low / high speed pulsar and boat slid off trailer..

[yamaha_mike]

Hi
Is my understanding of the pulsars correct? at low rpm the low speed pulsar coil operates, at higher rpm, the high speed pulsar coil operates?

my question is at what speed does it change from the low speed coil to the high speed coil?

my motor developes a misfire at about 2500-3000rpm, but at rpms higher than around 3500 upwards, its perfect. its also perfect at idle.

I've put in new ignition coils.

also, the boat slid off the trailer (balls up on my behalf) and I chipped the bottom of the fin off the motor. can it be welded back? also the mishap seems to have strained the bushings where the motor pivots to turn left and right. there seems to be extra play. is there a nut I can tighten? or can you buy new bushings/bearings?

thank you for your help

[rodbolt17]

you answer my altenator post and I will answer your post.
deal?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re the skeg, they make "skeg" guards that's bolt to your lower unit. It'll help prevent later shallow water damage too. Just do a search,

ie:

Amazon.com: KEELGUARD SKEGGUARD-ALPHA 1: Sports & Outdoors

Your dealership should have some in stock as well...

[rodbolt17]

I was trying to get a model number.
while no Yamaha uses high and low speed pulser coils SOME V models did use a high and low speed charge coil.
without a model number we cant tell if your motor has pulser coils OR a charge coil.

[yamaha_mike]

Thanks rodbolt,
I will look for your alternator post now

its a "688" series 1992 85hp i dont have the full serial number as the sticker is faded. all i see is 688

you are right, I read my seloc manual again and it is a high and low speed charge coil, although there is a bit of ambiguity in the manual between when they are referring to pulser, or charge..anyway. I am going to do the dynamic test on the charge coil, and ignition coil and will report back.

[99yam40]

get your hands on a Yamaha service manual for your motor instead of after market. Much better in a lot of peoples opinions

Model # should be a C85TLRQ maybe if it is a 1992, at least that is the only 85 listed in parts in 1992 on this site

[rodbolt17]

rather than chunking parts you need to test things.
yes the C85 has high and low speed charge coils.
they are just that.
coils of wire.
it also uses a CDI that synthesizes spark for #3 based on the crank position sensor.
it has two pulser coils.
pulser coils are another name for trigger coils.
quickest way to test is simply a spark tester with a 7/16th gap.
this will test the ign producing components.
a timing light can test ign con*****ing devices.

so charge coils simply supply the operating voltage to the CDI.
pulser coils are the CDI trigger.
on the C85 it also uses the crank position sensor for spark production.

[yamaha_mike]

I checked the spark with a gap of 7/16th (11.1mm). it wouldn't jump.

It could only manage 5/16th (8mm)

Is it really that critical? 5/16 instead of 7/16? Its a nice blue spark at 5/16.

I measured the voltages of all the various circuits and got values a lot lower then spec, but then I realised I need a DVA meter, not just a normal multimeter which was obviously missing the peaks and doing some kinf of RMS averaging. so I cant report back on voltages. yet. any cheap way around this?

I am wondering if the after market ignition coils that I have bought (2 ohm primary resistance instead of 0.2 ohm) could be the problem..

[rodbolt17]

if you suspect ign issues the CDI output needs to be checked AT the failure RPM and load.
you can also test ign timing AT the failure RPM and load.
IF your flywheel isn't marked for all three cylinders make your own index mark.
every 120* of crank rotation brings another piston to TDC

[99yam40]

I am wondering if the after market ignition coils that I have bought (2 ohm primary resistance instead of 0.2 ohm) could be the problem..

Where did you find these after market coils?

If not at same spec as OMC then hard to say if they would work as well.
They do make meters to read the high voltage out puts.

Also with he proper test equipment you and read the voltages Rod is talking about.
Service manual should give specs for cranking speed and others. Loaded(hooked up) and unloaded, so it should show if your coils are affecting the system

[yamaha_mike]

local importer has "made in korea ones".

they are literally 7 times cheaper. primary resitance is 2 ohm. secondary is 6100ohm.

as opposed to yamaha: 0.2 ohms and 4000 ohms respectively.maybe the copper is a little thinner.. but when you buying 3, 7 times cheaper is a big deal.

And! I can still get spark to jump 5/16th.. just not 11/16ths. I'm wondering if its that critical, and/or my problem is else where.

like I said, i get no misfire at higher rpms the ignition coils are running cool, and if I bring it down to idle and punch the throttle, it goes great.

Its only after 20 seconds or so of running at +-2000 rpm that it starts misfiring.. maybe its running too rich and fouling the plug? but then why do I notice the misfire on a strobe light? because I notice the stroble light suddenly flashing intermittantly. surely if its fouling, the strobe will still flash? its just going to ground without sparking?

am I right in saying the more the pilot screw is closed, the richer it becomes? (because it is a air screw??) so fully seated is full rich, and when you open it 1 1/4 turn it leans it out?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Its only after 20 seconds or so of running at +-2000 rpm that it starts misfiring.. maybe its running too rich and fouling the plug? but then why do I notice the misfire on a strobe light? because I notice the stroble light suddenly flashing intermittantly. surely if its fouling, the strobe will still flash? its just going to ground without sparking?

If the strobe timing light is flashing intermittantly, your NOT getting spark, that IS your issue.

That in turn could foul the plugs(which is a result of the spark issue).