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  • #46
    [QUOTE=rodbolt17;n206224]grab that easy out, your mokanick needs shoes.
    best thing to do with an easy out is the same as with a tube of silly cone seal.
    head for the bow and throw it as hard as you can.
    QUOTE]

    The Easy Out worked fine. Just don't over torque it.. Saved $100 for a new chair... Or new shoe's..

    Same as R&Ring an oil drain bolt. It's NOT rocket science...
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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    • #47
      problem with an easy out is once you drill that AL plug,tap in the easy out and apply pressure and you just swelled the plug threads jamming it even tighter.
      myself I would use my 1/2" drive hand impact,oxy/acytylene and the correct sized bit.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
        problem with an easy out is once you drill that AL plug,tap in the easy out and apply pressure and you just swelled the plug threads jamming it even tighter.
        myself I would use my 1/2" drive hand impact,oxy/acytylene and the correct sized bit.
        This one came out real easy. Pulled another bolt to buy a new correct size SS bolt, that bolt was bent slightly!! Cheapo SS...

        The chair was powder coated and they really didn't want me destroying the frame...

        Came right out- Of course the chair sits outside BUT isn't part of a salt water used engine which will make things much more difficult....

        New bolt fit normally, no sloppiness...
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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        • #49
          The advice on use of Easyout is go Easy, because once they snap you have hardened steel jammed that cannot be drilled out.

          Speaking from experience learnt many decades ago trying to remove a stuck oil pressure switch in a car engine block. Guess what, the engine had to be taken out and stripped down, to get access and to clean out fragments in the oil gallery..

          The only way to get the broken bit out was to crack it carefully into bits with a fine fashioned steel chisel.

          Trouble is determining what the maximum torque is before they shatter!, Only good for lightly stuck broken off bolts!!!

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          • #50
            actually, I have a welder buddy that will weld a stick to the crappy out and I can remove it.
            cost 100 buckolas. I use him fairly often.
            however I only have about 40 some odd years of doing this type of work.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
              actually, I have a welder buddy that will weld a stick to the crappy out and I can remove it.
              cost 100 buckolas. I use him fairly often.
              however I only have about 40 some odd years of doing this type of work.
              What kind of machine does he use to weld a stick to a crappy out?

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              • #52
                Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post

                What kind of machine does he use to weld a stick to a crappy out?
                And of course needs the skill of a brain surgeon not to weld the whole area together creating an even harder job to re-tap into that hard weld!

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by zenoahphobic View Post

                  And of course needs the skill of a brain surgeon not to weld the whole area together creating an even harder job to re-tap into that hard weld!
                  I think RB's talking about welding a rod to the actual valve that doesn't want to come out.

                  Now you'd have something to grab. A Mig welder could easily weld the two together W/O touching the UNIT itself.
                  Scott
                  1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

                    I think RB's talking about welding a rod to the actual valve that doesn't want to come out.

                    Now you'd have something to grab. A Mig welder could easily weld the two together W/O touching the UNIT itself.
                    I am thinking a stick would just catch on fire and burn up
                    and not stick to a valve, crappy out, or eaze out

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                    • #55
                      it is actually a stick made for welding on studs,broken bolts and such. the flux flows into any thread and prevents weld splatter from sticking. draw back is the rod is 80 bucks a pound.
                      I have watched him take trim tab bolts out of v4/v6 jonny/rudes one thread at a time.
                      I watched him take out 3 broken easy outs and 6 broken headbolts from a Suzuki 40.
                      you build up the weld on the broken part then weld a stainless nut to the weld.
                      most times the heat of the welder aides in breaking the thread loose.

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                        it is actually a stick made for welding on studs,broken bolts and such. the flux flows into any thread and prevents weld splatter from sticking. draw back is the rod is 80 bucks a pound.
                        I have watched him take trim tab bolts out of v4/v6 jonny/rudes one thread at a time.
                        I watched him take out 3 broken easy outs and 6 broken headbolts from a Suzuki 40.
                        you build up the weld on the broken part then weld a stainless nut to the weld.
                        most times the heat of the welder aides in breaking the thread loose.
                        Sounds like an arc welder and the "stick" IS the rod. Or is it a wire feed welder (MIG)? Or gas welding (with the flux)?

                        Just curious..
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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