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2002 ox66 200hp tilt cylinder cap removal

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  • 2002 ox66 200hp tilt cylinder cap removal

    Could I or should I try a punch and hammer to loosen cap ? No salt build-up on engine anywhere. Came home fro trip , and a good size spot of hydraulic fluid on concrete. Engine stays up, but I come across skinny water on way home here in the Keys. So I want to put all new seals in. Local Yamaha shops won`t sell special tools . So I can order online and wait , or has anyone had luck with getting cap loose. Have heat gun to heat up top of cylinder, have oxy ,acete. torches. But don`t really want to put flame to paint and coatings.
    Thank to all for help.

  • #2
    Get the proper removal tool. If boats.net won't sell let me know.

    Heat the cylinder with a hot air gun to expand it and maybe chill the cap to shrink it using dry ice to try and break the two parts apart.

    Rodbolt has suggested using a locally made tool (split piece of tubing) that will help hold the removal tool in place to prevent it from backing out of the cap which can damage the cap or the pins on the removal tool.

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    • #3
      Check out Loctite Feeze And Release....spray it on to freeze/shrink parts....should be able to get it at auto parts store...good luck!

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      • #4
        Would only use a punch and hammer if u plan on replacing the cap anyways from salt damage , other than that get a spanner wrench . Don't hit the Rod or you been spending some more of your hard earned cash .

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        • #5
          I'll tell you what..

          I'll tell you what I think.

          I just did mine, they are year 2000. This boats been pretty much docked behind my buddy's house for 11 years.

          For about four days, everytime I would think of it, I would float a little PB Blaster across the cap where it meets the cylinder. PB Blaster is a penetrant oil like people use WD-40. I think it is better than 40 for freeing up stuck stuff.
          I used the tube trick that Rodbolt suggested, and mine came right apart. His suggestion is fabulous.

          These guys gave me all kinds of ribbing and howling about it...."What a waste of PB Blaster" and "Its got a oring seal, if the fluids not coming out what makes you think the PB's gonna get in?"

          Well let me tell you, there is a space above that O-ring that could possibly get salt water intrusion, and adjacent to that, the top of the cap your trying to remove is a lip that also has the possibility to be bound with corrosion.

          I don't know why those hero's were knocking me down for doing that, but it can't hurt and it just might help.

          That cap's not supposed to be diver tight, remember that when you reassemble.

          Just saying.....
          If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

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          • #6
            We were not knocking. We were just correctly telling you it was a waste of time. It is your time and money so waste away as you see fit. If you think it helps then use it. It won't hurt.

            I once was discussing a hard start issue with a Yamaha owner. He swore that the motor would start a bit easier if he used the push to choke mechanism in a certain manner. I could not bring myself to tell him that his model used fuel enrichment to facilitate a cold start, and that the choke wire for his motor was not even connected.

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            • #7
              bought tool

              Bought tool from Sim Yamaha. Replaced seals bled system. Works fine great.

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              • #8
                if it were mine.
                I would use a dam big hammer and an ill fitting punch.
                then I would beat the absolute sheet out of it.
                then I would curse Yamaha and let a mobile mochaik try.
                then I would take it to a real dealership and whine about how much I already spent.

                may need an alternator.

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