Motor flusher question

[rodbolt17]

and my F150 overheats on a flusher.
that is why if the motor has an onboard flusher simply use it.
I probably test run more yamahas a month than most people flush in a year.
I have personnaly never seen a properly running 3.1L motor overheat on the muffs.
I have seen some with weak water pumps do it or leaking pressure valves or the rubber dam under the wear plate has built up corrosion and is letting the pump suck a bit of ex. almost every F150 and 3.3L F200/225 will overheat on muffs.
I have only done outboard/sterndrive work about 35 yrs. the past 20 for Yamaha dealers, Salty Dawg in Manteo NC and Joe's marine in wanchese NC.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I actually flush BOTH with the attachment initially (as I wash the boat), then run the engine (muffs) until the thermostat opens up to get fresh water on the other side of that..

Never had an over heat (or any other alarms) since new...

When the Impeller pump gets to be a couple years old, I can see the pisser "sputter" when revved slightly. A new kit installed, no "sputter" at all...

.

[pstephens46]

Please, take it on over to The Hull Truth.

That's were I go to vent some and hopefully stir some pots.

Jekyll and Hyde I be.

Our Roscoe creates quite the stir over there. Most entertaining.

I think I could run my F150 out of gas on two hoses. Or the well dry....

[Warren60]

Will let y'all know how it goes.I don't have the space for a large bucket or drum where i keep my boat. I agree the neighbors will be happier if i did have one.Thanks again for the help
Warren

[zenoahphobic]

I actually flush BOTH with the attachment initially (as I wash the boat), then run the engine (muffs) until the thermostat opens up to get fresh water on the other side of that..

Never had an over heat (or any other alarms) since new...

When the Impeller pump gets to be a couple years old, I can see the pisser "sputter" when revved slightly. A new kit installed, no "sputter" at all...

.

Your video of your engine being flushed with earmuffs shows you have a lot of mains water pressure.
Seems to me that there is a market for mains pressure pump that will increase weaker supplies so that earmuffs need only be used.
Also an interesting point about pisser splutter when revved up, as an indicator of weakening engine water pump output. Presumably it is the weakening impeller vanes that flex too far when trying to rapidly "accelerate" the water, and then seal down at constant revs.

[99yam40]

to me sputtering means air getting into the cooling system, if it was solid water it may be weak, but not sputtering

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your video of your engine being flushed with earmuffs shows you have a lot of mains water pressure.
Seems to me that there is a market for mains pressure pump that will increase weaker supplies so that earmuffs need only be used.
Also an interesting point about pisser splutter when revved up, as an indicator of weakening engine water pump output. Presumably it is the weakening impeller vanes that flex too far when trying to rapidly "accelerate" the water, and then seal down at constant revs.

There's usually about 50 PSI (re-claimed water) going thru 3/4" hose bib and hose. I also have the largest "ID hose adapter" I could muster on the muffs..
(regular spin faucet). The new dock is getting 1/4 turn spigots, again-recycled water lines (re-routed for less turns under ground) 3/4", drinking water- 1/2" line (about 80 PSI)

The sputter ONLY happens when the impeller is approx 2 years old. Everything else is the same...

I'll run on muff's for maybe 10 minutes at about 1,000 RPM. (regular idle is 700).. No problems keeping up the water flow under those conditions..

[99yam40]

does this sputter mean the flow stops and starts back, like some air/exhaust gets into the cooling water?
I see no way for the water flow out of the tell tail to be interrupted and sputter by a worn impeller ,
unless water inside the motor is boiling and turning into steam

[TownsendsFJR1300]

does this sputter mean the flow stops and starts back, like some air/exhaust gets into the cooling water?
I see no way for the water flow out of the tell tail to be interrupted and sputter by a worn impeller ,
unless water inside the motor is boiling and turning into steam

The water doesn't stop flowing, it's just not a steady stream (as with the new impeller) when revved (quickly and shortly) to say 2K RPM's.

Bring it back to idle or a STEADY 1000, flow is steady...

Perhaps revving a bit too high, but that's when I know it's due..

Happens cold (back on the lift) or hot...

I suspect, with the quick higher RPMs, the pump has to keep up with keeping the powerhead full, thus the sputter..

(I can't video it now as the pump is still fairly new and won't do it)


*This isn't an issue for me (or the engine) at all, just posted what I've learned about this engine / water pump....

[rodbolt17]

pay no attention.
most folks do not understand that we are discussing a two stage pump.
at low speed it is a positive displacement type.
at higher speeds it is a centrifugal type.
big difference between the way the pump works in the stages.
troubleshooting intermittants and most other non hard failures on a flusher is a teat on a boar hog.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't have ANY issues, so as for teats on a boar Hog, I don't even have a boar hog..

I also posted above yours it "does it on muffs or HOT (IE: in the water-NOT on muffs)".

So NO, it's NOT a muff only thing...

[zenoahphobic]

pay no attention.
most folks do not understand that we are discussing a two stage pump.
at low speed it is a positive displacement type.
at higher speeds it is a centrifugal type.
big difference between the way the pump works in the stages.
troubleshooting intermittants and most other non hard failures on a flusher is a teat on a boar hog.

This doesn't contradict Mr Townsends theory, nor my theory, perhaps the "sputter" occurs at the transition from one stage to the other.

I meant to add another thing, the water exits into the exhaust, short reving likely produces pressure pulses that momentarily offers resistance to the flow of water.
Maybe better impellers can be fashioned out of boar teats!

[pstephens46]

This doesn't contradict Mr Townsends theory, nor my theory, perhaps the "sputter" occurs at the transition from one stage to the other.

I meant to add another thing, the water exits into the exhaust, short reving likely produces pressure pulses that momentarily offers resistance to the flow of water.
Maybe better impellers can be fashioned out of boar teats!

But that would ruin the term.

[panasonic]

pay no attention.
most folks do not understand that we are discussing a two stage pump.
at low speed it is a positive displacement type.
at higher speeds it is a centrifugal type.
big difference between the way the pump works in the stages.
troubleshooting intermittants and most other non hard failures on a flusher is a teat on a boar hog.

Can someone please explain how a rubber impeller, single stage centrifugal pump, AKA a water pump on a outboard.....can be also a positive displacement pump?

I am not following that....never heard that before.

[rodbolt17]

at low speeds the blades make contact with the cup.
as impeller speed increases the blades actually fold back away from the cup and it is now centrifugal.
fairly simple concept that most outboards have used since the 40's. some old mercs and british seagulls did not use the two stage but used a centrifugal.