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  • #16
    Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post
    I'm just spitballing here, reaching for the potential of water getting into the PTT hydro system by way of a bad plug reservoir o-ring and not because of a bad seal(s). I'm referring to part #24 below. I can state with absolute certainty that prior to looking at the parts blow out for my PTT unit I had no idea there was an o-ring inside the plug reservoir cap. I've removed/installed this cap at least twice while owning this motor to check fluid level....not once did I check when installing the plug cap that this o-ring was not only in good shape, but also if there even was an o-ring in the cap.

    Just doing some due diligence before tearing down the unit, assuming water entered the system via a busted seal and not because of a bad/missing plug reservoir o-ring. What do y'all think...I'm reaching, or logically possible water entered into system by passing thru plug and not by passing thru seal?
    Are you saying the o-ring was
    missing for a period of
    time?

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    • #17
      sounds like he is just guessing it might be missing or in bad shape.

      draining to get all of the contaminated fluid out cannot be done without taking it apart and refilling as you put it back together from what I understand.

      you could drain what you can and then refill, run it and repeat over and over, and it should get a lot of the water out(if it is water), but you will not get it all out doing it that way.
      Just an opinion

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      • #18
        Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post

        Are you saying the o-ring was
        missing for a period of
        time?
        Nah, I'm saying I had no idea there was an o-ring in the cap...therefore I never checked this o-ring prior to screwing cap back on the few times I've removed cap. But like I said...i'm just exploring all possibilities prior to investing $200+ for seals and o-rings
        Jason
        1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post

          Nah, I'm saying I had no idea there was an o-ring in the cap...therefore I never checked this o-ring prior to screwing cap back on the few times I've removed cap. But like I said...i'm just exploring all possibilities prior to investing $200+ for seals and o-rings
          Got it. 200 stinks but the unit is prob 2 grand new 20 years old. They wear out. I almost bought the spanner wrench set awhile back but realized it was a seal issue with pump body. If I had it you could borrow it.

          have you looked at the Marinetechtools video?
          Pulling those pistons will allow you to vacuum most of that old fluid.
          Last edited by pstephens46; 08-07-2018, 09:24 PM.

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          • #20
            As Yam said you pretty much have to take it apart to get all that emulsified fluid out of there. And if you are going to pull the Pistons then you may as well replace the packings and backup seals...

            Seems strange that there is nobody running a exchange shop down there where you can send your old one in for repair and or exchange. I think Bosco said something about that...

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            • #21
              My father's neighbor is a yam mechanic so I'm hoping he'll take on the task. This would be the first time I've even considered hiring out for mechanical labor with this engine....I'd probably enjoy the challenge, but I just don't see me having the time to dive into this specific repair and have it completed in a reasonable amount of time...plus I doubt I'd have the patience for my rig to be out of commission for extended period of time if I were to tackle the repair. Might just have to dig down in these pockets, pull out the dough so I can get back in my rig within a week.
              Jason
              1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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              • #22
                check to see if it is one boat unit

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                  check to see if it is one boat unit
                  One boat unit??
                  Jason
                  1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post
                    My father's neighbor is a yam mechanic so I'm hoping he'll take on the task. This would be the first time I've even considered hiring out for mechanical labor with this engine....I'd probably enjoy the challenge, but I just don't see me having the time to dive into this specific repair and have it completed in a reasonable amount of time...plus I doubt I'd have the patience for my rig to be out of commission for extended period of time if I were to tackle the repair. Might just have to dig down in these pockets, pull out the dough so I can get back in my rig within a week.
                    Maybe he has the tools. And he can chase those little check valve balls around the shop floor too. If done right, should last for years.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post

                      Maybe he has the tools. And he can chase those little check valve balls around the shop floor too. If done right, should last for years.
                      He does. You mentioned check valve....aside from seals and o-rings, and knowing the PTT motor is operational, do I need to order any additional parts? Pictured is the PTT parts blow-out. I've highlighted yellow the seals and o-rings I plan on ordering. The part numbers highlighted red are associated with the check valve. Should these parts highlighted red also be replaced?
                      Jason
                      1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post

                        He does. You mentioned check valve....aside from seals and o-rings, and knowing the PTT motor is operational, do I need to order any additional parts? Pictured is the PTT parts blow-out. I've highlighted yellow the seals and o-rings I plan on ordering. The part numbers highlighted red are associated with the check valve. Should these parts highlighted red also be replaced?
                        I would be talking the the guy that will do it to see what all he wanted

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                        • #27
                          Don’t think 11 and 7 would normally be replaced.
                          Unless they get wrecked by removal.

                          Maybe 11 and 8....referring to piston and cap.....
                          Last edited by pstephens46; 08-09-2018, 09:26 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post

                            I would be talking the the guy that will do it to see what all he wanted
                            Plus 1 ^^^. He'd know what he needs and what he doesn't.

                            If he wants you to order the parts, I'd print out the parts diagram, have him circle what he needs and then you can order.

                            I don't see it taking more than a couple hours labor, if you know what your doing (or folks would buy a new unit as labor would cost way more).

                            Also, plus one RE the seals being 21 years old and in the marine environment. Rubber goes away, breaks down and there's some serious pressures inside that unit making the seals work that much harder...

                            Good luck..
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                            • #29
                              Make sure you have some new bolts for the pump mount. Mine was leaking from the mount area due to salt building up and stretching the bolts. Each one broke. Those are just PTT units that Yammie and Suzuki buy off the shelf. My shitty Yamaha dealer didn’t even carry the o rings so I got everything from the Zuke dealer across the road off the shelf. Was Cheaper too. DF140A is exactly the same. It’s any easy job if it all comes apart easily but a pain removing broken bolts. I already had a tool to undo the cylinder glands but that is something you need. As mentioned watch those check valve ball bearings - don’t worry you can buy them from any bearing supplier 🤐🤐🤐

                              FYI - all the pump/motor/reservoir are imperial - not metric

                              This is the OEM -
                              https://www.showa1.com/en/product/bo...tilt_trim.html
                              Last edited by grpaxto67; 08-09-2018, 10:48 PM.

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                              • #30
                                Update....my pops long time yam mechanic took a look at my PTT unit. Flushed all the old emulsified oil out with new, then pressurized, then repeated this process until fresh oil came out...then repaeted few more times. De-aired. Functions back to normal. He acknowledges not knowing how water got in unless passing by cap. But being that the system had both air and emulsified oil, and not knowing which was causing poor function, only way to know if a bad seal is if unit acts up again....since we now know the system is air tight. We shall see. I'm guessing a bad seal....hope I'm wrong.
                                Jason
                                1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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