Water separator filter

[01walter]

I want to put a water separator in before launching this year. Any recommendations for an SX200TXRB? There are alot of choices online and I'm not certain what flow rate is needed, if there is a preferred vendor for Yamaha, etc. Thanks.

[robert graham]

Walmart carries an Attwood fuel/water/seperator that costs about $28, easy to install and a pretty darn good unit....the cartridges are sold there also for about $9, so you can carry a spare on board....

[01walter]

Thanks - I'll head out later today to check em out.

[robert graham]

Walmart carries an Attwood fuel/water/seperator that costs about $28, easy to install and a pretty darn good unit....the cartridges are sold there also for about $9, so you can carry a spare on board....

[99yam40]

Robert , are you loosing it

your starting to repeat yourself

[robert graham]

Robert , are you loosing it

your starting to repeat yourself

Yep, I'm loosing it....came back in and couldn't remember if I'd posted that or not!....been breathing too much 2 stroke outboard smoke I guess!....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Robert , are you loosing it

your starting to repeat yourself

There's an echo in here...


There's an echo in here...



For the op, make sure its a 10 micron filter (most are). Most use the same aluminum base, a filter only obviously just screws onto the base. The water separator, has the plastic separate base, usually with a drain and overall is taller.

Just for insurance, I carry a spare, regular filter (no plastic) should the plastic separator get damaged (start leaking, etc). The unit is a bit taller and an extension plate (depending on your transom/placement) may be needed. I wanted my filter in the same spot as previously but had to make a .25" thick aluminum plate extending it upward some or you couldn't get the base off (due to space limitations)

[01walter]

Thanks - the photo helps alot too. I just unwrapped my boat yesterday and was thinking of a side mount in the transom area but I assume anywhere it fits will work. Do most filters come with all the hardware needed? Fittings, plugs, and clamps? It looks like there is teflon tape on the threads - does that potentially leach into the gas? The local Walmart here did not carry any separators so I'm looking online - most are running $45-$50 for the kit including one spin on filter - sound reasonable? I was looking at models without the plastic drain on the bottom - will a once a season change of the filter unit be sufficient? Thanks.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks - the photo helps alot too. I just unwrapped my boat yesterday and was thinking of a side mount in the transom area but I assume anywhere it fits will work. Do most filters come with all the hardware needed? Fittings, plugs, and clamps? It looks like there is teflon tape on the threads - does that potentially leach into the gas? The local Walmart here did not carry any separators so I'm looking online - most are running $45-$50 for the kit including one spin on filter - sound reasonable? I was looking at models without the plastic drain on the bottom - will a once a season change of the filter unit be sufficient? Thanks.

The previous one I had was a solid steel unit. You couldn't see if there was water in it unless you un-screwed and dumped it. It is more stout than the plastic cup. As noted above, should I somehow break the plastic cup, I have a spare steel only filter sealed up, stored under the center console.

This unit, you can see any water on the bottom of the plastic cup AND more importantly DRAIN IT-(it has a plastic, screw on the bottom you can loosen and drain W/O tools) right there.

Re mounting, side mounting is fine, I would keep the "tank line" as close to horizontal with the filter(ie, not going up hill). You may need some more fuel line, depending on how you mount the unit and run the lines.

I did put the teflon tape on, as long as its on the threads and NOT sticking out, its fine. Most units give you four openings(2 "in's", & 2 "outs"), two of which you plug off-depending on your application). I don't re-call if the plugs, hose fittings, clamps were included as different sized engines use different sized lines(probably not). Any harware store can supply those, (use SS for mounting the unit). The fuel fittings/plugs are usually brass, pipe thread.

The teflon tape isn't usually included, the main mounting bolts, are NOT included (as mounting varies-holes I believe are 3/8" in the unit)

Unless you have a load of water in your tank, a steel one is fine, especially if your replacing it yearly as you should.

If you can afford a SS main unit, and you plan on keeping your boat a long time, get it. Most (including mine) are aluminum and are just painted. I removed mine once due to salt water spray corrosion, peeled off what paint was left, cleaned it spotless and re-painted with Rustoleum (that's what's currently on there and holding up well). *My neighbors aluminum unit, had to be replaced after literally falling apart-the mounting tabs, corroded (it was pretty old)

Just a side note, when I did use the steel unit (no plastic cup) and changed it out, I would dump it in a very clean container and inspect it for crap and ANY WATER, just to know what was coming out of my tank.

[01walter]

Thanks - great advice. I think I know how to proceed now - appreciate the help!

[throrope]

A note on teflon tape - the stuff used for plumbing is not rated for fuel. The rated for fuel stuff I bought was yellow, a couple of hooks over and about double the price or two bucks. This thread has a photo http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...th7586-p2.html

I used permatex thread sealant available at any automotive store.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A note on teflon tape - the stuff used for plumbing is not rated for fuel. The rated for fuel stuff I bought was yellow, a couple of hooks over and about double the price or two bucks. This thread has a photo http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...th7586-p2.html

I used permatex thread sealant available at any automotive store.

Interesting! Didn't know the product existed..

Doing some follow up research, I found these two threads:

How to Properly seal Fuel Fittings and Fuel Lines

And this product:
Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant

I've had the regular Teflon tape on since 1997 without any issues. Should I re-plumb, I'll likely use the other thread sealant..

[robert graham]

I thought most folks used the white Teflon pipe dope/sealing compound for the fuel line threads....the Teflon tape can get cut by the threads and create Teflon "hairs" which can certainly plug a fuel system....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I thought most folks used the white Teflon pipe dope/sealing compound for the fuel line threads....the Teflon tape can get cut by the threads and create Teflon "hairs" which can certainly plug a fuel system....

The tape is on the male end and if there's not any extra sticking "forward", as you tighten it down into the female end, if anything, it'll go deeper into the female end (away from the fluid flow).

IME, most (if not all) high pressure fuel pressure connectors have flared fittings (similar to brake lines) or factory disconnect fittings(again-no threads/sealant) and don't use any sealant what so ever.

Agreed thou, if sloppily put on and excess is literally in the line when assembled, it'll cause issues. Any fittings I use tape on (PVC, galvanized pipe, etc) I make sure there is no extra to stick out and cause issues further down the pipe..