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F225 7 years old with 184 hours on it that has intermittent electrical starting problems. Wire harness plugs from console and motor removed and all wires hard wired. New ignition switch and starter solenoid replaced. Wire harness meter checked and all batteries good. One you start it runs great until you turn the key off. Some times you turn the key starts fine other times nothing. No juice to the motor. Now here’s where the ignition problem baffles me. When it doesn’t start if you bump the trim and tilt switch the motor starts right up. Been in the shop 7 times and we all know with intermittent problems hard to fine. Any suggestions?
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Would not bumping the trim tilt switch affecting starting indicate a bad connection somewhere? Probably in back of boat or on motor? Did you clean all the grounds attached to motor, etc.
Wiggle some wires the next time it refuses to start...... -
you did not say if the start relay clicks when no start.
But with the trim switch helping, I would also say bad connection or bad battery cable
simple enough to test with a meter when the motor will not startComment
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All wires are tight and no relay click. The motor is not getting 12 volts. The problem is it’s an internment problem. On the last trip out after picking the motor up from the shop started the motor on rabbit ears that evening and the morning of the trip. Started fine at the dock. Made a 21 mile trip to the fishing hole fished an hour turned the key and nothing. Bumped trim and tilt and started fine ran to the next to stops when it wouldn’t start again. Bumped trim and tile started and ran fine. Tired of changing out parts.Comment
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The trim switch touch induces heavy current that "pulls" the connection together for a moment. This is a classic bad battery connection or close to it where things maybe connected, problem. Go and undo these and clean and if available coat with a dialectric stuff made for the purpose, and then retighten. This should be part of a regular maintenance schedule , these connections do eventually fail particularly if a lot of acid vapour/salt spray is not adequately ventilated.Comment
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And find another shop, seven times seems to suggest they are incompetent, or see you as a cash cow. Tight does not necessarily mean connections are resistance free. As suggested they should be cleaned with a BBQ brass brush or similar, even if they look clean when undone.Last edited by zenoahphobic; 07-06-2018, 08:01 PM.Comment
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Batteries checked and double checked, connections under gunnels checked and o
power cables attached to motor checked. Batteries and perko switch in the console. The connection on the gunnels protectd by double cap and attachment to motor under cowling. Marine dealership trying to get hold of a Yamaha tech to see if he can come up with something.Comment
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We actually used a battery terminal brush on all connections. The marine repair facility is a main dealership that sells and repairs 100K-300k boats. With the intermittent problem it always starts when brought in.Comment
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Power cables meter tested all the way to motor 12 volt terminals.Comment
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hahahah this issue is to easy.
find a shop that has a tech that can actually use a multi meter.
circuit path is from the starter lug to the 10 pin main to the switch via the red wire.
from the switch to the safty switch to the start relay via the brown wire.
a simple voltage drop test can find it quickly.
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Well after many times in the shop unable to find the issue we finally found it. Neutral start harnes plug was corroded. Telling the motor it was in gear.Originally posted by Jfitz1949 View PostComment
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That's good that you finally found it. Could you provide a pic of the corroded plug for us to see? It may help someone in the future?Comment
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hahahaah
to stupidly simple.
should have been caught by a 2nd week student at MMI.
and the description is all wrong. it is a switch, that switch tells the motor NOTHING.
cannot be monitored with YDS.
if it is open current simply wont flow.
your chain got yanked.
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A sad story of a sorry situation.
And - no fault of the OP,
since he has no more understanding of the engine
than the incompetents who (repeatedly) took his money -
we were given bad information:
Originally posted by Jfitz1949 View PostOriginally posted by Jfitz1949 View Post
If the problem was the neutral switch inside the remote control,
then the starting relay was the only thing "not getting 12V".
"the motor" would have had all the "juice" it needed -
with the HP pump running for a few seconds every time the key was turned to "on"
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