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**Ken** · 02-02-2006, 08:41 PM

dyount,
Even if the carbs were re-built two months ago, if that motor has been allowed to set up since then w/o being run, the carbs could be gummed up just enough to give you the symptoms you are experiencing.
I would first do a shock treatment with SeaFoam or RingFree. If that doesn't help, pull the jets and squirt some Berryman's Chemtool (or equiv) into the orifices. Replace any o-rings at the ends of jets that are cracked or distorted.
If the above does not help, then you might consider pulling the carbs, tear down, cleaning, and kit install.
Your problem could be electrical, but most likely fuel related. Get yourself a Yamaha shop manual if you don't already have one.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

**dyount** · 02-02-2006, 09:58 PM

SOunds like a pretty good call. The boat sat for a year and a half before I took it over. WOuld you please explaine what you mean by "shock it"?

Thanks Ken....

**Ken** · 02-03-2006, 09:49 AM

dyount,
By "shock" treatment I mean to run an extra strong concentration of detergent thru the fuel system. This needs to be done once a year to bust loose carbon buildup in 2-strokes. But also can be done to dissolve gum/varnish buildup in carbs.
Here's the procedure I use (from a previous post):

Two strokes build up a lot of carbon internally and need to be de-carbonized by doing a "shock treatment" with a detergent like Seafoam.
I like to do the shock treatment once a year on my C115 - in late winter when I am going thru my list of "spring make-ready".
If you use a detergent like Yamaha Ring Free all the time in your fuel tank, then the carbon buildup is not as bad. Still, a lot of 2-stroke owners will de-carbonize once a year - you will get various opinions on this.
I "shock-treat" my C115 by running the following mixture thru it. This will smoke up the area pretty good, and leave a lot of carbon on the drive way:
16 oz can Seafoam
3/4 gal gas
3 oz oil (2 if oil injected)
Disconnect the fuel line at the input to the bulb and attach a three foot piece of fuel line to the bulb. Mix the above in a small container -
I use an empty 5 quart oil jug. Set the container on the deck of your boat and insert the fuel line and secure to make sure the end stays on the bottom of the container. Pump up bulb and start outboard with earmuffs and water hose, of course -run a little above idle for 15 minutes and turn off. Let sit for 15 minutes. Run again for 15 minutes. Let sit 15 minutes. Repeat until all mixture is consumed. Reattach main tank hose to bulb and run regular fuel/mixture thru motor for 10 minutes - you want to get the concentrated detergent out of the fuel system.
Now, clean up the drive way before your wife sees all that nasty carbon and makes you get rid of your boat.

Letting a carbed motor set up for more than a few weeks w/o going thru the storage procedure in the owner's manual just invites gum/varnish buildup. I pull my boat out of the garage (along with the lawnmower, power generator, and log splitter) once every two weeks, sometimes every week and run them. When this is not practical, you need to follow the storage procedure outlined in the owner's manual.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

**fish addict** · 02-03-2006, 04:28 PM

where can you get seafoam? tks

**Ken** · 02-03-2006, 06:14 PM

fish addict,
I buy it here locally at Advance Auto and O'Reilly Auto. Other auto parts stores should carry it.
Go to www.seafoamsales.com - I think they have a list of dealers.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

**fish addict** · 02-03-2006, 09:27 PM

SeaFoam has two types, One is SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT, the other, SEA FOAM DEEP CREEP. Which one is the one you use. tks

**Ken** · 02-04-2006, 08:02 AM

fish addict,
Motor Treatment - 16 oz can.
Ken K [img]smile.gif[/img]

**fish addict** · 02-10-2006, 08:10 PM

tks

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