Trailering support - what to buy?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the trailer cross member frame stuck out far enough, some schedule 40, 1.5" PVC with a "T" fitting and notched for the leading edge of the engine could be made up cheaply.

The trailer end of the "T", would have to be notched, maybe bungee corded around the frame, engine hydraulics' pulling it down-wards.

The engine would also have to be "V"ed or notched..

[Captn Dave]

The trailer and the boat should move in unison. If the boat is strapped down properly, well, that pretty much guarantees it. However, the engine is free to move as it wants to. The M-Y (or a 2x, whatever) is great because it keeps the engine at a lower angle and the hydraulics pull it down snug. So that does eliminate some bouncing, keeping the engine/mount as essentially "one piece". But if the goal is limit the amount of stress on the transom, then transferring the load of the engine down the trailer frame is what you want.

Truth be told, I don't think any of these devices completely eliminates all the stress. Ideally, we'd want the engine vertical when trailering, but that's not feasible unless for some reason the boat sits very high on a trailer. In the end, the extra precaution that any of these devices provides is a good idea.

Actually the boat and trailer shouldn't move in unison. The trailer is going to flex. If it didn't cracks would soon develop.

[dray0151]

Actually the boat and trailer shouldn't move in unison. The trailer is going to flex. If it didn't cracks would soon develop.

There in lies the issue with the bar attached onto the trailer and then the lower unit. It wants to twist the motor the way the trailer goes but the motor is also attached to the boat doing something different. That is the thought behind the M-Y supporting the motor off the motor itself and attached only to the boat. that's my story and I am sticking to it!

[DennisG01]

"that's my story and I am sticking to it!"

Sure, absolutely there is flex in the trailer. 100% agree with you. Actually, there is flex in the boat's hull, as well. But the boat and trailer go up and down together - the minute amount of difference due to flexing is extremely inconsequential. But even so, you could make a reasonable argument that the boat's hull simply follows the flexing due not only to it's own flexibility, but also due to the way the bunks/rollers are attached to the frame of the trailer. When the center of the trailer frame flexes, the aft end of the trailer frame will pivot up (again, though, we're talking extremely small amounts that are really only "meaningful" in a laboratory). However, since the hull follows that motion, the bow of the boat will also go down, while the stern also goes up.

The only real time that there would be a considerable difference between the boat and the trailer would be if the boat left contact with the trailer due to a bump, then slammed back down. If that would happen, there would be a good shock load to the transom from the motor weight. With the transom saver, some of the shock load is transferred to the trailer frame.

Besides, the transom saver's attachment points at both the trailer side and, especially the motor side, allow for some movement. Nothing is bolted together so tightly that it can't move. Believe, I've been in this business for 25 years and, like most of you, have been an avid boater my whole life along with family member's and friends. There are zero consequences to the transom from using one of those transom saver's - only benefits. These things have been around for many decades and are, by no means, uncommon. I'm not promoting anyone to buy one, but if you haven't seen one, take a look - there's no way a transom saver will cause an issue.

[walleye1]

Google this part number 4000adj, thats what we sold at the dealer ship.

[zenoahphobic]

This topic came up a while ago, several people including myself expressing they never use any extra engine supports. Personally I have travelled hundreds of thousands of miles over many decades with no damage to the transom. Even with the boat that showed deterioration (black soft wood), I would suggest the engine forces when running are far greater than the bumpy road travelling forces.
What proof is there that they actually save anything? Looking like a good idea often just has a placebo affect, put it on because you feel better. But often adding "extra" shifts forces elsewhere and may in fact have the opposite affect, I remember people using all sorts of contraptions that shift, breaking or damaging the engine, other parts of the transom and/or trailer members. Not to mention falling off onto the road causing a hazard.

[99yam40]

Yamaha states not to use the tilt lock to transport, just for locking motor in top position while working on the motor.
so people that need to have the motor tilted while trailering need to find a different way to lock it up or risk the motor lowering while pulling it down the road.
my 40 stays all the way down while going down the road with no problem yet

I try to make sure I do not strattle anything in the road while pulling it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Trim with a "block" (your choice-as a support with the trim cylinder) is fine...

There's no reason to tilt the engine ALL the way UP (as if stored in the water).

[BQUICK]

All the way up on the tilt lock allows the motor to try to rock more than if down. When it's down it has more weight holding it there. I once rode in the back of my 16ft AllisonCraft with a Merc tower of power....while trailering. With it tilted up on tilt lock you could see the transom flex when that tall motor would try to rock. I put a support that attached motor to trailer and little or no flex. Proved it to me.

[pstephens46]

What do the manufacturers recommend? Offshore boats are probably very strong in regards to transoms. Bass or aluminum possibly not so much. Don't know. I've seen the contraction Walleye mentioned used on a bunch of pontoons.

[DennisG01]

Google this part number 4000adj, thats what we sold at the dealer ship.

There's another style that has a "leg" which is formed/bent to go back underneath the hull a bit (for trailers where the rear crossmember is aft enough). I've always been a little leary of that one since there's already a bend (weak point) in it - although it seems to work well for those using it. But the one you linked to is the one I'm most familiar with, as well. I've seen them used on all types of boats, but probably the most common (that I've seen, anyways) is on bass boats with big engines.

[walleye1]

Try this pn#460-adj, google it.

[DennisG01]

Try this pn#460-adj, google it.

That's it! That's the one I've always been leery of - but that could just be me.