I have a 1994 55HP model C115TLRS. The other day when putting in reverse it started knocking when in reverse... when I got back to the dock at the end of the day I tried to put in reverse and it just whined and when I returned it to the neutral position it lunged forward... stuck in forward. The next day I adjusted the shift cable on the top of the motor to get it to not be stuck in forward at the neutral position. Tried forward and reverse. Both engage (although I had to pull hard to get it to go in reverse)...the prop did spin in reverse so I thought I had "fixed" it. Took it to the water, put in and fired it up. Put it in reverse, same thing... just whines. Please help! I've never worked on an outboard. This is my first boat. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and can follow instruction like nobody's business.
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Drop the lower unit and inspect shift linkage....you can shift from forward/neutral/reverse by grabbing the splined shift shaft with some channel-lock pliers(wrap rag around shaft to protect the splines),move shift shaft while turning prop shaft to "feel" for each gear...if it all works fine then put it in neutral and then put your remote control in neutral position and put lower unit back on....of course you may have trouble in the lower unit, but maybe and hopefully it's just out of adjustment....good luck!
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shifter
I might add, when reinstalling the lower unit, make sure the linkages under the cowl are aligned up.
Adjust the cables AFTER THAT.
With all the marks lined up on the shifter "slide" under the cowl, move the remote control shifter back and forth, then into neutral. Then the cable should slide over and clip on (or adjust it so it does). Everything will now be lined up.
As posted above, unless the lower unit is damaged, you should be good to go..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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The mechanism and and how you adjust it will basically be a slide unit under the cowl. (there's usually marine grade grease on the slide)
If you have someone shift the shifter, you'll see the linkage move. When in neutral, it should come back to middle of the moving range.
For that section, no video is needed. There should be a mark on the mechanism that moves and a mark on the mechanism that stays stationary. Just make sure they are lined up BEFORE putting the shifter cable on.
Those marks lined up is the true neutral postion to the lower unit. As long as the shifter cable (remote shifter IN NEUTRAL) installs without moving anything, your good.
If its off, you may have to extend or shorten the adjuster on the cable so it slips on easily.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postthe early Yamahas did not have SS shift shafts and they rusted to the point they would twist instead of moving the lower unit connection.
You might check on when that change happened and if yours could have that problemScott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Bolt #8:
1994 C55TLRS Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 2 Diagram and Parts
Part #60 is the shifter shaft apparently in question:
1994 C55TLRS Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 1 Diagram and PartsLast edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 04-08-2014, 08:44 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Thanks, just curious.
For the op, if you go to the top of the page, under purchase yamaha parts, you can put in your engine information and it'll give you a photo of each section how it goes together(no torque figures) but hidden bolts, etc... I found it to be a big help often..Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 08-11-2013, 09:18 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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