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Hi
i own a Yamaha 1998 2 Cycle C115TLRW outboard motor.
i recently purchased some guages one of which is a tachometer. I noticed that any reading above 1200RPM results in a “0 RPM” reading.
I called the manufacturers of the meter, and they said it’s a common issue to do with the engine’s Rectifier /Regulator if the voltage across SND & GND terminals show below 4v and does not increase as the engine is accelerated. After doing a voltage check, sure enough, the voltage was not quite 3.xx and did not increase when accelerated. I then did continuity tests on the regulator/rectifier as suggested by the service manual and came up with confusing results; no continuity results on most tests yet a few on some in an R=1 meter setting as instructed. It was suggested to use an analog multimeter for testing (I guess for accuracy) but mine is digital. Can anyone suggest a sure fire method or alternate procedure to confirm it is or is not a defective Regulator / Rectifier ? I want to be sure before purchasing a new $100 one. Electrical parts usually are not refundable. In fact, it’s possible it may not be my problem at all!
i own a Yamaha 1998 2 Cycle C115TLRW outboard motor.
i recently purchased some guages one of which is a tachometer. I noticed that any reading above 1200RPM results in a “0 RPM” reading.
I called the manufacturers of the meter, and they said it’s a common issue to do with the engine’s Rectifier /Regulator if the voltage across SND & GND terminals show below 4v and does not increase as the engine is accelerated. After doing a voltage check, sure enough, the voltage was not quite 3.xx and did not increase when accelerated. I then did continuity tests on the regulator/rectifier as suggested by the service manual and came up with confusing results; no continuity results on most tests yet a few on some in an R=1 meter setting as instructed. It was suggested to use an analog multimeter for testing (I guess for accuracy) but mine is digital. Can anyone suggest a sure fire method or alternate procedure to confirm it is or is not a defective Regulator / Rectifier ? I want to be sure before purchasing a new $100 one. Electrical parts usually are not refundable. In fact, it’s possible it may not be my problem at all!
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