1998 yamaha 115 hp false rpm causing rpm reducer to kick in?

[CHEWBAKA1973]

Do you flush the engine with fresh water when done (I'm assuming your using it in salt water (Tampa Bay)? Preferably on the muffs?

My neigbors 200, 2 stroke had what turned out to be an overheat issue.

Engine hit approx 3,800 RPM, then shut down RPM's. His buzzer worked but you could barely hear it (he couldn't). Always pissed well, installed new water pump, one thermostat was sticking. Got the RPM's higher (about 4,000) but the engine still did the same, just at a higher RPM.

Eventually pulled the heads, the corrosion, next to the cylinders and on the head and in the water jacket was really bad..(He was one NOT to flush often). The salt build up was about 4" deep, especially on the lower water jackets. I honestly don't know how that engine ran as 90% of the water to the lower cylinders was closed off due to salt (SW Florida)...

After much scraping, picking, etc, it was re-assembled and ran like new. Full throttle , no problem!!!

I flush the engine for 10-15 mins after every use in saltwater. However i only purchased this engine a few months ago and have no idea how well it was maintained before. From the looks of it not so good.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That was the same situation with his engine besides him rarely flushing his. Your picture was about the same as his. His was alot worse once you got the head off...

Just as a side note, we really didn't have any issues doing the job (the shop wanted about $700 for his V6), make sure you have an accurate torque wrench, the torque sequence should be actually numbered on the head (very convieniant).

Besides cleaning the block holes/threads out VERY WELL and run an oiled bolt thru each for an accurate torque reading later. I snuck up on the final torque #'s in more steps than the manual called for (took a little longer but worth it IMHO).

A soon as I make it to the dock, the hose is on the powerhead hose port immediatly. I then run it on the muffs to make sure the thermostats open and everything is flushed. I'll also flush the pitot tube on the front of the lower unit (with a washer machine hose, cut down, with one end a sharp "V" to fit over the LU). That hole is so small, its not to clog it up with salt. NO issues with the speedometer since I began that routine..

Good luck..

[CHEWBAKA1973]

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th19434.html

Good read on this thread on his 115

Found some written instructions.
http://pacificmarineproducts.com/PDFs/outboardflush.pdf

[99yam40]

Found some written instructions.
http://pacificmarineproducts.com/PDFs/outboardflush.pdf

Let us know if you try it and how it works.

Seems it would be a good idea to hook a small hose to the tell tall outlet either at the exit of block or the plastic outlet on lower cowling or pan(what ever you call it) to direct the flow to the bucket.

They do recommend removing stats and anodes 1st but like he said in the other thread the anodes may not be an easy thing to do and he did not do it.

before going forward,
Have you verified that the overheat is what the problem is?
Have you isolated it to which head overheat switch is coming in?

[CHEWBAKA1973]

Let us know if you try it and how it works.

Seems it would be a good idea to hook a small hose to the tell tall outlet either at the exit of block or the plastic outlet on lower cowling or pan(what ever you call it) to direct the flow to the bucket.

They do recommend removing stats and anodes 1st but like he said in the other thread the anodes may not be an easy thing to do and he did not do it.

before going forward,
Have you verified that the overheat is what the problem is?
Have you isolated it to which head overheat switch is coming in?

good points. I will have to look once i decide to do this procedure.

I have not verified 100% it is an overheat problem. Just by comments left here and research and questions I have asked, what I m experiencing could be either 1. over heat due to scale build up. 2. RPM reduction kicking in due to electrical connection. 3. Sticky poppet valve.
My guess is number 3 however doing this procedure certainly would not hurt considering the way the inside water jackets look.
I found an explanation on another forum that "rodbolt" is or used to comment there also.
1992 Yamaha 200 TXRQ - Pressure Relief Valve? / 140345

how would i go about isolating which head is causing this possible over heat?
If i do go with Rydelyme, i will definitely post after pictures

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What we found on my neighbors 200V6, 2 stroke was both banks, especially towards the lower cylinders were the worst. If there was 15% of the opening, flowing water / coolant, I'd be surprised.

Hopefully, there is somewhat of an opening where that product can flow thru and do its thing. I would bet the corrosion / scale is likely equal on boths sides.

If you have a lazer temp gun and start the engine, get it to temp(with water cooling it of course), pointing the lazer at each head will show the varying temps in the head, likely cooler higher up on the block...

[rodbolt17]

snake oil and mechanic in a can and santa clause.

[midgiegualla]

Just a quick update from me Re: Overheat Problem.
I had Overheat Alarm coming on and RPM reduction over a period of about a year( 115 v4 1989). Started off coming on over 4100 RPM and steadily got worse until it was coming on if I went over 3000 RPM. Replaced/Checked everything I could think of and made no difference . Saw CentralTexas's Post and tried that as a last resort. That was early this year and I would like to inform you that the engine hasn't missed a beat since then.
So this would defiantly be worth a try. Just a couple of points : When I was flushing mine it did not foam up like the picture in CentralTexas's post ?? When I bought the Rydlyme there were two grades (Normal & Marine) Not sure what the difference is but I used Marine. The amount of scum and grit that was flushed out was amazing !!! They also told me when I bought the Rydylme that you can dilute the solution more than 50/50 if you like you would just have to up the Flush Time to achieve the same result. Cheers

[CHEWBAKA1973]

snake oil and mechanic in a can and santa clause.

you dont believe in this stuff? only taking the heads of and good ol scraping?

[CHEWBAKA1973]

Just a quick update from me Re: Overheat Problem.
I had Overheat Alarm coming on and RPM reduction over a period of about a year( 115 v4 1989). Started off coming on over 4100 RPM and steadily got worse until it was coming on if I went over 3000 RPM. Replaced/Checked everything I could think of and made no difference . Saw CentralTexas's Post and tried that as a last resort. That was early this year and I would like to inform you that the engine hasn't missed a beat since then.
So this would defiantly be worth a try. Just a couple of points : When I was flushing mine it did not foam up like the picture in CentralTexas's post ?? When I bought the Rydlyme there were two grades (Normal & Marine) Not sure what the difference is but I used Marine. The amount of scum and grit that was flushed out was amazing !!! They also told me when I bought the Rydylme that you can dilute the solution more than 50/50 if you like you would just have to up the Flush Time to achieve the same result. Cheers

Thanks for posting your results. This makes me feel even better trying this product. I requested a sample of their product to see if it will dissolve the build up before I purchase a bigger bottle.
I assume Central Texas used the marine version. I also do not know the difference but I was told 50/50 is recommended but safe to use full strength. How much product did you use for your flush? 1 or 2 gallons?

[midgiegualla]

Don't worry , It will dissolve the buildup alright. The thing I like is that it isn't a harsh treatment . Slow and steady. I used 4 Lt (aprox 1 gallon) . I poured the lot into the drum and then added equal amount of water. Turn on your pump and let the motor fill with the Rydlyme solution . Then I just added enough water so the pump doesn't suck any air. It was surprising how much solution the motor actually held. Just add enough water for a continuous flow. I flushed for about 4 hours. I also tilted the drum so all the scum settled down one end and made sure the pump was the other end. (Just so the scum wasn't getting sucked up by the pump and recycled through the engine). You can also reuse the solution.(it does eventually lose it's power though)

[rodbolt17]

snake oil, santa clause and mechanic in a can.

I may as well toss in the tooth fairy, for the WV posters.

it MAY work, most likely NOT.

you may burn a piston atemtping the snake oil.
your motor do as you wish.

[CentralTexas]

snake oil, santa clause and mechanic in a can.

I may as well toss in the tooth fairy, for the WV posters.

it MAY work, most likely NOT.

you may burn a piston atemtping the snake oil.
your motor do as you wish.

Not trying to be rude here, and also recognizing you are a master mechanic with a lot more experience than me, but if you have had, or know of someone who has had, a problem with this particular product I’d like to hear about it. I was unable to find any negative feedback and I did call marine dealers who used the product, talked to a mechanic that used the product and did an internet search for negative reviews. I also spoke to the manufacturer. I had the same concern as you, using a product with acid in it on an engine is always a no-no. I also went to the extent of soaking an anode I bought in this product for the same length of time I flushed the engine. I wanted to see if I made a bad decision, the anode was barely impacted. To the extent I could see into the water jacket, the internal metal finish seemed completely unaffected and I’ve been running the engine for over a year since the treatment.

[CHEWBAKA1973]

Rydelyme flush results

Thx for posting the link. I will pull the t stay covers off and re take some pictures. Mine wasn't nearly as bad as this guy's and im not sure if it is calcium deposits or salt or something else.

After





Crap that came out

[99yam40]

But did it solve your problem with the alarm coming in?
That is the main thing

Took me a while to figure out that the last pic was the bottom of the bucket after emptying out the solution,
but I did finally