'92 55hp shifting issues i think?

[strucksteve]

I have a 1992 C55ELRQ with 703 controls. bought in January and slowly getting it back in action. Today I was able to get it running YAA-HOOO!! It sounds really good, but I don't exactly know what I'm talking about. I've read and reread a thread by "gdhodges" with similar sounding problems and wonder if we have the same issues.

With the motor not running: the prop turns clockwise easily in forward and neutral, and makes a clicking sound like a large ratchet. When I try to turn it counter-clockwise, it is very difficult and I can hear what sounds like the engine compressing. In reverse, the prop turns either direction by hand, but with a ratcheting sound about half as prominent as when in forward.

With the motor running: The prop seems to spin relative to the engine speed while in forward. In neutral and reverse, it spins at what appears to be the same speed as forward at idle.

It seems to me that the prop should not spin at all with the engine in neutral. I'm thinking about putting it in the water just to go joy-riding even if I don't have neutral or reverse. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any help.

[strucksteve]

So, today i disconnected the shift cable at the engine. I could slide the shift lever forward and aft. I did not see any two marks that lined up, but there was a distinct detent or settled spot in the middle that felt like neutral. While I did that, I could clearly see the shift rod that goes down towards the foot, rotate very easily. Does that sound like a problem in the foot?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There shouldn't be ANY CLICKING when in neutral. Yes with the engine running, just parasitic drag may allow the prop to turn some(normal).

I suspect you don't know who's had the lower unit off recently. It possible when the unit was re-installed, it wasn't in neutral or the shift lever wasn't in neutral (or cables misadjusted).

Slightly involved, but I would drop the unit, and shift it into neutral. If its still clicking, there's an issue. Also try shifting into forward and reverse for full, positive gear engaugment. It shouldn't be slipping/clicking when either in forward or reverse gears. In Neutral, it should spin easily with NO clicking.

Once you know that works, again find neutral in both the lower unit and the actual shifter.

I would disconnect the shifter cable (should it be adjusted incorrectly) and re-install the lower unit.

Now, if necessary, with EVERYTHING in NEUTRAL, adjust the shifter cable to easily slip over the engine linkage.

Good luck and please post your results.

[strucksteve]

Thanks. I have all the bolts loose, but got called away before I could get the unit off. Now I won't be able to get back to it till Monday or Tuesday. One of the four main bolts was broken off. Would it be ok to reassemble and run the engine like that? Or is it imperative that I remove and replace it?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks. I have all the bolts loose, but got called away before I could get the unit off. Now I won't be able to get back to it till Monday or Tuesday. One of the four main bolts was broken off. Would it be ok to reassemble and run the engine like that? Or is it imperative that I remove and replace it?

That's 25% of the clamping force holding that unit on. IMO, it needs to be fixed...

If there's a stud partially sticking out, some penetrating oil and vise grip might get it out. A light tap on the stud should help loosen it.

If your not comfy drilling and using an "Easy out", most machine shops can remove it for you without much of an issue (except for your wallet)...

[strucksteve]

Thanks. About 3/8" sticking out. I've never had much luck with ex-outs. I like to tack weld a piece of flat bar on the stud. It gives tons of leverage to break it free and almost 180 degrees of turn. Then I cut it off and finish with vise grips. Never tried it on a motor. May only consider it as a last resort.
Also, with 5 bolts loose, should the lower unit slide right off, or should I need some persuasion in the form of a rubber mallet?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks. About 3/8" sticking out. I've never had much luck with ex-outs. I like to tack weld a piece of flat bar on the stud. It gives tons of leverage to break it free and almost 180 degrees of turn. Then I cut it off and finish with vise grips. Never tried it on a motor. May only consider it as a last resort.
Also, with 5 bolts loose, should the lower unit slide right off, or should I need some persuasion in the form of a rubber mallet?

If you have a welder, I'd go that route, perhaps even plug weld a nut on the end of the broken stud. Spray some penetrating oil while its still warm down the threads. Obviously, cover everything else up. Actually the heat on with the weld should help loosen things up too.

Re dropping the unit, depending on your engine, some engines (likely yours as its older) have a small black speedometer hose visable with a small coupler at the forward part of the foot. That needs to be disconnected.

With the bolts removed it should just drop down and out.

When re-installing, use Yamaha Waterproof grease on all the splines, etc.

Looking at the parts fisch:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...%202/parts.htm there's four shorted bolts and one longer bolt just ahead of the trim tab. The trim tab may have to come off as well.

I didn't see the speedometer hose on the fisch, if its there, it'll be very obvious and will probably have a zip tie on each end where the lower unit hose meets the upper hose. If you don't see it, ignore the previous altogether.

If you look at the "lower drive" parts fisch both link #1 and #2, it shows what your dealing with and what to expect (there is a "water tube" that the water pump uses to pump water to the powerhead).

Good luck and please post your results..

[strucksteve]

So, I thought the zinc bolt was the fifth bolt. Didn't realize there was one underneath there. Unit slid right off. I put a mark on the top of the splined shift shaft and observed the prop/drive shaft relationship at various locations on the "clock". Directions are looking from aft for the prop, and above for the drive shaft.
At the 6 o'clock position, the prop and shaft are locked together. Turning the prop CCW turns the shaft CW.
At the 4 o'clock position, appears to be neutral as prop spins freely either direction.
from 9 to 3 o'clock through 12, turning the prop CCW turns the shaft CCW. Turning the prop CW produces a clicking sound like a big ratchet.
What do y'all think?
My guess is to shift to the 4 o'clock position and reassemble?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Simply find full engaugement (forward) spinning the main drive shaft in forward. Then, still turning the main drive shaft same direction, shift into reverse. Make note of the splined shifter shaft.

Shift the splined shifter shaft dead center where NEITHER GEARS are engauging/clicking, the lower units NOW IN NEUTRAL.

Make sure the upper control is in neutral (if there's linkages, should be) under the hood, make sure their also centered(in neutral). Disconnect shifter cable if need be.

Once the LU and the engine are assembled (verify the prop spins free, no clicking), now set the actual hand shifter in neutral.

Now check the cable adjustment where it attached to the linkage at the powerhead and adjust if need be. DO NOT pull linkage to meet the cable, they should line up (if adjusted correctly) without moving anything..

Pretty much, start at the bottom, moving up having everything definitly in neutral as you assembly. You may have to adjust the remote cable to the engine linkage so it slips on easily..

Good luck..

[strucksteve]

Awesome. Thanks. Can't wait to get back on it. By my description, does it sound like my LU is ok and it was an adjustment issue?

[strucksteve]

also, looking from above, which direction does the drive shaft spin?

[99yam40]

Have you ever seen a outboard or other gas motor that turns crank counterclockwise?
I have not, but does not mean they are not out there though

Bump your motor over while watching flywheel if you need confirmation

[strucksteve]

Have you ever seen a outboard or other gas motor that turns crank counterclockwise?
I have not, but does not mean they are not out there though

Bump your motor over while watching flywheel if you need confirmation

Thanks. I try not to assume anything...never really gave it much thought. Seems like a dumb question when I look back at how many times I have had to wrap a pull cord around a flywheel or pulley and it was ALWAYS the same direction.
So now that I have been through the adjusting of the shift shaft a couple times, I feel good about neutral. Tomorrow I will get some yamaha waterproof grease for the splines and LU oil. Anything else I should do while I have the LU off?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have the prop spinning without clicking, engauging, you should be good at that end.

Again, make sure the linkage under the hood is ALSO in neutral before assembling. The PO could have had it adjusted off.


Re the lower unit oil.

Catch the old fluid in a clean container and inspect for any metal particles and also make sure its NOT WHITISH, indicating water intrusion.. If there's ANY water, that NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED.

Good luck

[strucksteve]

Any idea on LU oil capacity, or where I should look?