I have a 2000 vx225tlry and as i was changing water pump I noticed on the driveshaft right above where the impeller sits the driveshaft looks like it has been rubbing on something due to being real shinny and the shaft is tappered down. its where the three wave washers sit and the plastic bushing and collar ride.I did have to cut the collar off because i couldn't lift it up the shaft. My question is,has anybody experienced this and what was the cause of the driveshaft to be tappered down?
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v-max 225 drive shaft question
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The drive shaft runs inside of a bushing. That is causing the shiney spot.
Look up inside the mid-section with the lower unit removed and you can see the bushing.
It should be greased each time the lower unit is removed. On a quiet four stroke that bushing can be problematic.
A lathe or similar tool created the taper when the drive shaft was manufactured.
The stainless collar is pressed on. It should have been removed by lifting it on using screwdrivers or a similar tool to force it off.Last edited by boscoe99; 03-26-2014, 06:45 PM.
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I see the taper from the factory this is below that. I don't remember a second taper on the shaft.does anybody have a measurement from say the leading edge of the keyway slot or from the top of the driveshaft to where the taper gets fat again. this one I'm refering to is where the bushing and collar ride. I see rodbolt says thats the way it's made which would be excellent for me, but i also see other senior members stating differently. Does anybody have a pic of a new one that i can compare mine to. I would take pic of mine but I have no clue how to do it.
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boscoe i see your pic and where that sits on the shaft its tappered down looks like maybe the wear plate below the housing for impeller may be rubbing not sure though. i haven't put the new impeller on yet so don't know what lines up with the spot I'm talking about.
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looks like the wave washers may be the culprit. in the manual the say that regular washers and wave washers may not be used.Is it gonna be one or the other or none?What determines which is used? I see in boscoe's picture it appears none are used there. Can I do away with these washers and just try to seat the plastic bushing to the impeller or do I need a regular flat washer to give the plastic a flatter riding surface than being up against the impeller. Also I measured the distance from the leading edge of key slot to beginning of tappered spot and it was 5/16".Sorry for all these replys before responses guys,I'm stressing over possible prblem with drive shaft and only able to work on it for two hours in evenings.thanks for anymore help in advance.
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the ONLY reason that collar and washer assy is there is to keep the shaft from knocking at idle speeds in gear.
leave it out or don't install it properly and you will get a very annoying knock when idleing in gear.
wont hurt anything but in can be very annoying.
all 2 stroke US market V motors used this assy since 1995.
I don't think the TLR model 2 strokes used the bushing in the mid section.
I think your making something simple a bit overly complex.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postthe ONLY reason that collar and washer assy is there is to keep the shaft from knocking at idle speeds in gear.
leave it out or don't install it properly and you will get a very annoying knock when idleing in gear.
wont hurt anything but in can be very annoying.
all 2 stroke US market V motors used this assy since 1995.
I don't think the TLR model 2 strokes used the bushing in the mid section.
I think your making something simple a bit overly complex.
I also agree that the OP seems to be over thinking this matter.
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A mystery to me is why Yamaha continues to use a slotted driveshaft and woodruff key.
On the F350 they went to the Mercury style of impeller drive arrangement. The drive key just falls out. I thought they finally got it. Alas, on later model motors they went back to use of the woodruff key.
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