Originally posted by panasonic
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Rebuilding Carbs tomorrow - any last words?
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Originally posted by panasonic View PostOh and a GOOD Phillips and flathead screwdriver. JIS Phillips if possible.
Never ceases amaze me that folks will spent 10's of thousands of dollars on a boat and motor, and will balk severely about paying a few extra bucks on a good screwdriver. Then proceed to tear up every screw on their carbs....using Crappy Tire (harbor fright equivalent) junk tools.
Nice - needed an excuse to pick up some new tools hahaha
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The manual for your engine...you can download.
https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/se...200u-225u/file
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yep, or use a hammer and a punch on a tilt or trim piston cap.
yep my bore scope does pics,video and audio.
some years back I sent a video to Yamaha at Kennesaw. when they called back with a powerhead replace auth they did mention something about maybe turning the audio off .
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Welp - dissamembly went off without a hitch. But my rebuild kits aren’t arriving until tomorrow.
the carbs were fairly dirty - the bottom being the worst of the bunch. They were very different than the Evinrude carbs I rebuilt last year in that you can’t really see what’s blocked. Example would be that I could shine a light into the openings on the Evinrude and see if it was clear or not.
That at doesn’t matter too much though - putting the hose of the carb cleaner and spraying cleared me out if there was any blockage. Didn’t get any good pictures - but attached some of the bottom bowl before cleaning.
Rebuild and reinstall tomorrow - test run Saturday to see if it solves my RPM issue.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postthe screws at the bottom outside cover the idle fuel jets or pilot fuel. the jets in the bowl are mains. pilot air jets are located in the top edge of the carb throat.
DO NOT take the jets out that are under that stainless cover.
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see the two small shrouded jets, simply spray through them leave the screws and the stainless plat alone as well. the less you twist on irrelevant stuff the less you can bust things.
about the only time I mess with them is when it sunk.
same as the two LARGE brass plugs near the fuel mix screw. leave it alone. I have seen carb bodies get cracked. there is nothing under them but holes.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postsee the two small shrouded jets, simply spray through them leave the screws and the stainless plat alone as well. the less you twist on irrelevant stuff the less you can bust things.
about the only time I mess with them is when it sunk.
same as the two LARGE brass plugs near the fuel mix screw. leave it alone. I have seen carb bodies get cracked. there is nothing under them but holes.
If they were the issue, which ones would like be the ones potentially causing the RPM restriction?Attached FilesLast edited by JerEazy2; 02-22-2018, 09:49 PM.
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the large brass screws simply cover the holes for idle and off idle. once they got drilled ya gotta cover trhem with something.
up and running all carb circuits are used, they all have to be clean.
however fuel does not sit in the pilot air passage so it only gets funky if you sink it.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postup and running all carb circuits are used, they all have to be clean.
they are all clean for sure. Next fun after reinstall will be trying to understand what the eff the service manual is saying for the link and sync procedure.
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When you take the carbs off the intake manifold and reinstall them they won't be exactly in the same place as where they came off. The mounting bolts are a bit smaller than the holes in the carbs.
Since the carbs are "linked" together with rods then a adjustment may have to be made so that the throttle plates in each carb bank are opening and closing precisely at the same time....they will be "synchronized"
Once you understand what you are trying to accomplish then the procedure in the manual will become easier to understand.
Good Luck
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