Smell fuel at one cylinder

[Subsurface]

I have a 2004 225hp 4-stroke that has been "making oil", or introducing fuel into the oil reservoir. My mechanic told me to run some Ring-Free+ through the fuel at 5oz/gallon. I did that a few weeks ago and changed the oil. This seems to have slowed the problem, but there is still some smell of fuel on the dipstick, and the level has risen maybe one inch or so in 10 hours of running.

I ran Ring Free+ through it again today, at the same concentration. My thought was that if it slowed the fuel getting into the oil before, maybe this time it will stop it. Basically, I wanted a cheap fix so thought I'd try it one more time.

Today, I noticed a strong fuel smell coming from the upper-most cylinder, port-side. No others smelled. I assume this means fuel is leaking out of it. Is this a major issue? Could this be the reason I'm getting fuel in the oil?

Thank you very much for your help!

[rodbolt17]

some of the more common reasons for making oil.
engine is overpropped, means it cant hit 5800+ RPM with that days LOAD.

engine is overcooling due to stuck thermostats or excessive idleing.

rings are stuck/worn/ cyl walls glazed.

injector is leaking.

[Sequoiha]

if the oil level has risen 1 inch in 10 hours, I would go with a stuck open fuel injector, thats a lot of dang fuel, and I also would not crank the engine again until it is fixed..

[rodbolt17]

and remember, the injector doesn't have to actually leak, a partially clogged/dirty injector tip will create an incorrect spray pattern that wont burn correctly and raw fuel will pass the rings.

[Subsurface]

some of the more common reasons for making oil.
engine is overpropped, means it cant hit 5800+ RPM with that days LOAD.

engine is overcooling due to stuck thermostats or excessive idleing.

rings are stuck/worn/ cyl walls glazed.

injector is leaking.

Rodbolt,
Thank you very much for this information. I think this problem started soon after replacing the lower unit. It is a LH (changed from a RH), so it needed another prop as well. My top rpm is 5300, trimmed up with no load. Would this be enough to cause it to make oil? Is there a test I could do to determine if it is the prop vs. rings or injector? I'm thinking maybe revving it high in neutral for a while. This is a puzzle to me, and I am certainly not a mechanic. Thank you again. Your input is very valuable!

[FabricGATOR]

I have a 2004 225hp 4-stroke that has been "making oil", or introducing fuel into the oil reservoir. My mechanic told me to run some Ring-Free+ through the fuel at 5oz/gallon.

5oz per gallon. Is that a common mechanic recommendation? Seeing that the stuff is so expensive, and directed to use 1oz per ten gallons regularly to inhibit carbon build up...

How about quicksilver powertune for the shade tree user/mechanic or have a Yamaha mechanic perform the dealer only Yamaha decarbon procedure.

Did you dose your 100 gallon plus tank with 500 oz of Ring Free Plus?

[Subsurface]

5oz per gallon. Is that a common mechanic recommendation? Seeing that the stuff is so expensive, and directed to use 1oz per ten gallons regularly to inhibit carbon build up...

How about quicksilver powertune for the shade tree user/mechanic or have a Yamaha mechanic perform the dealer only Yamaha decarbon procedure.

Did you dose your 100 gallon plus tank with 500 oz of Ring Free Plus?

That was what the mechanic recommended as a "shock treatment" with Ring Free. You are right; it is expensive. No, I hooked up a 6 gallon portable tank with Ring Free.

[rodbolt17]

REV UP IN N??
not to be mean but that's about the dumbest thing I have read lately.

leads to the question???? WHY???

its not a very good idea to free wheel a gasoline motor at or near max RPM with no load.
couple that with there is NEVER EVER a diagnostic reason for it and we have your answer.

rather than use up all that ringfree simply make an octopus with 6mmx1mm brake bleed fittings and some tubing and using the vacuum ports on the intake run a 7 dollar can of combustion chamber cleaner through it.

much quicker and way more effective than ring free but still not as good as the dealer only YIES.

ditch all the compression tests, useless as a teat on a boar hog.
have a leakdown test run before and after decarbing.

a leakdown test on a F225 should take a max of 30 min hood off to hood on.
although I have seen techs take 2 hours fighting it.

the prop is either to big or your engine is weak.
the actual casting for both the L and R cases are the same.
only the internal parts are different but the same gear ratio is used.

the easiest way to trouble shoot that F225.
1 leakdown test. if the engine cannot mechanically seal all other efforts are a waste of time and money.
2spark test, can the spark PRODUCING components make spark at the correct voltage level.
3 fuel system test, can the fuel rail maintain 43-45 PSI at all RPM ranges and loads.
doing this test on a flusher is rather stupid.
remember4 stroke EFI uses a MAP sensor.
4 laptop data, this will tell you what the computer sees and how its reacting to its inputs.
rarely will the laptop solve the issue but its great and keeping the easter egg hunt short.