Resurrecting a mint ProV200 - impeller/Tstat?

[Enduroman]

Hello,
Brand new to this forum, as I've just inherited a ski boat with a '92 ProV 200 on it. Probably has about 100 hours on it, though it sat unused for several years outside. No luck getting advice on other forums, so I'm hoping for some advice here.

Before starting engine, I drained fuel and injection oil and leg oil and replaced it all with new. I cleaned out the fuel filter too. I also fogged cylinders before turning it over for the first time, and replaced plugs. Runs very well although I do get an overheat warning buzzer if I idle along in forward gear for more than a few minutes. I've since learned that I should have replaced impeller before starting, which I plan to do next. Question - Should i order the impeller kit? How about the housing? should I also do the thermostat at the same time?
Anything else a guy should do to keep this engine in great shape? THANK YOU in advance!
Dan

[rodbolt17]

the kit,definately.
the housing, only if yours shows any sign of melt.
t-stats and pressure control valve gommet replacement.
fuel pumps and a carb cleaning.
carefully check all fuel lines.
drain the engine tank water trap.
replace the remote tank filter.
run on pre-mix at 50-1 until oil consumption is verified.

when draining the water trap,push the vynil tube off DO NOT pull at it.
sometimes I have to lightly heat them with a lighter.

drain the engine tank with the key on and the remote at at least 1/2 full.
when the alarm sounds install the tube.
turn the key off.
wait 15 seconds and turn the key back on.

you should now see 3 bars or arrows flashing an audible alarm and the transfer pump will turn on and run for 180 seconds or until the engine tank full line is met.

[Enduroman]

Thanks for the reply Rodbolt! Great advice.
Do you really heat up a fuel line with a lighter, or are you ****ing my chain??? Thankfully, I'd already cleaned the fuel / water filter, so don't need to contemplate that any further.
There's no remote fuel filter that I can find. I doubt there is a water trap in the fuel tank either. Very hard to reach in this boat.
I've had a few tanks of gas through it now, so am happy that the fuel lines are clean, and that the oil is pumping up from the remote tank. I'll probably book it in for a carb and fuel pump cleaning this fall.

I'm ordering impeller kit, T-stats (are there 2?), and grommet right away, and will tackle that myself when I can get the parts.
Anything else?
Thanks again!
Dan

[99yam40]

Thanks for the reply Rodbolt! Great advice.
Do you really heat up a fuel line with a lighter, or are you ****ing my chain??? Thankfully, I'd already cleaned the fuel / water filter, so don't need to contemplate that any further.

Dan

I think he was talking about the water trap on oil tank

[Enduroman]

Ahh. That makes sense. Thanks. :-)

[Enduroman]

Got all these parts and when I dropped the lower unit to change the impeller, there was a teaspoon or so of oil (very black liquid - maybe liquified grease??) that came down the drive and shaft, and a small amount more from under the powerhead. (difficult to see origin). Is this normal???? Thanks!

Hope to do the T-stats tomorrow.

For anyone else finding this thread and changing their ProV200 impeller, I found the "kit" to be a waste of money. The metal housing and the wear plate were both like new, and the rest of the stuff in the 'kit' that I bought were items that would not tend to wear out - in my novice opinion. Bolts / washers / shaft key.
I also found it helpful to remove the prop as it reduces the weight of the lower unit for maneuvering it around. Hope it helps.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The first time I replaced the impeller in my 06 F150 it had very low hours and like yours, short of the impellor having a "set" everything else looked fine. I replaced just the impellor.

Years later (about 2 months ago) I had the dealership do a WP kit (they won't do just an impellor and possibly have the engine come back from cutting corners). They strongly urged checking the seals under the SS plate as they do tend to fail with time/age, etc.

They ended up replacing both seals (I saw the one seal beginining to fail) under that SS plate that was just starting to leak.. They also drained the lower unit oil (which I just replaced) to do a pressure test to test for any leakage. BTW, per the mechainic, my alignment key did indeed need replacement (I have all the spare, left over, old parts).

If you run ethonol fuel, I would invest in some Yamaha "RingFree". It helps negate the effects of ethonol and helps clean the fuel system system and the upper end of the engine too.

On the lower unit driveshaft splines, shifter, etc, you should use Yamaha waterproof grease. The goo you see may be some other grease that didn't hold up.

I can tell you from experiance, HD wheel bearing grease will NOT hold up as well as the Yamaha grease (There's a mid section bushing on my engine that will squeel with time if the correct grease is NOT used (don't ask)

[rodbolt17]

is the kit always nessasary?
nope.
however the wear plates,note the term WEAR plate, do wear out the insert does wear the key wears and the impellers take a set.
here in the salt pond where there is a lot of sand in the water they wear faster.
once they wear the impeller can no seal on the top and bottom of the pump and pressure/volume suffer.

your motor.
you cut every corner you can for that one day on the ewater.
then post about a loss of compression.
sometimes you only get one shot at overheat or a leaned out carb jet.

[Enduroman]

Agreed. I used all the parts from the kit anyway. Can't hurt. Thanks.

New problem. The lower unit has been sitting on my workbench for a few days ready to be slid back onto the motor. Something is stopping it though from sliding all the way on. It seems to bottom out about 3/4 inch from where it should be. Everything on the bottom is connecting just fine (water tube and shifting shaft) but there seems to be something blocking the drive shaft up in the powerhead. No amount of wiggling, rocking and turning the shaft itself has any effect. Could something have let go up in there preventing me from reinstalling this? Could it be related to the liquified black grease? I'm tempted to spray some degreaser up in there to clean it out but fear there is a bearing or something else in there that would suffer. Thanks.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Couple things come to mind,

Not likely but is the (I believe its equipped) small black speedometer hose "threaded thru" so it can attach to the mid section?

Is the shifter controls and the the lower unit both in neutral?

There should be the water tube that the lower unit plugs into. Could it have slid down some and isn't seated at the upper end?

Just about every part (rubber seals, etc) between the two (lower unit and upper) has at least a fine coating of grease (Yamaha grease on the splines at least), but no, it should slide in.

If your only 3/4" away, the main drive splines are in, I'd be looking hard at the water tube (upper end should it have dropped down some) or the shifter splines not lining up..

It should literally pop in (as it dropped out) if installed correctly. DO NOT FORCE IT...
Good luck...

[Enduroman]

Scott. Thank you for the quick reply. This is driving me nuts!

Yes, the engine has a small black hose that attaches at the front of the lower unit. Is that the speedometer hose? I was wondering. Regardless, it does not interfere at all with the drive shaft. Its threads through easily, awaiting attachment with a zip-tie. No conflict there.

Shifter (in boat) and lower unit are both in neutral. At least they were both in neutral when i started this job, and it hasn't been touched. I suppose its possible that i bumped the little shaft on the lower unit while changing the impeller. How would I know, or remedy that?

The water tube coming out of the mid section of the motor is rock solid. Tried wiggling aggressively to see if I could slide it up some. No luck.

I have a rag and vice grips on the prop shaft so that I can turn it to get the splines aligned while pushing the lower unit upward. Again, it stops solid at about 3/4". I'll fiddle more with the shifter shaft.

This really has me stumped.

[Bilge Rat]

When you get the LU to the point of that last 3/4" that won't go try this.

Holding the LU in place tilt the motor down so that the LU will be sliding straight up. This seems to help in getting everything aligned.

The water tube can hang up sometimes.
If the LU is pushed up with the motor at an angle the weight if the LU tends **** it just enough to make alignment hard to achieve.

I think the watertube as well as the waterpump housing around the watertube socket hit something in the midsection when trying to install it with the motor trimmed up.

Try installing it straight up, it greatly helps me.
Having someone to help hold the weight while you relax a second then regrip the LU.

[Enduroman]

Thank you for the idea bilge rat. I will try that at first light tomorrow! Dan

[99yam40]

If you are turning the prop shaft and it turns the drive shaft then the lower unit is not in neutral any more.
If it was then turning prop shaft will not turn the drive shaft

[Enduroman]

Ok thanks 99yam40. The tutorial that I used to change the impeller had me turn that shaft. How do I get lower unit back in neutral?