NO Power to Oil Tank - 2 stroke 2004 SX200TXRC

[Junglejim03]

The 3 gallon "sub oil tank" (main oil tank) is not supplying oil to the reserve tank on the motor.
I have replaced the pump on the tank assembly. Will run and pump oil with power applied directly to the pump itself.

I the "sub oil tank" level guage failed years ago... I have that loop wired back to itself. Just does not alarm on low level in 3 gallon tank. this has worked for years.

The level sensor on the motor will alarm if low level is detected in reserve tank on motor.
I "assume" this means the level instrument is operating correctly.

If I activate the switch on the rear of motor, which manually supplies power to the pump... it still does not turn on pump in tank.

My gut tells me the wiring from the motor to pump has failed.
I would like to create the correct conditions to test if 12volts is getting to this harness.
? KEY ON... USE MANUAL SWITCH... check brown and blue wires in harness for power?

attached is wiring diagram marked with the wiring i am dealing with.



Oil pump.JPG

[boscoe99]

With the key on, jumper the oil pump to the engine harness connector. With the key on and toggle switch pressed does the pump operate normally? If so, the trim/oil harness is defective.

Alternately, you can connect a low wattage lamp to the brown and blue wires that supply power and ground to the pump. With the key on and the toggle switch pressed, does the lamp illuminate normally?

It is not uncommon for the harness from the boat to the remote tank to fail. Connectors or wiring. Positive feed (yellow then brown wire) or the ground (blue wire).

[Junglejim03]

thanks.. that is pretty much how i read the wiring diagram...
I am pretty sure you are correct on the harness failing.
from the tank... where you show test lamp... i have taken directly to battery... joy...

When i remove / pull out the reserve level guage... alarms sounds... assume this means level sensor is reading.... low level does not power pump...
power demand is requested either on low level on reserve.... or manual switch correct?
currently if level guage on reserve tank on motor is pulled... alarm sounds... pump does not run.
this is a second test in cause the switch is no longer running... or a substitute...?

[Junglejim03]

Gees... BTW... Yamaha wants around $125 for that 4 pin connector and wiring harness...
E bay has it for $55... gees oh Pete's...

I think I will just butt splice in new wiring... 12 inches from each end... the middle section that is most likely to be fried. the brown i believe is showing the copper as being "browned" like water has penetrated the insulation...

[boscoe99]

thanks.. that is pretty much how i read the wiring diagram...
I am pretty sure you are correct on the harness failing.
from the tank... where you show test lamp... i have taken directly to battery... joy...

When i remove / pull out the reserve level guage... alarms sounds... assume this means level sensor is reading.... low level does not power pump...
power demand is requested either on low level on reserve.... or manual switch correct?
currently if level guage on reserve tank on motor is pulled... alarm sounds... pump does not run.
this is a second test in cause the switch is no longer running... or a substitute...?

The engine mounted tank is the main tank. The boat mounted tank is the supply/reserve tank.

The alarm will only sound when the float is down in the main engine mounted tank. A low float in the reserve/remote tank will not activate an alarm. It will however provide notice of it being low if a Yamaha multi-funtion tachometer is being used.

The pump is powered (has 12 volts) any time the key is turned on. A ground is applied to operate the pump. Either the CDI/ECU applies the ground or the toggle switch applies the ground.

If the ground cannot get to the pump (wiring issue) or if power (voltage) cannot get to the pump the pump will not operate. If the pump is known to be good the problem usually (not always) is a wiring issue.

And you cannot simply use a voltmeter to verify if adequate power is getting to the pump. Google "voltage drop". Which results from defective wiring.

[rodbolt17]

took longer to read this than it should take to trouble shoot it.
if the tach indicate on the far right is on circuit SWB is good.
now does the pump have 12V positive at key on?
does the ground path work when the manual switch is depressed?
bam. I got it.
however I don't have to google how to do a voltage drop[. but I will second the motion you google it.
it is an incredibly simple system that whoops a lot of techs.

[99yam40]

I am sure most of his oil system indicators do not work,
he already said he loop wired some of it

[rodbolt17]

when you loop the black to the black/red at the remote tank it acts like SWB is closed,allowing auto transfer IF the engine is running.(95 and up V6)
the manual switch will operate the pump regaurdless.
in this case we have either lost the 12+ to the pump or we lost the return(ground) path. can be tested in less time than it took to read this thread.

[boscoe99]

Stupidly simple system is it not?

[Junglejim03]

No kidding it is simple...
Sorry... I like to VERIFY with the EXPERTs
that I am correct on my testing...

power to pump up to first butt splice in four wire cable back to pump...
wiring to boat is broken somewhere.. and be replaced... (14 years old)

this is past all Yamaha connectors... so definitely boat wiring...

THANKS GUYS

[rodbolt17]

only no boat wiring connects to it. you have a 4 pin Yamaha harness between the engine and the remote tank.
yes it is a simple 4 switch DC motor circuit.
just like a light switch. so yea stupidly simple yet many techs wipe out on that section of the master tech exam.
funny thing is the system will trouble shoot itself if you look at it.\
ditch the splices. buy a correct harness after careful testing if needed.

[walleye1]

If you work on it once a month you will remember it, un like me i may see one once every two years.
Yamaha makes alot of goofy changes.

[rodbolt17]

I have not worked on PBS in six months or better.
I have memorized the systems and the various subsystems however.
couple that with the fact only 4 switchs are involved and it is a simple DC circuit it aint hard.
helps that I have had more training and electronics training and used that training more than most folks posting.

[Junglejim03]

THANKS EVERYONE.

Post seemed stupid. Simple wiring. Thanks everyone for the input. I question myself... even when I am absolutely correct.
Just as Rodbolt comments... there are FOUR switches... not just two involved

LOWES actually has Yamaha Parts... LOL... 10' of RO 3 conductor #16 fixed the issue. All connections within engine cowling
Butt spliced Yellow and Blue 12" from pin connector, ran new wire to bullet connectors on pump. butt spliced the level gauge out of the picture at this point (12" from connector....
Feed back loop for empty 3 Gallon tank a bit much... I keep 2-3 gallons of oil spare... check everytime I fill up visually... alarm and engine dropping to 2000 rpm reminds me i forgot to do it.

FIXED....

[boscoe99]

Of the four switches, only two are involved in transferring oil. Of the other two, one is used just to stop the transfer of oil and one is used just to sound the alarm.

Glad you got it fixed.

The remote tank sensor is just a convenience. If one is willing to carry oil with them at all times and does not mind the motor setting an alarm and going into RPM reduction mode when the main tank runs dry, such as you do, it is not really needed. In fact, this is the situation with those models that only use one tank that is mounted on the motor.