Broken bolt help

[Dusky 21]

Ok I took my carbs off to clean them by the way I have a Yamaha 1996 s200txru, while I was putting them back on I broke on of the bolts of. I was wondering how should I go about removing the broken bolt and where I can purchase a new one.

Also besides replacing my fuel pumps, spark plugs what else should I probably do to get it ready for the season. Thanks in advice.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Did you pull the carb back off that has the broken bolt?

Is there any stud sticking out you can grab with a vise grip?

[99yam40]

drill and ease out would be my thoughts.

Us a torque wrench and the manual specs to put the new ones in if you are that heavy handed
Any Yamaha shop/ parts place should be able to get the Yamaha part for you

[FabricGATOR]

stud remover

They make a stud remover. It is like a conical socket set with pretty aggressive reverse threads that grab when going CCW. Use a little PB Blaster, CRC 556, WD40, some kind of penetrant oil to loosen any corrosion. Let it soak. Sometimes I'll give it a shot a couple of times a day when I think of it.

Most people break bolts when removing them.... You, were installing the carb. I assume you were not using a torque wrench to proper specifications?

Your lucky the bolt gave. I think regularly, when overtorquing, that the threads usually pull out of the aluminum/magnesium casting and that is another ball of wax.

These engines have very few bolts if any that have to be diver tight.

Commercial divers are joking said to tighten something (usually with a big subsea hydraulic impact gun) until it strips and then back it off an 1/8th turn!

I suggest you get a factory service manual and a Sears torque wrench $35. Follow the procedures and tighten everything to spec. If you work professionally and to procedure, these supremely engineered machines will perform and be reliable.

If you continue to assume that everything has to be diver tight by your calibrated arm and wrist combination, your going to break, warp, crack, strip things that can get quite expensive and less than reliable.

Now master mechanics, they do this stuff so often and having previous experience with using the torque wrench, they have an innate feel and experience on how to snug a carb and often forgo the torque wrench. I'm not one of them. I use it often. Spark plugs are a common example, I see that often.

[boscoe99]

They make a stud remover. It is like a conical socket set with pretty aggressive reverse threads that grab when going CCW. Use a little PB Blaster, CRC 556, WD40, some kind of penetrant oil to loosen any corrosion. Let it soak. Sometimes I'll give it a shot a couple of times a day when I think of it.

Most people break bolts when removing them.... You, were installing the carb. I assume you were not using a torque wrench to proper specifications?

Your lucky the bolt gave. I think regularly, when overtorquing, that the threads usually pull out of the aluminum/magnesium casting and that is another ball of wax.

These engines have very few bolts if any that have to be diver tight.

Commercial divers are joking said to tighten something (usually with a big subsea hydraulic impact gun) until it strips and then back it off an 1/8th turn!

I suggest you get a factory service manual and a Sears torque wrench $35. Follow the procedures and tighten everything to spec. If you work professionally and to procedure, these supremely engineered machines will perform and be reliable.

If you continue to assume that everything has to be diver tight by your calibrated arm and wrist combination, your going to break, warp, crack, strip things that can get quite expensive and less than reliable.

Now master mechanics, they do this stuff so often and having previous experience with using the torque wrench, they have an innate feel and experience on how to snug a carb and often forgo the torque wrench. I'm not one of them. I use it often. Spark plugs are a common example, I see that often.

A master (or any) aircraft mechanic, tightening a bolt/fastener without a torque wrench, or with a torque wrench that has not been calibrated and certified within the last year, can be fined or lose his license (and his job) for doing this.

Study after study has shown that despite vast amounts of experience, more times than not a fastener will be over tightened if a torque wrench is not used.

It takes no more time to do the job right than to do it wrong than to do it right.