Lower Unit carrier question

[99yam40]

there are o rings around the carrier that seal it to the lower unit casing that need to be replaced also not just the shaft seals

[pstephens46]

Why repaint? AL and Yam paint color are pretty close. They blend well together.

[99yam40]

If I was to paint my skeg ,the paint would dissapear the next time I run out onto the flats. So I do not repaint

[driver27]

Ok an update since yesterday. Carrier successfully removed. Did not have to resort to heat or a slide hammer, just a beefy enough puller.
Exactly as Rodbolt said, there is some fairly minor pitting near lower o ring.. Going to clean it super good tonight and do some minor sanding and chromate painting. From there I will evaluate how deep pits are and may try the jb weld or similar approach. Any success with other types of sealant? Thanks for everybody's input on this ordeal.

[Soundear]

I just joined this group as I was searching the web for a solution to my bearing carrier problem. I have a 1998 C115TLRW and after a pressure test, noticed leakage around the lower unit bearing case seals. So..... I split my claw nut but only after a few days of trying to remove it, and now am stuck with trying to pull the bearing carrier out. I soaked the area now for the three weeks I’ve been trying to remove the carrier. (I’m a weekend warrior) I bought some 1/2” circle hooks w/nuts and found 2 3” pre-drilled trailer axel plates. I cut the circle hooks into “J” hooks; used the axel plates as the center point for the prop shaft to create my own puller and began to tighten nuts alternating 2-3 rotations per. I keep straightening out the “J” hooks! So.... I bought a propane torch- measured the carrier band locations and with a magic marker, traced a visual set of left/right carrier bands on top and bottom of the outer case so I knew where to heat. I used: release agent, a rubber hammer and heat in a variety of ways to hopefully release the carrier...I did hear some pops..... but no release.
Questions:
*The key at the bottom of the carrier is to remain in... correct?
*I realize I must change both seals and “o” ring- is it advisable to change bearings as well?
*Is the heat affecting any other parts I should inspect before eventual re-assembly?
*Am I to assume that in time - continuing the process I am doing - it will eventually release?
(wasn’t it Einstein that said something along the lines of “Expecting different results after repeating the same process is a sign of insanity” ?
I’ve read most all of the posts on this topic - I just want to be sure with my 1998 C-115, there is no alternate or better way to approach this without potentially creating damage elsewhere!
Suggestions??

[panasonic]

You have the service manual?

Brute force and ignorance is required if it is corroded in.

Have you got new hooks made up? The plates and the hooks need to be very strong and stiff as you maybe just stretching or bending them.

Can you post a pic of the setup?

[Soundear]

Yes, I do have the Service manual for that motor (Lit 186-16). It's always my first "go to" approach before looking in my Clymer Service book for additional suggestions. I've been getting a bit more aggressive each day I try to remove it - but careful not to break anything or create more damage. In searching for solutions to find an alternative to the Yamaha Puller for $200, i found a YouTube video of someone who built a puller from 2 -12" eye hooks and flat stock purchased at Home Depot. It costs $9.50 to build! I used the Depot Chain cutter to cut an inch or so off of the closed loop side enough that I could hook it under the left & right carrier "web" between the center of the carrier and outer ring. Although I can not access the motor for a photo now, I took a snapshot of the exact setup I copied from that video I found. I chose to put 2- 1/2" x 4" trailer axel plates with 2 holes drilled 3" apart dead center instead of what is pictured. I can certainly post an actual photo if need be........ but it's otherwise virtually identical! If I tighten down on each side, the hooks straighten out eventually and finally bend BOTH axel plates into a bow. That's a lotta force! - are you suggesting maybe not enough? i soaked it in "Blaster" release agent for many days - under puller force just prior to hook straightening - and made a few attempts to first apply heat, let cool, use rubber hammer, apply more heat, hammer while hot - then tried to pull carrier when case was cool and hot and still no apparent movement whatsoever.

C115 TLRW Loer Unit.jpg

[fairdeal]

looks like this is the answer:

trust me the easy way is with the tool and slide hammer with oxy/acetylene and removing the shift shaft.

repainting ?? yep. if you did not fry the paint you ain't got heat.

[rodbolt17]

buy the left hand case xslide hammer adapter. remove the shift shaft6 .
get a real heat soruce.
propane will never get it hot enough. map most likely wont if it is in salt or brackish.
pull the shaft and carrier together.
I have been doing it here in the salt pond about 30 yrs. you don't think I ever deal with stuck carriers?

[walleye1]

Use dis

[walleye1]

Lower Bearing Carrier Puller, Yamaha, Mercury, Evinrude, Johnson

[pstephens46]

buy the left hand case xslide hammer adapter. remove the shift shaft6 .
get a real heat soruce.
propane will never get it hot enough. map most likely wont if it is in salt or brackish.
pull the shaft and carrier together.
I have been doing it here in the salt pond about 30 yrs. you don't think I ever deal with stuck carriers?

Me? I wish Rodbolt would shoot a video of this technique. I fear I would smoke that AL with a Oxy torch. The art is how to heat that lower. Forget the paint......

I vote for a road trip. Hell, most of you guys are retired anyway.

[rodbolt17]

if it was hard I would be doing something else.
remember your trying to heat a heat sink.
keep the flame moving and your golden.

[Soundear]

Yea! That is the magic puller! At a magical price of $200
if that’s the only tool that works.... then it’s worth it. From the great advice I’ve received from you all, I summed up the best approach as suggested by RodBolt17: pull that shift arm and apply the correct heat. The issue is, I’m no torch expert - or marine mechanic- but quite handy with most mechanical applications. I’d like to know more about how to approach heating it correctly. Until then, I’m considering carrying the prop shaft / carrier in to a professional to heat correctly. A cracked or damaged lower unit caused by my ignorance would send me jumping off my local bridge! I’ll follow up with my outcome when I finally complete this nightmare! Thanks to everybody for your great advice and guidance!!

[walleye1]

Rent one from o'reilly's. perty simple to do. Hose the inside down with pentrating oil let it soak a day.