Multifunction gauge- HELP!

[Jagman246]

Hi, I,ve bought a new(to me) boat with a fuel injected 60HP four stroke.
the serial number is 6C5 L 1016470
The boat is in "as new" condition, done a recorded 90Hrs and has a particularly clean wiring system, no corrosion, all factory connectors, new batteries etc.

The multifunction gauge on the dash looks like a 6Y5-8350T-8???? but there are no labels on it or the loom. The gauge shows rpm, trim and counts hours correctly, but the oil pressure and temp warnings flash continuously as soon as the key is on whether the engine is running or not...

The oil pressure is fine, the engine is not overheating, I have tested the oil pressure switch and it is fine- grounded with no oil pressure, O/C as soon as engine is started...
I have never heard a warning buzzer of any kind...
I'm starting to suspect that the gauge is a new install, and maybe it is the wrong one or is wired with the wrong loom; certainly the colours of the loom do not match the loom in the outboard....

What year is my engine?
Is my engine late enough to need the command link (can bus) gauges?
How can I identify the gauge I have??

There are no labels on the loom or gauge, but I can supply wiring colours if it helps...

Thanks for looking at this,

Peter

[boscoe99]

Yamaha did away with model years in 2005. Here in the US your model identity would be F60TLR if a propeller model or F60TJR if a jet drive model. What country are you in?

There should be a sticker on the side of the model that indicates the date of production e.g. 02/07 which would indicate February 2007.

The serial number that you provided was manufactured for the 2007 production year.

Your motor is Command Link compatible. It will drive CL gauges or it can supply engine data to a chart plotter.

Look at the front of your tachometer. Does it have two buttons or no buttons? Then, look at the back of it. It will have four single wires with bullet connectors on them plus it will have either one or two four pin ivory nylon connectors. How many? One or two?

Let's presume that you have the correct tachometer. It may not be set up correctly. You will have to remove a plug from the back of the tachometer to make sure that it set correctly. Follow this diagram to see if an adjustment needs to be made.

[Jagman246]

Hi, thanks for considering my quandary...
Thanks for the info on production date, I'm in Australia...
Tach has two buttons and two ivory connectors plus the bullets...

Blue/White; Green/White; Green/Red; White/Red

Back/White; Pink; Grey; Orange

I checked the dip switches and they are in the correct positions...

I'm a qualified Audi technician and have access to all kinds of tools, can I check that the ECU grounds/opens certain wires in response to oil pressure and no overheat?
Can someone supply a schematic?

Thank You Thank You,
Peter

[boscoe99]

What does the data plate on the right hand side of the motor says for the production month and year?

The tachometer you have is designed for 2004 and earlier model Yamaha's. The tachometer was changed for 2005 and later model motors such that is has but one four pin nylon connector.

Disconnect your tachometer from the trim/oil harness at the two four pin connectors. Turn the key switch to the on position. All of the LCD segments should illuminate momentarily and then most will go away. Do the oil and temp icons still flash or are they invisible? Start the motor. Do the icons flash or stay invisible?

If your tachometer has two four pin connectors then probably the trim/oil harness will as well. Check that harness at the motor end. How many connectors are attached to an engine wire harness connector?

Yamaha sometimes/oftentimes changes wire colours across a connector. Who in the hell knows why? Strange but true.

The only wire colours used in the trim/oil harness for a 2005 and later Yamaha are pink for trim, gray for over temp and green with a red tracer for low oil pressure.

[Jagman246]

Hi boscoe99,
with the 2x four pin connectors disconnected- all the gauge segments illuminate as a self test then the oil/temp warnings disappear.
When I start the engine. neither of the two segments illuminate.
If I earth the oil switch and start the engine (the tach is still not connected), the warning buzzer sounds after (about) 30 seconds...

There are 2x nylon 4-pin connectors on the trim harness in the motor cowling, both these connectors are plugged into corresponding plugs in the loom on the engine.
The pink and black on one are connected to pink and black on trim sensor; the grey and the orange are plugged.
The Blue/White; Green/White; Green/Red; White/Red on the other plug are connected to a plug that has all pink wires with various tracer colours as below...

Blue/W _ plugged into Pink/Black
Green/W -plugged into second Pink/Black
Green/R - Pink/White
White/R - Pink

Thanks For Helping Me boscoe99!

[boscoe99]

What does the data plate show as the year of manufacture?

[Jagman246]

I'm sorry boscoe99, there is no data plate or Year of Manufacture Plate anywhere on the outboard or bracket.

The decal you refer to is shown on page 2 in the USA edition of the owners manual- 6C1-28199-13
The decal is not mentioned in the handbook that was supplied with my outboard- 6C1-28199-22-E0, maybe it's not fitted to Australian Models?

I found an identical (2006 edition- like mine) factory manual on the web: http://www.discount-marine.com/club/...1-28199-22.pdf

[boscoe99]

I'm sorry boscoe99, there is no data plate or Year of Manufacture Plate anywhere on the outboard or bracket.

The decal you refer to is shown on page 2 in the USA edition of the owners manual- 6C1-28199-13
The decal is not mentioned in the handbook that was supplied with my outboard- 6C1-28199-22-E0, maybe it's not fitted to Australian Models?

I found an identical (2006 edition- like mine) factory manual on the web: http://www.discount-marine.com/club/...1-28199-22.pdf

I sent you a PM.

[almetelo]

That motor was manufactured in 2007 just for JaPaN market acording my files.
Until S/N 1016449 that model was manufactured for EU and JPN as F60CET and US/CAN as F60TJR

[Jagman246]

Solved Warning Issue - Question Remains

I sent you a PM.

Hi Everyone, Hi Boscoe99

Wiring problem solved with your great assistance boscoe99.
Second battery and isolator fitted about 3 months before boat put onto market. I cant help wondering if the previous owner spent $$$ trying to solve this new introduced fault and sold the boat in frustration???
Anyway all good now, with two questions remaining...

1/
I tested all three warnings I could introduce following advice from this site- earth oil pressure switch, 220 ohm overtemp sensor, bridge water separator float switch...
They all sound the buzzer and the oil/overheat illuminate the appropriate segment, but the oil pressure warning seems very intermittent. Yesterday I couldn't sound the buzzer or visual warning at all and I gave up. Today it eventually sounded after 4 minutes running and at the last test it took 2 minutes at 1300 rpm to sound...
Is it usual for the oil warning to be a bit "temperamental" in this way???

2/
There are several (3?) bleed holes in the lower unit that all piddle water out when running the engine on "ear muffs". I assume this is normal, not an indication of poor water pump seals/gaskets???


Kind regards to you and this excellent forum...

[rodbolt17]

the oil alarm is funny, I am surprised you got it to work at all below about 2000 RPM.

if boscoe could post the page out of the 2007 marine technical guide, page 2-2, it would explain a bit more.

on some EFI 4 strokes once you set the temp switch failure the temp switch alarm may or may not work unless the code is cleared using YDIS.

what we have found in practical real life is that some of the smaller Yamaha four strokes the oil control wont activate unless the RPM is run up to about 2000 RPM at least once during that key cycle.

this is for US market stuff, not so sure about non US market stuff.

[Jagman246]

thanks rodbolt, the alarm worked at 700rpm the first time I tested it (last week)
Do you know, does the ecu use hard or soft memory?
I guess what I'm asking is: if I isolate battery power for a few hours, will the fault codes be lost by the ecu, and then the alarms work as expected?

peter

[rodbolt17]

book says yes temp alarm must be cleared with YDIS.
NONE of the US market ECU's will clear(reset) by simply removing battery power.

this aint the automotive world.

we will see if boscoe can post a pic of that page.
I cant from home.

[boscoe99]

As Rod notes, the oil warning system is peculiar in that a number of variables are used to activate the alarm. It is temperature and time related. Therefore, it is difficult to get the same results between two tests because the two variables (maybe there are more we don't know about) are changing from one test to the next.

Here is the chart he refers to:

[99yam40]

what does the "temp oil control is activated after 3 minutes 45 seconds when RPM exceeds 1000 rpm" mean?

Is it temperature and oil alarm system becomes active?
Or temporary oil alarm(control) ,maybe?

Just curious