Crappy grease used(pics)

[Yamaha3535]

Hi all, the previous owner used some crappy non marine grease into the zerk fittings. It’s all black and cruddy looking and I tried pumping some Yamaha grease in them. Some areas I see the grease spitting out but other areas seemed to be clogged with hardened cruddy grease. Is there anyway to get the old grease out. I’m worried about something g getting damaged. What could get damaged? He used it in every zerk fitting.Any help would be awesome. Thanks guys

[ausnoelm]

Not too sure what part the pictures are, but, the only proper way to get the crap out is pull it to bits, some heat, and piles of new grease might get most of it out, but old grease sets hard as a rock in salt water, don't think it will do any damage as such, but it will get harder and harder over time, until it just won't move anymore.

[ausnoelm]

I think one picture is the end of the trim rod, and the other is the top of the swivel bracket?

[pstephens46]

I saw a video where a guy had a seized steering tube. He removed the zerk fitting and sprayed solvent in the holes. He used a yard type sprayer and maybe paint thinner. Don’t recall but it took awhile.

I would probably keep adding new grease as I used the boat. Hopefully you can get enough “new” grease into the areas to avoid issues.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

First, make a couple of long 2-3' strips of strong rags (maybe 3" wide). The hard areas to get to, wrap the rag around (a full loop), and pull back and forth.
That rag will load up quick with grease.

Loop both below the steering arm and above as WELL as at the LOWER end of the engine where it turns back and forth.

You'll probably do this MANY times and eventually put some gas on the rag (and you'll go thru many rags) and repeat.
That'll help break down the accessible, hardened grease (and half the battle).

As noted above, add some heat with a hair drier or heat gun on low (you don't obviously want to melt/distort anything) while pumping NEW grease into the fitting.

You may want to remove the fitting to make sure that fitting is working / not clogged.

If all the above doesn't work, (I never had it NOT work), shoot some brake cleaner into where the zerk fitting would go. That should help break down the old grease..

[zenoahphobic]

Yes I would use a liquid solvent (not paint thinner except for turps) before trying to force any grease in. There is a minimum length of time between regressing to avoid the grease "solidifying"!
You need the old grease to squeeze out evenly with following fresh grease coming out evenly all round.

[pstephens46]

Yes I would use a liquid solvent (not paint thinner except for turps) before trying to force any grease in. There is a minimum length of time between regressing to avoid the grease "solidifying"!
You need the old grease to squeeze out evenly with following fresh grease coming out evenly all round.

I wouldn’’t use the solvent unless it was very hard to move. Last resort. I wouldn’t blast a bunch of grease in at one time. Just some frequently. Pics don’t indicate an issue IMO. Just cycle the sht through.

[pstephens46]

Post flagged....whatever

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Post flagged....whatever

????

But "Your famous soon", per your "bars"!!

[zenoahphobic]

Cycle grease through, used to be common in automobiles, but grease nipples seemed to be obsolete there.
We also used to have warnings not to overgrease as it deformed the rubber boots. I thought this then stupid because what was said seemed to imply the old grease seemed to disappear without explanation, in manuals.
I always pumped grease guns to displace all the existing grease past the boots/seals, and then squeezed the boot/ seal so that it all came out and the boot/seal resumed its normal position.

[rodbolt17]

and that is where plain go-jo loaded in the grease gun works wonders.