I'm out of gas right now and will have to be somewhere shortly... I'll have to try that tomorrow. To be sure I mark it correctly... you do mean put a mark on the stainless part of the prop and one on the spacer between the washer and nut?
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Mark between the actual outside of the prop and the brass? part that actually slips over the splines. They should stay in the same position.
Re re-hubbing a prop, I've had it done and am quite familar with it. If its bad enough, it will indeed slip by hand. I've had to idle home as it slipped anything above idle..
The below is a pic of my spare aluminum 150HP prop. In my case, if I was checking it, I'd scratch the outside aluminum part of the prop and another scratch where the splines are.
There's a rubber cushion pressed inbetween that can fail with time and allows both of those parts to slip (it shouldn't slip)Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 04-08-2014, 08:44 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Gotcha... thank you for the info. I'll fire it up tomorrow and see if it's slipping. I have to say though... it's not going into reverse gear for sure. When I put it in reverse... the prop spins freely like it is still in neutral. It's definately not going into gear. I had someone shift it between gears and the rod that connects to the lower unit is moving appropraitely... it's just not setting into gear in the lower unit. How do I disassamble the lower unit to examine the other parts for damage? Which part is most likely to be damaged?
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Originally posted by gdhodges View PostDid everybody give up? I'm still in this fight... Please help.
The OB of course doesn't have the many gears a motorcycle has but the OB, (like the MC) has gear cogs that actually engauge the main shaft.
The OB forward and reverse gears are constantly meshing and really don't get the brunt of the shifting, the cogs do.
With the grinding on with your lower unit, I suspect the cogs are worn on the "clutch dog"(part #55), rounded off edges or the shifter linkage is bent NOT allowing the cogs to fully engage. You could possibly have rounded edges on the gears themselves but you won't know until your into the unit.
I bought my shop manual from the Yamaha dealership.
What may help is looking at the parts fisch of the assembly(available here on the forum under "purchase Yamaha parts"). Put in your information and you'll find the part I'm referring to.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...130/parts.htmlLast edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 08-26-2013, 07:00 AM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Sorry for long silence. I got on here to search another issue that's come up (alarm sounding, but water still flowing good... not extremely hot either-gonna post that in a bit). I'm going to get the official manual and see if I feel comfortable taking the lower unit apart myself. I really don't have the money to even fix anything that could be broken right now... so I've just been going out and not using reverse. This is only a temperary solution I know, but life has decided to let other priorities than a boat come in. First I need a real manual (for standard maintenance and troubleshooting)... then I'll be in a position to really try to tackle the work or decide to have someone else do it. Thank you to everyone who has posted on this issue.
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