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  • #16
    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
    and the DUMBEST part of the water detect????

    it wont work if the engine is in gear.
    only in N.
    it used to but about 2005 they changed it.
    Really???? that stinks....

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    • #17
      Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
      Contrarian view here regarding the two micron Racor filter.

      I use one but mine is equipped with a vacuum gauge. That way I can easily see if and when it gets to the point that it needs to be removed and replaced.

      In my case, the vacuum gauge has more than paid for itself in the number of filters (two micron or ten micron types) that it has saved me from replacing unnecessarily.

      I wonder how many filters two/ten micron filters get thrown away, when changed on a time or calendar basis, when they are in perfectly good condition?

      Some diesel trucks use a vacuum gauge to indicate when an air filter needs to be replaced or cleaned. For some reason, this has never made its way to the fuel system within our motors. Yamaha puts a water detection system in the fuel filter bowl but conveniently forgets to monitor the filter itself.

      Oh, that would reduce their filter sales I suppose.
      Do you know what brand or part# vacuum gauge you are using...I might give it a try....you just connect it to an open port on the filter head?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by tidelee10 View Post
        Do you know what brand or part# vacuum gauge you are using...I might give it a try....you just connect it to an open port on the filter head?
        Almost any vacuum gauge will work. I started with one from an auto parts store. A T fitting is added to the Racor outlet and the gauge is attached to the T. Fuel in one T port, out the second T port with the gauge being attached to the middle third T port. Mount the T fitting so that the gauge fitting is up. Most filter heads have a second outlet port and a gauge could be attached there.

        Problem with the gauge at the filter is that someone had to run the boat at WOT while I opened a hatch to view the gauge. Not as convenient as I wanted, but it was not like it needed to be checked more than every six months or so.

        I then installed a Racor gauge up near the helm with a sense line running to the T fitting outlet. It worked well but I did not like the Racor gauge. Too small. It was a full scale gauge and I was only concerned with the first 6 or so inches of Mercury.

        I finally went with an electronic vacuum gauge in place of the Racor gauge. The electronic gauge has a pressure sensor which was mounted on the back side of the helm panel where the gauge was attached. A sense line then ran to the hose barb on the T fitting. It worked extremely well.

        Here is a photo showing the Racor.

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        • #19
          Really nice! I'll go ahead with this...
          Can you tell +/- the values in the gauge for a good shape filter and with what values must the filter be replaced?

          Thanks!

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          • #20
            You would need to see what it runs normally with clean filter, then when you see it change it would be time to have a look at it.

            Just be careful where you run any tubing that has any fuel in it as a leak could cause a fire.

            A pressure differential gauge would work also, hooked to both sides of filter to see when it starts plugging the differential will get higher.

            Might even hook up a pressure switch to it so it would set off a remote alarm.
            That way no tubing run all over the place just wiring.

            But if Yamaha does not recommend a 2 then you do at your own risk, too restrictive could cause problems I guess

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            • #21
              as long as fuel system vacuum AT the lift pump intake stays below 4" HG, 200HP and lower or 6"Hg F200,all 3.1L and 3.3L your ok.
              typically a clean 90GPH 10 micron filter will drop about 1"Hg.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by almetelo View Post
                Really nice! I'll go ahead with this...
                Can you tell +/- the values in the gauge for a good shape filter and with what values must the filter be replaced?

                Thanks!
                Here's a chart that shows the maximum values, depending upon engine size.

                My belief is that Yamaha does not recommend a two micron filter size since they do not offer one. And in fairness to them, I suppose they feel their ten micron will do the job just fine. Unfortunately, it apparently does not for a number of folks. Those folks are then stuck with a fuel system repair tab since debris in the fuel system is not a warrantable issue.

                With a gauge you can always tell the condition of your filter at any time. I would run the motor at WOT (good time for a propeller pitch check as well) to obtain the vacuum reading. Change it when needed. You might just find that the filter will need to be replaced due to corrosion before it will become restricted to the point that it needs to be replaced.

                Another thing about having a vacuum gauge installed is that it will monitor more than just the filter. It will let you know if anything else is amiss, all the way back to the tank vent. Restricted vent, kinked fuel hose, hose failing internally, fuel pick up tube screen clogged, failing anti-siphon valve, etc. may also show up as a high vacuum reading.

                Last edited by boscoe99; 12-27-2013, 11:22 AM.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                  You would need to see what it runs normally with clean filter, then when you see it change it would be time to have a look at it.

                  Just be careful where you run any tubing that has any fuel in it as a leak could cause a fire.

                  A pressure differential gauge would work also, hooked to both sides of filter to see when it starts plugging the differential will get higher.

                  Might even hook up a pressure switch to it so it would set off a remote alarm.
                  That way no tubing run all over the place just wiring.

                  But if Yamaha does not recommend a 2 then you do at your own risk, too restrictive could cause problems I guess
                  Another great idea. Could be an audible alarm or just an LED on the dash that lights up if and when a vacuum switch were to close at some particular set point. If installed downstream from the primary filter it would then motor the fuel system for vacuum from that point all the way back to the tank. Better monitoring.

                  Yam used to have a water in fuel warning icon on earlier versions of their multi-function display. Again, in their infinite wisdom they removed that feature. Anyway, a pressure switch could be tapped into the trim/oil harness wire to light up that icon.

                  Lots of ways to offer better system monitoring but Yam seems to be stuck in the past. Hell, they regress in some instances instead of moving forward, ala silencing the water in fuel warning horn when the throttle is in gear. If I am motoring around and I have water in my fuel filter cup I want to know about it.

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                  • #24
                    oh you will definantly know you have water in the fuel system cause it will shut down.

                    you just wont know it until either you shift to N or its shuts down.

                    doesn't help the guy heading 26 miles out to fish the gulf stream and his fuel vent clam shell is feeding water into the vent.

                    and it happens on a few of the custom boats built around here.

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