2002 F115 Oil Pressure Warning

[JONSNELL]

My on going issue with the oil pressure warning continues. The frustrating thing is I have not been able to present it to the dealership with the warning happening.

My outboard had 890 hours on it and until the recent IAC ( where we eventually replaced the IAC and ECM ) issue had been fault and trouble free.

After we sorted the IAC issue I had the oil pressure warning sound when flushing the outboard after use. At this point we removed the powerhead and replaced all the oil seals, O rings etc that seal the oil pan. I then used the motor for 4 trips without incident. Then had the alarm sound again , I managed to clear this by stopping and restarting the motor a couple of times. The problem seemed to have disappeared for the next couple of trips and then re appeared again last week , this time taking 5 or 6 restarts to clear it and then again when I flushed the outboard when I got home, that was last thursday and when I used the outboard on the weekend same thing Saturday morning 5-6 starts to clear it, no problem when I flushed it that afternoon, then on Sunday no problem but when I was flushing it this morning ( Monday ) it happened again.

The problem only ever happens at first start up and once cleared for the day does not reappear ( other than the times where it has sounded when flushing at the end of the day )

No codes on the diagnostic.

[99yam40]

might check to make sure the computer is reading the pressure correctly by using a pressure gauge on motor .
I believe it will alarm if too low or too high, so need to see what oil pressure is when alarm sounds

[JONSNELL]

Took it to the mechanic and they got it to repeat the fault once and but not a second time. He is suspecting a faulty wiring harness.

[JONSNELL]

Issue had not shown for a couple of trips and then again this morning when flushing the outboard the alarm sounds again. The difference this time was that I could get the alarm to stop when I lifted the engine RPM but then it would sound when the RPM went back to idle. It took about 4-5 stops and starts to get it cleared.

Going to try a new sensor and see if that resolves the issue.

[madharchod]

you have got two issues here one could be the wiring harness being loose or corroded and the other one is the sensor switch but i dont think the later is the problem as when ever you lift the engine up it comes on then the problem lies in the harness check it out a simple multi meter will help find the problem
cheers

[JONSNELL]

The tech said that they had tested the harness for continuity and all was good and also mention that they had others ( harnesses ) in the past that had tested OK with a multimeter but still had given this problem.

I used the outboard on the weekend - Started the outboard and again it took 3-4 stops and starts to get it cleared - same situation again where lifting the RPM got the alarm to stop but you still need to cycle the key switch to clear the flashing warning on the gauge.

But this time we had something different. Where I launch I have about .5 mile 4kt zone engine ran fine at slow speed but then when I increased RPM the engine ran rough and had no power and then the oil alarm came on. I bought the throttle back to idle and then cycled the key. This happened about another 3-4 times where you could not get it to get full RPM - This would be the engine going into limp mode and then the alarm would sound. But finally get it to clear and engine ran fine all day. Flushed the outboard that afternoon and all good. Gave the boat a full wash yesterday morning and flushed the outboard again, this time I hooked up the YDIS - but no codes showing prior to starting - started the outboard and alarm sounded again nothing on YDIS. Took 3-4 stop/starts to clear it.

[JONSNELL]

An update.

After the last time where the engine went into limp mode and alarm sounded, I took the motor back to the dealer and asked that they change the sensor. They attended to this but also reported that they tested the voltage form the battery and standing voltage was over 12v but on start it was dropping to 7v. They replaced the battery cables.

I used the boat the next day and no problem at all. Fixed at last I thought.

Fast forward a week and I put the boat in and the alarm sounds that takes at least 6 cycles of stop start to clear the alarm and as usual no problems all day. At times the alarm was strong other times it was weak and like it was only just coming on. It did this on 4 consecutive days. We even left the power connected to the battery over night to see if that made a difference and it didn't. I thought at least now I can take it to the dealer and I know the alarm will sound and often so they could properly diagnose the problem.

I put the boat in for the 5th day running yesterday and no alarm. Nor did it sound when I flushed the outboard at the end of the day.

[JONSNELL]

Another Update

Back to the dealer to replace the wiring loom - Instead he just installed a separate wire from the sensor to the ECM. Worked fine for one trip and then when flushing the outboard the next day and on the next trip back to having to to half dozen stop starts to get it cleared.

No idea where to go form here.

[boscoe99]

"Boscoe once mentioned that the earlier Yahamas OPS were failing, so Yamaha upgraded the part."

Different motor. The F115 does not use an oil pressure sensor. It uses an oil pressure switch.

[JONSNELL]

I used the boat on Monday returned home late that night - quickly washed the trailer yesterday morning and put the boat back in the shed until the afternoon when I had time to fully clean the boat and flush the outboard.I left the motor partly tilted ie not fully down but lower then where it travels with the my-wedge. When I went into the shed in the afternoon there was a spot of oil on the concrete about 4in across not a lot of oil but quite obvious. I had a look where it was coming form and it looks like it is leaking down the shift rod out the front where it enters the lower unit and then onto the ground.

Back to the dealer on Monday - not sure that these two issues are related.

[JONSNELL]

Another trip - no oil pressure warning until I went to flush the outbaord the next day.

Off to the dealer and now they say that it does actually have low oil pressure, well fluctuating anyway. I guess now that when the problem appears it take a while to clear it and they can get a good look at what maybe happening.

So now it's a new oil pump. I have read where there have been issues with the oil pump on the earlier models. Don't really understand why it only happens at first start.

Anyway here's hopping we get it sorted this time.

[rodbolt17]

while there were some pump leakage problems back about 2001 you most likely have a pressure regulator with debris in it.

like Boscoe pointed out, the F115 does NOT have an oil pressure sensor.

it uses a SWITCH, a switch is either ON or OFF.

that alarm tone you describe indicates a low voltage situation.
low voltage will trigger tones as well.

[JONSNELL]

Thanks Rodbolt.

When you say pressure regulator - is that part of the oil pump ?

We have replaced the switch without out any change. But the issue has got worse in that it takes more stop/starts to get it cleared - still OK all day once cleared though.

Just trying to get my head around this whole costly and time consuming problem.

[rodbolt17]

has anyone actually mounted a mechanical gauge on it and actually looked at oil pressure?

its a stupidly simple switch.
its ON when pressure is low,less than about 25 PSI and OFF above about 25 psi.
why replace it blindly when its so simple to test on or off??

[JONSNELL]

I asked that question at the outset and they said that they had a gauge on it and it had good oil pressure.

Now they are saying it is low and/or fluctuating.

In their defense early on it would only do it sometimes and it only took one or two starts to get it cleared so it would have been difficult to get a reading that would have showed low pressure and/or set off the switch.

Fast forward 3 months and 50 hours and now when it does happen ( ie not every time ) it takes several stop/starts to get it to clear and therefore a better chance to measure what is happening.