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Two days ago my daughter and I were idling in forward gear and I was letting her drive. The engine died and I had her put in neutral and attempt to start. It wouldn't. I got it to fire on 2nd attempt and it was sputtering badly so I idled engine up with idle control lever but still wouldn't run smoothly. It died upon putting idle lever back in low and smoke rolled out of the shroud. The same exact thing happened to me that happened to one of your other bloggers. The rectifier burnt up and torched the ECM unit and completely melted the intake. Is there a defect or recall we were not aware of. I am not going to be as fortunate as bfluid (the other blogger) who escaped with a $700 tab. The boat shop told me the ECM, rectifier, and intake were going to be $1000 before any labor. Any help on what the heck happened or how this could have been prevented? I always take pristine care of my Yamaha and run her with pride. I am devastated to say the least.
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I'm the other guy -- happened to me about 2 years ago, same symptoms leading up the the smoke/fire.
My Yamaha Master tech pointed out my probable cause - wing nuts on the starting battery, he said one was loose when he disconnected the battery and was probably the culprit. Wing nuts on the cranking battery is a no-no that I learned the very expensive way.
I think your boat shop is charging you premium for parts, if you ordered here they would be:
1. CDI $362.75
2. Regulator $195.65
3. Intake $151.45
TOTAL - $709.85
These are easy change out parts so labor shouldn't be much IMHO.
Please keep us informed on how this plays out. -
More info for you -
I was told that my wing nuts on my cranking battery were loose while I was running. This "freaks out" the voltage regulator because it sees a fully charged battery, then a millisecond later it sees a battery that needs a full charge -- this vicious cycle goes on and on and finally the regulator gives up the magic blue smoke.
And when it goes it takes other expensive parts with it.
Rodbolt (Yamaha Mastertech) explained it to me like this: and I quote....
The stator always puts out voltage when the flywheel rotor is spinning.
once the rectifier converts this AC voltage into a DC voltage the voltage regulator takes over.
The stator is capable of about 60 volts and a current capability of about 40 amps. This current and voltage MUST be dropped to a useable figure,
this is the regulators job. What current is not used is shunted to ground and is bled off as HEAT.
NO current path means NO heat dissipation which leads to letting the smoke out of the circuit. It doesn't matter WHAT part of the current path degraded. It could be an internal cable failure,connector terminal to cable failure or terminal to block,starter hot feed or battery terminals or a bad battery.Comment
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Hmmm..... I have wing nuts on my starting battery also and had just put new battery in 3 weeks ago. I have been boating for years and have had lots of experience with boat and motors and no one has ever mentioned this to me as a possible hazard. Talk about feeling like a complete idiot..... ***. I have always gone to great lengths to take care of my equipment and the thought that my own ignorance could be the cause is really upsetting. Thanks for the info.Comment
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Here is a good write up on how a $1 wing nut can cost you -- as now we both know all too well:
Battery terminal connections - how a wing nut can cost you big money | Outboard Parts - Evinrude and Johnson Outboard Motor Boat OMC Stern Dr - Powered by Clvr.TvComment
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My mechanic has agreed that I can buy the parts necessary from your site cheaper than he can get them. I am wanting to buy the parts here but also need additional parts that were affected. How can I order the additional parts and/or be sure I'm ordering the correct parts for this motor? I'm needing the wiring harness that plugs into the ECM (particularly the lowest plug in) but can't see what I'm looking for in the wiring diagrams provided. Most of the plastic parts on the front of the motor were melted.Comment
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I read the linked article on wing nuts being unsuitable and recommending standard nuts and a lock washer. Would nylock nuts works just as good?Comment
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Wiring harness - It's hard for me to tell which one from the exploded view. Boats.net or Rodbolt - ANy help here??!!!
thanks!!Comment
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As far as Nyloc nuts - NO.
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid will dissolve nylon!
Diluted Sulfuric Acid will partially dissolve nylon!
Does battery acid effect nylon - Yahoo! Search ResultsComment
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What is your question? I thought you got your motor fixed several years ago?Originally posted by CatCam View PostComment
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Tclayton is looking for the wiring harness that plugs into the CDI. When my F90's regulator burnt up it didn't burn the wiring harness like it did Tclayton's....so I didn't have to order that part....my motor is fixed and running like a champ!Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
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Oh. The wire harness is item number 24 in the illustration labeled Electrical 2.
2003 F90TLRB Yamaha Outboard ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram and PartsComment
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Thanks for the help guys. It only melted the lower plug in on the left side of the cdi pack so was difficult to tell from the diagram if that was the one I needed or one from another diagram. That was the one I had suspected but hated to order the incorrect part when I knew one of you guys probably had the answer. I should be able to place my order tomorrow. Any idea on turn around on most orders? Hopefully can have parts in a few days and be back on the water by next weekend.Comment
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I ordered parts for my friends F100 (voltage regulator!) on a Wednesday and received it the next Monday! They'll give you a tracking number -- this is a "high speed" operation, I haven't been disappointed.Originally posted by Tclayton View Post
I do hope you tell everyone you know about the wingnut issue. The new owner's manual illustrated the battery hookup and shows regular hex nuts, not wingnuts. I think they should state explicitly not to use them.
Good luck with the repair, hopefully you and your daughter can be back out on the water soon.Comment
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#24 wiring harness - $254.41
Holy mother of all wire connections!
I'd find that connection to the CDI and do a splice-a-roo! Or maybe find a junked motor and get the connection. ***, I never would have thought.....
do you think it can be fixed instead of replaced?
IF IT CAN'T SOMETHING YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER-- THE CDI'S FOR THE 2003 & 2004 ARE THE SAME -- HOWEVER THE WIRING HARNESS IS DIFFERENT??? BUT SINCE THE CDI'S ARE THE SAME THEN THE PLUGS MUST BE THE SAME. I FOUND A USED WIRING HARNESS ON FLEABAY FOR $79.99, YOU COULD USE THE PLUG OFf OF IT!!....IT WOULD SAVE YOU $174!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Yamaha-...a21c11&vxp=mtrLast edited by CatCam; 08-16-2013, 01:55 AM.Comment
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