2012 115 hp oil drain plug

[rodbolt17]

well I have done this type of work for a living since I was 15 and I will be 52 next month.
so far I have never cross threaded a drain plug or left a filter off.
it will most likely happen one day.
over the years I have witnessed human mistakes and errors.
some faily funny some fairly expensive.
recently a Yamaha field rep doing a service failed to properly tighten the idler pully on an F350.

munched a lot of expensive parts.

over the years I have seen oil drained and not refilled, filters removed and not replaced.
oil failed to be drained and adding 6 new qts.

sometimes a phone call or other distraction hits during a critical step.
its why my cell phone stays in the truck and not in my pocket.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thousands of professional mechanics throughout the world would have to quit their jobs if what you say is correct.

Well I don't want that "professional" working on anything of mine...

I've had to re-sync my 4 cylinder Yamaha 1300cc, 145 HP motorcycle engine (first pic) after paying a "Yamaha tech" over $100 for the sync. I later found he adjusted a throttle shaft screw(white paint broken), NOT THE AIR SCREWs as it should have been done... Its in big letters in the shop manual, DO NOT ADJUST those screws!

Also got my old Honda ****wing motorcycle (second pic) back after a repair with a NEW oil leak. The dealership wouldn't fix it. Honda ****ed me around.. Went to another dealership (2 hours away), Told them to fix it, and I'd later sue the original dealership and Honda for the repairs. The "Professional" nicked the clutch cover removing the gasket allowing oil to leak (besides several other o-rings improperly installed). Honda did end up paying for the repair...

Kudo's to the second shop, well worth the ride two hours away as I trusted them...

Its somewhat difficult to find anyone truly qualified / knowledgable to work on just about anything nowadays...

Yes, some threads will gall however if you change your oil at least once a year, it shouldn't happen. Both the below bikes have the same size drain plugs on both the engine and drive pumpkins as the F150 OB...

I had the closest Yamaha OB shop (Cape Coral Fl) replace my entire throttle bodies (F150, while under warranty) as it would stall at idle. $1,000 plus bill Yamaha ate... It did idle after that but was low. Brought it back, they then tuned a nasty (I watched them) vibration (balancer already replaced) into the engine raising the idle. The engine would literally vibrate enough to walk itself and turn itself (cable steering) it was that bad.. WTF??

Ended up running the boat to another dealership (about 30 miles away) who had one of the highest tech's working there. He was able to tune it back out... There are "Professional mechanic's" and then others trying to get by....

[johnwater]

oil drain plug problem

I have a problem reinstalling my oil drain plug.
have 150 4 stroke.
removed drain plug easily with 14mm deep socket and ratchet,drained oil,put on new oil filter.
However,cannot seem to reinstall the plug.the threads just won't start.
i am using universal joint and small extension,also tried just using hand tighten to start it ,but not happening.I can feel the oil pan threads with my finger,they seem ok,but can't see it.
looks like i am learning that removing oil thru the dip stick should be what i should have done.
before i take it to service center, is there a way to remove the plastic apron over the rubber damper so that i can visually see what is happening?
how hard is that?
thanks
john

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you tilt the engine up and use a good, strong flash light, you should be able to see up the hole and see the threads..

As deep as the plug is (up that rubber sleeve, I've found mine doesn't go up in there dead even.

Try a socket, (maybe with a layer of masking tape inside to snug up the socket tight). GENTLY try spinning the bolt back up there at slightly different angles..

At the last oil change, any issues (that you know of if YOU changed it) or did SOMEONE ELSE CHANGE IT (and possible screw uo the threads? It should have come out, once broken free, very, very easily (by hand actually)

To your question specifically, if you remove that plastic, mid section apron (T&T switch, couple of screws, etc) , it'll give you access to that area...


Note, the below pic is from my F150 but should be similar...

[greasyshaft]

i sometimes like to use ten universal sockets end to end just to challenge myself.

[rodbolt17]

dang an old post.
I turned 53 today
but yet another reason I use a vacuum fluid extractor.
I can suck out the oil in less than 2 min.
that's way faster than you can hunt down the tools and make a mess with the drain plug.
that and there is 0% chance of something going wrong with the plug threads.

[boscoe99]

i sometimes like to use ten universal sockets end to end just to challenge myself.

Try using the ten universal sockets end to end over your shoulder while using a mirror to view the work being. Prior application of a cerveza or two will help.

It will help if you are Lysdexic.

[greasyshaft]

On the offshore's I just drill strait through the fairing and into the sump, once oil is drained I simply spray the hole with brakeclean and bog it with sika-flex.

[boscoe99]

On the offshore's I just drill strait through the fairing and into the sump, once oil is drained I simply spray the hole with brakeclean and bog it with sika-flex.

How is it working with using a drill bit with ten universals driving it?

Can you say "ovaled" hole?

Since you are down under, does the oil flow upward after you have pierced the sump?

[rodbolt17]

that's challenging if I do it left handed.

for a more permanent repair I use 5200 and net mending twine.

[boscoe99]

Do drill bits turn counter clockwise down under?

Does a conventional Aussie lower unit turn counter clockwise?

Coriolis effect or something similar?

Hmmmm.