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Originally posted by rodbolt17
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I agree but apparently there are none close to me (GA). I have a crazy idea though, run some primary wire leads to the fuse block and use an in-line 10 amp fuse. Power up the system, crank motor, then insert fuse and see if ETV operates. Fuse only blows in first few seconds of startup and we have determined here that the ETV motor is not the issue. May or may not try it but would be interesting to see if it actually works. IF it did work, it could be my anti-theft device cause nobody would ever figure it out lol. -
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I'm inquiring with a colleague who fishes bass tournaments and lives near there. Of course he has big block HPDI motors. And nobody will ever convince him otherwise. And he has blown a few too. Seems pretty routine with those guys so they have to know a few good mechanics.Comment
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He responds with Crow Marine and Oconee Marine. I don't know either. All I have.
Different story in Savannah....Comment
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Nope, ETV is a totally different circuit.
Trace back were that low voltage is dropping.
but I do not see it blowing the fuse, but what do I knowLast edited by 99yam40; 02-16-2018, 05:41 PM.Comment
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At this point, you know more than me. LOL. Looking at my notes I realized I stated something wrong. The resting (key off) ETV relay input voltage from hot side of terminal to ground is in fact 12 volts. With key on (start up) the ETV relay input voltage from terminal to terminal (relay removed) is 9.65v (supposed to be 12v) so I suppose I need to check for resting voltage from ground to the downstream terminal of relay, correct? I am brain dead by now so please tell me what could cause this. I keep wandering back to the tilt and trim thinking it has something to do with this. Trim solenoid is right beside the relay cover and I originally noticed engine stalling when I was bumping the trim up. ETC went out for good when I was trimming the motor. Feeling really dumb but I had 2 technicians scratching their heads today as well.Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostComment
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There is nothing common between the T&T and the ETV except they are fed from the battery and main battery fuse.
I would be measuring each terminal to ground, not sure which other terminal you are reading to.
but if to the terminal that leaves the ETV relay and heads to the ECU, you are readying the path to ground thru the ECU on to the ETV motor or to some other partial ground.
since the ECU sends power and ground to the ETV motor and swaps them to reverse the rotation of motor, it would make sense that it is not doing what it should be doing.
maybe check to see if 58 or 56 has the same voltage reading as the relay.
was that low voltage reading with ETV motor unplugged or hooked upLast edited by 99yam40; 02-17-2018, 12:49 AM.Comment
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Picture bad but yes, it is across the terminals where the relay plugs in. Hooking up short start harness tomorrow. I still believe problem is being caused by wiring on the boat side. Voltage was taken with everything else hooked up correctly. Only ETV relay was pulled. Good fuse left in since pulling relay would not allow current to blow it.Last edited by HarrisonDawgs; 02-17-2018, 12:55 AM.Comment
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I do not see where anything in the boats wiring as anything to do with the ETV fuse, why do you keep going that direction?
looking at that manual I believe Terminal (a) voltage reading should be from the ETV fuse.
I would think terminal d maybe the out put to the ECU that heads to ETV motor eventually
I do not believe terminal b and c come from that fuse, but from the ECU to pick up the relay.
But then I do not see any info on the relay terminals and what wires run to them.
But since you have energized the relays with jumpers you should know what is what
since mistakes have been found in that manual I am not sure I would believe everything so not much help on what is right or wrongLast edited by 99yam40; 02-17-2018, 02:17 AM.Comment
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dude.
google kirchoffs laws.
it simply cannot be in the hull wireing. in the immortal words: not no way not no how.
track the circuits supplied ONLY by that 10 amp fuse.
you will see FROM the fuse current can flow through the relay contacts to the ECM from the ECM to the ETV motor to ground.
the aux circuit is through the relay magnetic coil to the ECM ground.
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"For what it is worth, when I noticed the first hiccup I was in process of trying to trim the motor up a bit. Motor was on plane running around 3000rpm. I touched the trim button and motor bucked. Let off and it continued to run fine. All in all I used the trim maybe 4 times. Each time it stalled for a second (until I let off). The last time it went straight to idle (I am assuming Fail Safe mode). It will crank, change gears, idle around, trim works both ways and otherwise do everything it is supposed to do but when you try to accelerate it just limps around at 6mph and 1300 rpm"
So after this occurred you found the EVT fuse blown? Is this correct?Comment
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Boat was running fine. After the etv fuse blows it simply cannot run fine, not past 1500 rpms anyway. That is, you have no throttle the moment after you have no current to run the throttle valve motor. So, after the whole process of trim difficulties the etv fuse was blown. And please, yes everybody...i know the etv is a completely seperate circuit. But motor stalled each and every time i touched the trim button and lost all throttle with the last touch of trim. Absolutely...positively...no possible doubt.Last edited by HarrisonDawgs; 02-17-2018, 02:32 PM.Comment
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No doubt the fuse blew on last touch of trim before i lost throttle accelearation.Comment
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with the relay pulled and the key on measure voltage to all of the relay base connectors with the black meter lead to ground, and report back what you get.
My thinking is you have never measured this way yet.
You should get 12 volts from fuse to the relay on one side that goes to contacts ( you have tested this).
You should not get any voltage on the other side of the contacts because the relay is not there to close and send voltage there.
If there is no voltage on the out going to the ECU, then put the meter on ohms and test that point to ground. this should test the whole circuit to the ECU on both wires leaving the relay contacts along with the wires leaving the ECU to the ETV motor itself.
if it shows continuity(which I would think it will at 1st key on since it blows the fuse) then unplug the ETV connector and test that same point for ground/continuity again. The continuity should go away. if it does not then there is something going wrong in a device or wire.
the only thing I can think of that changes from start up is what the ECU is telling the ETV to do.
if it is not in the wiring and connectors it could be in the ECU.
No one has said yet what the ETV should be doing at key on or off.
where should it go to when turned off to be ready for the next start up?
where should it go to at key on to help with the start up?
maybe a lot of this can be seen with YDS.
what if the ECU gives a ground to both sides at the same time instead of a hot on one leg and the ground on the other?
I am not sure how the ECU swaps directions, but if something like a relay, maybe one side is not changing when it should.
electronic relays can fail too
may have to be watching the meter when the key is turned on for each test to see what is happening as it goes away after initial key on
you say you can put the fuse back in and it will not blow while running, but you have not seen if the ETV actually functions at that point if I remember what you wrote correctly, but does the throttle valve open and close any?
Oh yea, bad battery connections can cause problems with electronics.
bad connection causes voltage drop when heavy load of T&T is hit and then a spike when it arcs and makes a connection again and comes back
Just some of my thoughtsLast edited by 99yam40; 02-17-2018, 03:07 PM.Comment
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