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F115 EFI with 50 hrs starts and dies consistently after 6 seconds - resolved

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  • F115 EFI with 50 hrs starts and dies consistently after 6 seconds - resolved

    The issue is resolved but the fix was unexpected. I am posting since I didn't find the particular solution referenced in any forum. It may help someone experimenting the same problem.

    The engine cranks and starts immediately then systematically dies after 6 seconds. The rule is 1. check the boat and 2. check the engine.

    1. I went through an inspection of the fuel line, suspecting an air leak. I tested the line by adding a clear vinyl tube before an automobile fuel pump and a discharge in a auxiliary tank. No air bubbles. I doubled checked by connecting the auxiliary tank to the engine and starting the engine. It died after 6 seconds. Fuel supply is plenty and clean. All connection on the harness are checked with no issue found.

    2. Fuel filter and water separator/detector before the pump is checked, good flow to the pump, no issue. I am suspecting the pump went bad but the engine is still under warranty and I won't touch it. I move to the electrical and check the fuses, relay, still thinking about the pump. The main 50 A fuse is blown. I replace it with the spare, start the engine and it runs like it should.

    I am quite surprised that the engine would start and the tilt motor would work without the main 50 A fuse. I thought this fuse was the engine gate keeper.

    Note: I am not worried about the fuse blowing since the boat went through some electric work, i.e. the start battery bank was moved from the transom area to the center console. This work involved pulling wires from the transom to the helm and installing 2 connection studs in a dry storage box to connect the engine wires to the extended battery wires. It is quite possible that I accidentally created a quick short when connecting the wires in a small space. However your opinions about the reasons for the fuse to blow matter, please feel free to advise.

  • #2
    its an amazing story.

    Unless I'm extremely confused -
    or the Yamaha wiring diagrams are incorrect -
    with the 50 amp fuse "blown"
    - the t/t switch should not have had any power to close the t/t relay
    - the starter relay would have had no power
    - the main relay would have had no power
    - the keyswitch would have had no power.

    Besides the t/t not working, the engine would not be able to crank, much less run
    (although in fairness it only ran for "6 seconds")


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    • #3
      First post here as well as same first post over on THT. For what purpose?

      You also mention warranty and not wanting “to touch it”. You did plenty to “touch it”. What gives???
      Last edited by pstephens46; 07-31-2018, 04:35 PM.

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      • #4
        fairdeal, so am I, totally confused. That's the reason I am posting. I will remove the 50 A tomorrow and see if I can reproduce the situation. That only can validate the finding. I have ordered the service manual and look into it.

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        • #5
          @pstephen46, I have been following these 2 forums for several years because of the unique information and experience I can find. I have learned a lot thanks to all the posters. I want to reciprocate, it's the least I can do! In regard to the warranty, I don't touch anything that is not routine owner maintenance (filters, fuses, oil, ...) until it expires.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by sanmarco View Post
            @pstephen46, I have been following these 2 forums for several years because of the unique information and experience I can find. I have learned a lot thanks to all the posters. I want to reciprocate, it's the least I can do! In regard to the warranty, I don't touch anything that is not routine owner maintenance (filters, fuses, oil, ...) until it expires.
            You must be in a remote area with tough access to a good shop that can handle warranty repairs. If I had warranty, I would check with the shop first as it reads like you may have been working on this awhile?

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            • #7
              I have reproduced the failure by removing the 50 A fuse. The engine starts and dies in 6 seconds. I replace the fuse and the engine starts and doesn't die. The pics below show the fuse box with the 50 A removed.
              The fuse controls the circuit to the pump and probably the ECU and more. The key switch is powered from the house battery and conveys power to the tilt motor, the starter relay, ... There is no fuse on the starter circuit (260 A) from the start battery to the starter. Therefore the motor starts (after priming) and starves quickly.
              The Trouble Analysis chart in the service manual doesn't link the pump and this 50 A fuse. The box cover's diagram links the pump, coils, ECU, VST to the 20 A fuse. And that's the one I obviously checked first to find it fine.
              I hope this will help someone struggling with the same issue.

              2018-08-01_13-35-09c.jpg20180801_13002a7.jpg20180801_12584b7.jpg

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