Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How to remove TT oil tube.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How to remove TT oil tube.

    Engine 50hp (GETO) 2-stroke
    serial: 62F-503511

    I tried to open up the oil tube nut on the bottom of the TT assy. I got it to move but it became harder to turn so I decided to screw it back in. Now it is stuck and it is leaking. I can’t tighten it more.

    Are the threads gone? Can the threads be redone with helicoil?
    Good suggestions on how to get it open?

    B60E40CE-5D6C-4332-8492-52C7AE1F606F.jpeg
    Attached Files

  • #2
    You need to use brake line wrenches, and work it back and forth.

    Comment


    • #3
      hate to say it but sounds like the SS fitting galled and got messed up.
      I am of no help as to what to do with it right now.
      Probably as to come apart to see what is needed
      Last edited by 99yam40; 01-21-2018, 08:26 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        It is a double flare fitting, save it or junk it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Guess I have to take it to a shop with experience. Maybe they can save it.

          Comment


          • #6
            Once stainless fittings gall then it is pretty much done. The threads have welded themselves together basically.

            You maybe able to work it back and forth in very small increments and keep trying to get some lube in the joint, Not WD-40 though. Some kind of lube with Molybdenum in it.

            If you are patience enough and lucky you may be able to get it tight enough not to leak. If you have to take it apart then it will probably be destroyed in the process.

            Good luck.

            www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html

            Comment


            • #7
              I wonder why it galled. It have never been opened before. I got it open maybe one turn before it got stiff and decided to tighten it back. Why does not Yamaha put anti size paste on the threads? I can’t be the only one with this problem. Maybe the tube and nut can be TIG welded together to stop it from leaking.

              And yes, I used a break line wrench.

              Comment


              • #8
                Did you read the info in that link he posted?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes I read it. Thanks for info.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by walleye1 View Post
                    You need to use brake line wrenches, and work it back and forth.
                    Interesting link on the galling. Particularly the suggestion to use different grades to reduce the chance of "cold welding". Never heard of that.

                    I don't have a set of brake line wrenches. Is the purpose to reduce damage to those little nuts?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post

                      Interesting link on the galling. Particularly the suggestion to use different grades to reduce the chance of "cold welding". Never heard of that.

                      I don't have a set of brake line wrenches. Is the purpose to reduce damage to those little nuts?
                      Yes, purpose is to have the wrench apply a turning load to more of the nut flats than would be possible with just an open end wrench. It is technically called a flare nut wrench. A box end wrench would be best but since there is no way to get it onto the nut the flare nut wrench is used. A compromise between an open end wrench and a box end wrench.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Flare nut wrenchs are a pain in the a.. If the fitting nut ( B nut is term we use) is in good shape then a standard wench is fine. The only place I have used a flare nut wrench on a regular bases is on brake line fittings where it attaches to the caliper as they rust to bits up here in salt land....in a matter of minutes...lol

                        Here is the very best stainless thread lube I have ever used....only $100.00/ounce tube.Silver Goop

                        https://m.skygeek.com/swagelok-ms-tl...eize-1-oz.html



                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by panasonic View Post
                          Flare nut wrenchs are a pain in the a.. If the fitting nut ( B nut is term we use) is in good shape then a standard wench is fine. The only place I have used a flare nut wrench on a regular bases is on brake line fittings where it attaches to the caliper as they rust to bits up here in salt land....in a matter of minutes...lol

                          Here is the very best stainless thread lube I have ever used....only $100.00/ounce tube.Silver Goop

                          https://m.skygeek.com/swagelok-ms-tl...eize-1-oz.html


                          One could only imagine what Fairdeal would do if he was forced to pay $100 for that little tube.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post

                            One could only imagine what Fairdeal would do if he was forced to pay $100 for that little tube.
                            Just remember though, like Brylcreem, a little dab'll do ya. It is less than a buck a fitting. Cheap in the long run if it saves some parts from being destroyed when they are unfastened.

                            It can be more expensive in the long run when cheap stuff is used. God knows I know from personal experience.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If only the tube $ was the problem, but probably the whole tilt cylinder.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X