Originally posted by 99yam40
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225 sho blowing fuse. help please
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I'll try again.
that 10 amp fuse feeds the ETC and ETC only.
any RED wire under the hood has 12V anytime the battery switch is on.
yellow is key on 12v,yellow red are typically various relay or constant 12v outlets when the key is on.
getting back to the ECT.
pin 73 on the ECU is the ground path that closes the relay. pins 59&60 are 12v inputs to the ECM via the relay.
pins 56&58 are 12v outputs to the ECT motor, ground one and power the other and the motor moves. reverse it and the motor moves the other way.some place between the fuse,relay ECM then back to the ECT you have an issue.
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I guess I do not understand why you are not checking the wires directly involved with the fuse that is blowing.
Rod posted them 59,60,56,&58.
I have a hard time believing what that manual shows at this point, due to the errors we have seen already.
but what can you do? You need something to follow.
Since Rod has posted that the wires to the ETV motor send power and a ground to the motor and are reversed to change direction of motion by the ECU.
if no problem is found with the wires, then I would think the ECU has a problem and is grounding a terminal when it should not be,
I would think that could be testedLast edited by 99yam40; 02-11-2018, 11:32 AM.
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Did the OP say that the power head was replaced some years back? I take it the wiring harness was swapped from one to the other....a possible clue.
Can the EVT be isolated, then using a 12 volt supply, a battery, with a inline fuse incorporated, hook it up using the appropriate pins in the plug and see if it pops the fuse in said inline fuse?
I did not see anywhere in the while conversation that this was done?
If this was done and the EVT does not blow the fuse...start wringing out the wires leading to the EVT as Rodnut has already said.
I am betting on a short in the harness.that a meggar will find when the eyeball may not...
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostI guess I do not understand why you are not checking the wires directly involved with the fuse that is blowing.
Rod posted them 59,60,56,&58.
I have a hard time believing what that manual shows at this point, due to the errors we have seen already.
but what can you do? You need something to follow.
Since Rod has posted that the wires to the ETV motor send power and a ground to the motor and are reversed to change direction of motion by the ECU.
if no problem is found with the wires, then I would think the ECU has a problem and is grounding a terminal when it should not be,
I would think that could be tested
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Originally posted by panasonic View PostDid the OP say that the power head was replaced some years back? I take it the wiring harness was swapped from one to the other....a possible clue.
Can the EVT be isolated, then using a 12 volt supply, a battery, with a inline fuse incorporated, hook it up using the appropriate pins in the plug and see if it pops the fuse in said inline fuse?
I did not see anywhere in the while conversation that this was done?
If this was done and the EVT does not blow the fuse...start wringing out the wires leading to the EVT as Rodnut has already said.
I am betting on a short in the harness.that a meggar will find when the eyeball may not...
With everything hooked up as if running, I would unplug the ECU connector and test 56,58,59, &60 pins in harness to rule out all of the wiring and rest of the circuits.
If none show a ground , it seems the only thing left would be the ECU
An open wire would not blow a fuse, plus those wires are not tied to that fuse/circuit.
still need to see what is sucking down the voltage you measured in that one test.Last edited by 99yam40; 02-11-2018, 02:49 PM.
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99yam, gotcha. I'll check 56-60. I decided to take a break from it for awhile, clear my head. Will check those wires tonight since it's still easy to get to and also re-check the continuity issue on 52 and 45. They are power wires so no idea why the continuity test failed but I agree, an open wire should not blow a fuse.
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First off, thanks to all who had help and input here. Got back to it tonight. Checked terminal/wire 59,60,73,55,64 and then 28,29,32,34,56,and 58. These are all checks for ETV and TPS circuit listed in manual page 5-28,29 and also pointed out by rodbolt. Every single thing checked out ok. No problems with any ground, all continuity checks were ok and I even checked every wire for continuity to ground to make sure there were no shorts. Nothing. I then backtracked to the problems with 2 wires having no continuity a few days ago. Page 5-25 (checking engine ECM circuit). Previously I mentioned no continuity from terminal 52 to 22 and 45 to 23 on wiring harness. This is correct and I am only sharing this b/c I believe to be yet another discrepancy in the manual. While there was no continuity to 22,23 as mentioned, there was continuity from 45 to 20 and 52 to 19. These are respectively 3 pins to the left on the ECU plug and same pattern. Either it is not marked correctly in the manual or I am dealing with a different wiring harness than what is shown in the manual I have. Since there was continuity at these 2 pins and I see absolutely no indications of wire burns, compromised insulation or anything else out of the ordinary, I am assuming the wiring harness is intact and functional. Everything is hooked back up now except the battery and I have not tried a power up to see if fuse still blows. I am assuming it will, since I have found no problems and have not made any changes. I hope that my cleaning and thorough inspection may have possibly resolved a weak connection but I have my doubts. I plan to inspect the tilt/trim system and some other wires in the boat and then attempt a start up with a new battery (just in case - but I have already tried 2 good batteries). Frankly at this point I am not looking for answers but posting this in hopes it might help someone else as far as the manual information. If the fuse pops this time I am headed to a yammy mechanic with YDIS and I will pull out the VISA. I'll post the verdict when I get one and possibly a picture of the YETI if he shows up . Again, thanks a million for your input and patience with me. Love this forum.
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hunting yeti.
why bother with the TPS pins?
your only looking at stuff on the ETV circuit between the 10 amp fuse and the ETV.
NOTHING else will pop that 10 amp fuse.
not the key switch,not the LPS not the TPS all that 10 amp fuse is there for is to protect the ETV and its circuits.
yest the ETV does have a TPS,actually two of them but they are powered by an entirely different 5V circuit.
an open will NEVER blow a fuse,only binding devices or a short to ground blows fuses.
do a google search on kircoffs laws. especially the law of current.
YDIS most likely will show nothing. the TPS monitors the angle the ECU simply applies the power and ground paths to operate the motor.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Posthunting yeti.
why bother with the TPS pins?
your only looking at stuff on the ETV circuit between the 10 amp fuse and the ETV.
NOTHING else will pop that 10 amp fuse.
not the key switch,not the LPS not the TPS all that 10 amp fuse is there for is to protect the ETV and its circuits.
yest the ETV does have a TPS,actually two of them but they are powered by an entirely different 5V circuit.
an open will NEVER blow a fuse,only binding devices or a short to ground blows fuses.
do a google search on kircoffs laws. especially the law of current.
YDIS most likely will show nothing. the TPS monitors the angle the ECU simply applies the power and ground paths to operate the motor.
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