guys in florida who all show they sell this lower c asing, i need to be sure to get it right otherwise i am down the swanny to the tune of hundreds of dollars!
any help greatly recieved from a confused brit!
cheers
Lucas

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Part #66?? Did you try smacking the pulling bolts with a hammer? The shock will often loosen any corrosion and the parts pop apart.

Also, can you post the specific model # as there seems to be some minor variations on the models



20L250/parts.html

[rodbolt17]

is this the left hand case or the right hand case?
as far as the bare case goes the two are identical.
the left hand case requires the prop shaft to slide hammer adapter as the prop shaft and carrier come out as a unit once the shift shaft is removed.

attempting to pull just the carrier on that left hand unit will result in destruction of something.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

is this the left hand case or the right hand case?
as far as the bare case goes the two are identical.
the left hand case requires the prop shaft to slide hammer adapter as the prop shaft and carrier come out as a unit once the shift shaft is removed.

attempting to pull just the carrier on that left hand unit will result in destruction of something.

Doesn't sound like he pulled the shifter assembly... That'd make it stick I'd have to think...

[rodbolt17]

if its the left hand case, marked with a L on the aft portion just above the cavitation plate, the ONLY way it comes out is as an assy.
the shift shaft must be pulled and the carrier and prop shaft removed as an ASSY.
attempting to grab the carrier and pull against the prop shaft will destroy parts.

I tend to pull most carriers by the prop shaft with various adaptes I have had made by a local machine shop.

[LUCAS SHOTTS]

yamaha 250hp seized bearing carrier

hi guys

massive thanks for the responses;
answer to questions and points made;
model number/details;taken from sticker on transom clamp;
L250AETO
61B
UL
702154
Y

the boat is a 1995 boston whaler 28 offshore commercial, with twin yamahas, the problem one is the starboard side engine, the other engine has a sticker on it saying counter rotation.
I have checked on the underside of the cavitation plat , in the slight recess for the cav plate anode there are some numbers and also an "R". so I presume this is the right hand , which means the bearing carrier should come out around the prop shaft.
currently I have had the puller on the end of the shaft , pulling on the bearing carrier , I have manufactured a half inch plate with hole in middle for shaft .
as I say it is not moving at all, I have given it a "Glaswegian kiss" , hit with hammer.....for the shock tactic but nothing, both under load from puller and also alone.
I have a great guy who has had a go, he is 45 years working with outboards and cannot understand it either.
which is why I am asking how do I identify the correct casing , because I have a horrible feeling that we will have to cut the casing apart to recover the inside working parts and refix to another casing.
I think I can see a number down one of the chambers in the casing , I need to get down in there are clean it up to read it properly, will this help in getting hold of a leg casing?
anymore suggestions or help in getting the correct casing will mean when we all meet in the next world the beer is on me!! providing we are all over 21!!!
thanks in advance guys
lucas

[rodbolt17]

NO
QUIT.
that marking UNDER the cavitation plate where the trim tab is is for gear backlash you should see a F a P and an R.
the L stamped in the very aft end about 2" ABOVE the cavitation plate will tell if its a right or left rotation case.

the left hand case, it MUST have the shift shaft REMOVED.
it MUST be pulled apart with a slide hammer attached to the threads on the propshaft.

it CANNOT be pulled apart anyother way without severe damage to parts.

you can buy the tool or have one made at your local machine shop.

I take my slide hammer and the propnut for whatever engine I am working on.
they use a piece of scrap propshaft, typically 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 dia.
drill and tap one end about an inch and thread it for the hammer.
drill and tap the other end for the prop shaft threads.

its faster and typically eaiser than pulling a carrier on the stbd side as well.

but its THE ONLY was to do the case marked L.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Rod, I think his issue is with the other, right side engine. Same procedure?

with twin yamahas, the problem one is the starboard side engine, the other engine has a sticker on it saying counter rotation.

[rodbolt17]

the ONLY difference between the engines is which side the L case is mounted on.
but the right hand rotation case carrier can be pulled without pulling the propshaft, stupid but it can be done.
the lefthand rotation cannot.

its not uncommon to see engines with the gear cases swapped.

[throrope]

After my recent experience, you may want to remove the lower end and ship it to a certified Yamaha master technician. Much less hassle, no surprises for you and if they break it, its on them.

[LUCAS SHOTTS]

yam 250 hp seized bearing carrier

yep, done all that, the local yam guys have given in as they do not want to break something......
I have the best chap coming back with slide hammer this week to see if the shaft and carrier will come out together , just in case someone in the past has swapped out the inners.........
if all this falls apart guys , where can I get another casing?? and as I asked before how do I make sure I get the correct one sent over from your side of the puddle???
expensive mistake if the wrong one turns up......and then I am stuffed.

much appreciated for all your help

lucas

[99yam40]

Does the lower unit have the L mark as Rod posted?
Did that lower have a left prop mounted on it?

You can check with your local parts place for the proper part #
then check some of the ones on line to see what match's up
or see about an after market unit

[rodbolt17]

someone has reading comprehension issues.

if the L is missing or your unsure simply check it.

rotate the shift shaft counter clockwise until it locks in gear.
then rotate the drive shaft clockwise and watch the prop shaft.

if the propshaft rotates counter clockwise while rotating the driveshaft clockwise its an L case.

in any case DO NOT forget to remove the shift shaft FIRST.

the bare empty cases are identical.