Another water pump question

[01walter]

I started my SX200TXRB yesterday - hooked it up to the hose with muffs over the water intake. I had a new water pump installed before the season last year so its only got 1 year on the pump. I ran it for 30 seconds or so blowing out the fogging oil and noticed a very slow drip from the top of the engine water outlet. It was a good steady stream at the end of the year last fall. The muffs do not seal very well over the intake and the water pressure at my house isnt great. I'm wondering if there just wasnt enough water present for the pump to push all the way through the engine or if the pump is shot after just 1 year. I looked around for a garbage can or something to fill up far enough to dunk the lower unit but cant find anything big enough. Is there another method to test the water pump? I dont want to have to drag the boat to the marina and then have to drag it back home for a repair.

[robert graham]

Probably a spider or bug built a nest in the pee hole....stick a section of weed eater/monofilament line in the hole to clear it out....

[99yam40]

if the line does not clear it up, blow some compressed air up it while running on the muffs.
That will move things around a little way back up inside to get things moving again (usually)

[01walter]

OK - so I ran some weed eater line up in there - nothing coming out. I put the hose on the flushing unit - it seems to flush fine - water coming out the pee hole. Put it back on the muffs and nothing. Does this mean a new water pump? Can I do this myself? Some mechanical ability - by no means an expert...

[Bilge Rat]

Low water pressure/ volume can be the issue.
The muffs not sealing well is also cause for low flow.

With motor not running put muffs on, turn on water and press the muffs to seal them to motor. See if you get water out the tell tale. If so crank motor and press muffs. It should flow unless you have low water pressure.

The best solution is a 55 gall. plastic drum.

You get a complete flush because as the water warms the T stats open allowing water flow thru all passages.
The exhaust has proper backpressure due to being under water and quieter too.

On the muffs my motor has a weak stream. In the drum it is fine.

[robert graham]

Go to:Yamaha Maintenance Tips for video/instructions on how to replace water pump.....order the appropriate water pump kit, not just the impeller...You can do this job in your back yard in about an hour and a half...nothing very difficult or tricky about it...just take your time and hopefully it goes well for you!...

[01walter]

One more question - I just replaced both thermostats - one was stuck open and that side was running cold. Anything I could have done there to cause no flow or damage the water pump? It was a real simple job and I was careful that nothing went into the coolant passages.

Without other options I will look up the video and order a pump kit. Its very disappointing to get only 1 years use out of a pump - any way I could have damaged it? I run it in saltwater and don't get into shallow water often.

Thanks for your help.

[rodbolt17]

fastest way to damage that pump is running without water or low water pressure.
its why I typically use the flush device on the motor not the muffs.
a 30 second dry run can destroy that pump.

[madharchod]

who invented the ear muff i pretty sure it wasn't Yamaha some idiot thought it was a good idea when things were made to last not like now when everything is made with obsolescence
best solution is to either dip your engine in a 44 gal drum or drive down to the ramp where you can check your thermostat ,sometimes wasp make their way into the hive of the engine plate and it can obstruct your water flow ,if this is the case then you will have to open the plate and clean it up avoid breaking any bolts or else you will have to helicoil which aint cheap
good luck

[99yam40]

I looked around for a garbage can or something to fill up far enough to dunk the lower unit but cant find anything big enough. Is there another method to test the water pump? I dont want to have to drag the boat to the marina and then have to drag it back home for a repair.

Surely you can find something to set it in if you pull the prop off.

Maybe you have a close ramp you can just back the trailer and boat into just to run motor while on trailer.
But if it use to pee well on the muffs at your house then it would be a good idea to inspect pump.

I had an impeller loose 2 vanes in less then a year, I believe it happened when I started the motor with the lower unit up out of the water. Forgot to lower it after drifting over some very shallow water. But it was just for a second or 2, definitely can tell the prop is out of the water when it fires up.

or maybe it happened when I was just bumping the motor over to make sure battery was charged up before leaving the house( I do not do that anymore without water hooked up)

[01walter]

I have turned the motor over and run it long enough to determine that I'm not getting water out the tell tale hose a couple times now. Hopefully I have not created more trouble for myself doing that. The muffs just arent working so I'll try to locate a large barrel to dunk it in and try again. My vehicles aren't big enough to haul it to a launch so asking a friend to haul my 23' boat to a launch for a try is kind of a last resort. I had also read somewhere that running it on the flush system is not recommended - not enough water flow or something like that. Can I diagnose anything by knowing that the flush system is working?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

fastest way to damage that pump is running without water or low water pressure.
its why I typically use the flush device on the motor not the muffs.
a 30 second dry run can destroy that pump.

Quick question re the above. You run the engine on JUST the powerhead hose and nothing going to the lower unit/ water pump? There's enough water trickling down to lube the impellor?


While on the subject, when I last had my water pump and LU seals replaced by a Master Yamaha tech, when they initially tested the engine, they had a unit made up specifially for this.

It consisted of a line to a TEE fitting a garden hose to muffs, and another garden hose line to the powerhead flushing hose (with on/off shut off valves in-line). Turn the hose on, the powerhead and the water pump all get water immediatly. Then you can turn off the powerhead hose and make sure the pump itself is pumping water to the powerhead (and working properly).

[01walter]

So I have to admit to ignoring the obvious. Got home from work tonight, connected up the muffs,started the engine, ran down quickly and pushed on the muffs for all I was worth and viola! Water out the pee hole. It was a bad seal all the while. Sorry for the wild goose chase - but I learned a bit and all worked out well in the end. Thanks for all your help - it is great to have found this site. Lots of very helpful and useful info for someone who doesnt have much experience with boat motors.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I have to admit to ignoring the obvious. Got home from work tonight, connected up the muffs,started the engine, ran down quickly and pushed on the muffs for all I was worth and viola! Water out the pee hole. It was a bad seal all the while. Sorry for the wild goose chase - but I learned a bit and all worked out well in the end. Thanks for all your help - it is great to have found this site. Lots of very helpful and useful info for someone who doesnt have much experience with boat motors.

Excellent!

Just as a side note, the muffs I use have a pretty heavy steel frame. I put them in the vise and "tightened up" the space that slips over the lower unit for a nice tight fit. Water pressure won't blow them off (about 70 PSI here) (and I don't trust plastic framed muffs)..