Timing Yamaha C50TLRZ

[triadmidas]

I recently cleaned all the carbs and installed new carb kits. I was going through the link and synch procedure described in Clymer's manual. I set the static timing as described. However, when i went to check the ignition timing (with light), it was way off at 12 degrees ATDC (should be 6-8). Motor, of course, ran horribly. So to get the measured timing at 6-8 ATDC i had to adjust the static timing in such a way that the throttle arm indicators no longer line up where they should on the electronic timing cover.

What would cause this discrepancy? After adjustments motor runs much, much better.

[99yam40]

My C40TLRX had the same problem with idle timing being too far retarded, 14 instead of 7 after motor warmed up.
I had to change the CDI to correct the problem.

I believe the wiper for throttle position was failing and being part of CDI I had to replace the whole thing.

How does the WOT timing look?

[triadmidas]

I haven't put it on the water yet to test. That test has to be under load, correct?

[triadmidas]

And speaking of throttle position, I've been trying to wrap my head around that one as well. It would seem to me that at full throttle the stopper on the throttle arm should be flush against the roller on the carb lever that opens the throttle plates (with the plates fully open). I guess said another way, the carb lever roller should be at the very end of the throttle arm. But its not. At full throttle the roller is about 1/2 an inch from the end of the throttle arm and the throttle plates are not fully open (though they are very close). I can't figure out how to adjust this. And there seems to be way too much lag between moving the remote arm into forward gear and the throttle arm actually beginning to move off the full retard position.

[rodbolt17]

Clymer, not even real good for the outhouse.
static is just that, means not running.
running is what you need.

[triadmidas]

Now chasing rough idle, sputter and cut off

I'm thinking my problem may be a clogged low speed jet. Is there any way to narrow it down to which carb may be the problem? When i shift the prime start trigger into open it makes the sputtering go away. I had previously cleaned the carbs and installed rebuild kits including new floats. I guess one of the floats could not be adjusted properly but i tried to line the horizontal line on the float up with the top of the bowl.