Anything else I can do Yamaha F150

[Seadude77]

I have a 24' center console with twin 2006 F150 TXR with about 450 hours. This problem came on all the sudden, ran boat one morning and went in for lunch. Came back out for the afternoon and that's when it started. The problem is with the strbd engine. Idles fine (except I notice at startup I notice it only revs up to maybe 800rpm then down to 700 unlike the the port that goes up to 1100 and then falls back to 700 after a few seconds). Engine starts to bog/stumble around 2000rpm when getting on plane. If I ease the strbd engine up it will eventually increase rpms and run same rpm wot as strbd engine. When I run it at the ramp on the trailer it bogs and picks up a little bogs ... It won't die when doing this and when put in neutral runs a little rough for 3-5 seconds then idles smooth at around 750.

What at I have done so far with no change:
Had injectors cleaned by injector rx - they were not dirty
replaced vst filter in tank and f filter on top of vst both clean
swapped injectors between engines
replaced front clear mount filter and blue spin on filter
checked gas tank check valve at tank connection seem fine
replaced fuel line and bulb from tank to engine
ran on a new 3 gallon tank with fresh fuel and new bulb hooked in at clear motor filter
squeezed bulb while motor stumbling with no change
swapped low pressure fuel pumps between engines
change spark plugs
swapped ICV between engines
bought fuel pressure gauge - rail pressure 45 key on, idle 40 and 45 say anywhere above 2000 rpm even while bogging
compression even at 127 on all four

Bought a YDS program and it only shows throttle valve opening in red at -1.3/-1.1 (fluctuates while engine off but while idling sits mainly at -1.1). Compared both motors at idle and 2000rpm (not quite to point of bogging) and numbers are really similar. I think I will compare them while bogging to see if change.

No warning buzzer or codes come on from this. Warning buzzer does work when testing compression.

Any thing else I can check or swap between engines to rule out anything? I don't have the tools to do the link and sync procedure. I have it scheduled to go into the shop just waiting behind other boats as they were backed up about 3 weeks. Would like to solve this in case it ever calms down and we can get out in the gulf.

[fairdeal]

I have a 24' center console with twin 2006 F150 TXR

Bought a YDS program and it only shows throttle valve opening in red at -1.3/-1.1 (fluctuates while engine off but while idling sits mainly at -1.1).
Compared both motors at idle and 2000rpm (not quite to point of bogging) and numbers are really similar.

Both the good running engine, and the problem engine, show TPS values of -1.1 at idle?

[Seadude77]

Good engine (port) was -0.1 at idle. At 2000rpm strbd was 14.5 and port was 12.4

[Seadude77]

These numbers are for throttle valve opening

[Seadude77]

Can a weak wire (maybe rusted or some broken wires) or a chaffed wire that is grounding out cause these symptoms? Mainly the bogging issue but then slowly reaching same wot as good engine. Would this show up anywhere on YDS while bogging? Is there a way to load test a wire to see if good? I remember we had a bad ground wire (I'd had rusted almost in two) coming from engine to battery on an 89 Suzuki 150 and it seems like it would run ok at idle but didn't have power

[rodbolt17]

you already trouble shot it. why not simply fix it?

you CANNOT have a physical angle in a negative range.
the ECU calculates throttle angle based on TPS feedback.
carefully test the input and out put of the TPS and have the link and sync set correctly.
YDIS just TOLD ya that there is an issue. that is why it was highlighted in red.

[Seadude77]

Thanks for the response.

On YDS it shows a range of negative 1 to ninety (-1 - 90) for throttle valve opening unless I am reading it wrong. I agree you can't have a negative angle. The good engine was reading -0.1 for the throttle valve opening. Is there a way I can test the TPS w/o the test harnesses, just a multi meter maybe. And I don't think I can swap the TPS without having to do a link and sync. I don't have the tools to do the link and sync.

[rodbolt17]

cannot help your lack of tools. sometimes if you do not wish to purchase tools it is best to take it to a facility with tools AND trained techs.
I have posted the link and sync procedure on this site multiple times, search a thread by high sierra.
can it be done with nothing more than two paper clips,two jumper leads and a multimeter??????
yep did it that way since 07 when MY F150 had a stalling issue.
I figured it out 3-4 years before Yamaha did.
it is rather embaressing to be wearing a Yamaha master tech ball cap and your stall alarm is going of in the canal.
the sole function of the TPS is to give the ECU an indication of throttle angle(opening).
the YDS just tole ya the ECU is not happy with what it sees.
now you know what subsystem to investigate. it don't get no more stupidly simple than this.
normally YDS just tells me what ghosties I aint gotta chase.

[Seadude77]

Thanks I will check out the link and sync procedure and see what is needed and cost

[Seadude77]

When taking peak voltage according to Yamaha manual at 1500, 3500 rpm is that in gear or in netrual? I guess it is in gear, I don’t think it’s good to idle up that high.

still having same problem, only bogs under heavy load. Other than that runs great. Made two trips thurs and Friday 30 miles Offshore. Ran out both motors 32-3300 rpm and back in 37-3800 no problems. If i bring it up easy bad engine only falls about 200 rpms behind good. If push throttle down hard motor bogs until let up on throttle and ease it up.

If link and sync is off would this cause bogging only under heavy load conditions but still run wot like normal?

[pstephens46]

When taking peak voltage according to Yamaha manual at 1500, 3500 rpm is that in gear or in netrual? I guess it is in gear, I don’t think it’s good to idle up that high.

still having same problem, only bogs under heavy load. Other than that runs great. Made two trips thurs and Friday 30 miles Offshore. Ran out both motors 32-3300 rpm and back in 37-3800 no problems. If i bring it up easy bad engine only falls about 200 rpms behind good. If push throttle down hard motor bogs until let up on throttle and ease it up.

If link and sync is off would this cause bogging only under heavy load conditions but still run wot like normal?

Missing something. Did you try the link/ sync as suggested?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have the latest link and sync as a pdf if you need it. PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send it to you...

[99yam40]

heavy load needs more fuel and timing advance probably .
have you checked to see what timing is during the bogging?

[Seadude77]

Pstephens. Just got a DVA mm and would need a vacume mate gauge I think to do the sync and link. So I have not done that yet. Need to find one I guess.

Townsends. I have 2008 marine technical update on the sync and link. Do you have a more current one? If so ill PM you.

99yam40. Guess I need to get a timing light as well, so haven't checked the timing. Any recommendations a timing light or will any do? When I say heavy load I mean just pushing throttle down at once. Not extra weight etc. if I back it in the boat ramp and run the engine it want get above 2500 and then drops off to mabe 1700. The good engine while on the trailer is strong and gets to about 3400 and holds steady. Fuel pressure is good but timing might not be.

I have a video clip of it bogging at ramp if I can figure out how to post it to help understand better what it's doing.

Any thoughts on checking peak voltage at 3500 rpm? In neutral or in gear?

[pstephens46]

In relation to your original question, “ what can I do”. Not sure... you don’t have the tools. I would say take it to a good Yam shop.