Where to drill casing to access driveshaft/crank? OX66 250HP

[DennisG01]

Not sure if I am reading this correctly. The only cutting I have seen is between the lower and midsection. You at least have to have a gap between the two wide enough to slide the blade. Are you asking if it is to be cut at the top next to engine pan? Did you look at the Instagram site I posted. Google "strictlyyamaha" You can see some pics there.

Yes, thank you for that link, previously. I did see that. That is certainly one possibility (IF I can get enough of a gap). If I understood Rodbolt correctly, and the area that Boscoe had referred to as being able to see the driveshaft, there is also a possibility of cutting the driveshaft from the front of the engine - basically where the steering arm is.

For what it's worth, I don't have an engine pan... assuming you are referring to an "oil pan"? I have a 2-stroke.

My most recent question was just that if a sawzall can get to the driveshaft from the steering arm area of the engine, then I should be able to get to that area with an extended "spray straw" for the pentrating fluid?

[boscoe99]

Engine pan is another term for the bottom cowling.

Yes, a bent curved plastic straw might be used to get penetrating oil to the crank shaft. How effective it will be is anyone's best guess. The crank shaft will be right up above where the drive shaft can be seen when inspecting the motor at the engine mount and tiller arm area.

[DennisG01]

Thank you, Boscoe, that clears things up for me. Thanks for the "pan" term definition, too. It'll be a couple months till I get to the boat, but I will post back.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I understand RB to be cutting in the area of the tiller arm (high up).

Dennis, I would check that area first and squirt fluid up there...

I would think, if you had to cut the shaft, cutting it (if possible). way further down(by the WP) would be better.

You can tap threads into the shaft, and pull the shaft from there (using the mid section) VS pulling the engine from the mid section just to get it on a bench (to do the same thing).

[boscoe99]

The problem with cutting down below is that you will cut the water pump, water pump tube, shift shaft or shift rod and goodness knows whatever else. Assuming you can get the lower to go down by at least the width of the saw blade. So much easier to simply cut up above were there is access to the drive shaft. Only the drive shaft then gets cut.

[pstephens46]

The problem with cutting down below is that you will cut the water pump, water pump tube, shift shaft or shift rod and goodness knows whatever else. Assuming you can get the lower to go down by at least the width of the saw blade. So much easier to simply cut up above were there is access to the drive shaft. Only the drive shaft then gets cut.

But then you have no choice but to remove the powerhead to remove the remaining stub. You stand a good chance cutting below of getting the splined end without powerhead removal. Granted the water pump will be wrecked in the process. Or move up to the spacer in mid section, if there is one on motor. I have never done it. WTH do I know?

[boscoe99]

In the scheme of things, removing a two stroke power head is a piece of cake. About 20 minutes time will do it. There is a reason that rodnut does it the way that he does.

[pstephens46]

I'm simply typing. As a means of procrastination.

I have a flat trailer tire back at storage yard. Nothing is easy.

and I have as many bars as the sagely Roscoe!