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  • Checking Oil Level

    Sorry for the silly question but sometimes when I check the oil level on my 3.3L four stroke (F250), the dip stick shows it as OVER filled - especially when it is cold.

    Then later, it will show as NOT overfilled.

    Can someone explain (1) why this happens and (2) what the best procedure is to mitigate?

    Thank you,
    Jack
    Grady-White 330 Express

  • #2
    I don't have an F engine, but don't they have a specific way to check the oil? Something like tilting the engine (warmed up) part way up for a few minutes, then back down to perfectly level. And I believe the cross-hatched area is not "full/low" - it is only important that the oil level is somewhere inside the cross hatch. BUT... check you manual to be sure - I'm sure there is info in there (or google).
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #3

      From the 2005 F225 TURD owners manual -

      1. Put the outboard motor in an upright position (not tilted).
      2. Remove dipstick and wipe it clean.
      3. Completely insert the dipstick and remove again.
      4. Check the oil level using the dipstick to be sure the level falls between the upper lower marks.

      From the innerwebz -

      1. TILT your engine fully up and let it sit for a minute or two.

      2. UN-TILT your engine to vertical and let it sit for a minute or two.

      3. THEN, check the oil level using the steps above.

      I only get reliable readings after I perform the tilt routine. No idea why as the explanations offered are all over the map. Take your pick. I love the fact that the useful range is as high as it is.

      Completely drain the oil, remove the filter. Replace filter. Fill your engine using Yam SPEC. Start engine. Stop engine. Check oil. That reading ought to be your baseline reading. Right?
      Last edited by oldmako69; 06-09-2018, 04:29 PM.

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      • #4
        have you ever actually looked at a cylinder block with the oil pan or in this case the crank case cover removed????????
        each cylinder has a corresponding flat machined surface that oil puddles on.
        that is why you tilt it up for a bit.
        moist F motors that are dry stacked or stored on lifts with the motor in the full down [position tend to puff smoke on start up due to the puddled oil runs downhill into the cyl.
        the reason you need to pull and reinsert the stick is that F150 and up use a dipstick tube.
        tilt the motor up and the oil drains from the tube. when tilted back down the cap acts as a stopper and oil cannot reenter the tube.
        take a straw, cap one end with your thumb,stick it in a glass of water, how much water entered said straw????

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        • #5
          I'll buy the Yamaha F150 oil change kit,( filter, 5 quarts of oil, gasket). The drain plug is R&R'ed at every change.

          The engine takes 5.5 quarts of oil. This is both in the owners manual and to get into the 2/3's part of the stick, 5.5 quarts.

          The local parts department will insist it takes 5 quarts (which just barely hits the lowest part of the cross hatch area)..

          Hot or cold checking, I tilt for a couple of minutes, check at level, (small bubble level on the LU) it's the same level every time..
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            I would think there is a little left in the motor when drained if run to warm it up.
            not sure it would be 1 pint but it could be

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            • #7
              Tilt engine up - wait 2 minutes, tilt engine down, wait two minutes then check oil with dipstick.

              "I only get reliable readings after I perform the tilt routine."

              Thank you. I will do this to ensure I get accurate readings as well!
              Grady-White 330 Express

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