Overheat? Oil? Alarm?? Whats up?

[FabricGATOR]

Hello,

I have a year 2000, 2350 Bluewater with twin LX / SX150TXRY.

I am getting an audible alarm and both engines auto slow to below 2000 RPM.
I have no flashing bars on either tachometer and show three circles for oil status.

Could I still be having overheat issues that now do not indicate on the tach?
What indication is shown when oil monitoring is indicating low?
Are there any other circumstances that will alarm and send both engines into self protect mode?

I previously had an overheating problem where when running higher RPM for longer periods I would get an alarm, both motors would slow below 2000RPM and I would have a flashing bar on one (or the other) of the tach's that would show overheat.

I would slow down, go neutral, one alarm would silence, and after a short, 40 second idling interval so the other alarm would silence. I could then power back up and stay below 3200 RPM's indefinitely.

[again, previously] One evening I flushed the engine for several hours recirculating Salt Away with an old Sureflow fresh water pump. I connected to the flushing port with a section of garden hose on the pump and caught the discharge into a garbage bag within a recycle bin, to recirculate it with the pump. It made lots of foam suds. I think I read about this here or elsewhere on the web using Rydlime (rid lime). This worked miracles on the Port (LX150TXRY) but I then used the same solution on the Starboard (SX150TXRY) I have since repeated the process on Stbd with fresh solution.

Folks, your assistance and guidance is always greatly appreciated. Nothing in this world can replace your years of hands on experience. Thank you.

[jb123]

You have digital gauges ?
Low oil should show as one or 2 bars on gauge
Overheat should flash on gauge as well
Have you ever checked oil level when it happens ?

[Sequoiha]

If you have a duel panel keyswitch the module in the keyswitch will put both engines into rpm reduction at the same time. you need to get a seperate key switch and hook it into the harness to isolate which engine is the issue,,

[FabricGATOR]

Hello again and thank you jb123,

Yes, I have digital gauges an no, I did not note a flashing temp bar (as I have in the past) and the oil gauges showed all three circles as I usually expect with good oil quantities (at least 1/2 full remote oil tank) (I think I have 15 Qt tanks) Supposedly the full circle bar should disappear and the second bar will flash when the remote oil tank is low but the engine oil tank is full, all three will flash when the engine oil tank is low but the remote is full. And a single flashing bar under the empty circle and both engines go into protection mode when both tanks are low. I am not aware of any of these indications on either gauge and I have been looking pretty close.

Now I am aware of a propping discrepancy where as I am only getting 4600 RPM WOT, too low. I am turning 14X19 SS Stiletto wheels. I am currently on the hunt for something more to my liking of closer to 5300 RPM. Suggested was 14X17 or maybe 14X15. Could the extra stress of being worked hard be giving me some impending (heart attack) symptom and (fibrillation) without an indication on any of the digital gauges?


I think you just inspired me to check something. The little white button filter on the remote oil tank. What if it were partially obstructed and when running, it sucked the main engine oil tank down to low limit but by the time I get to check, it has slowly refilled... now, about 1/3 qt oil in that tank. That's about 4 gallons mixed gas at 50:1 or 8 Gals at 100:1 ah, BS there no way, it would take me 20 minutes to burn through that, not one or two minutes...

One of the working pro tech's quoted a test prop part number in another thread. I wouldn't know where to begin to borrow something like that. I imagine it is a test load prop for running in a tank without going anywhere.

[99yam40]

I would start by testing the oil and temp alarms on both motors to make sure they are indicating on the gauges as they go off.
Always good to know they work properly, and if they are not you found something to fix.
Sorry but have no idea what else could alarm and send into safe mode, maybe wiring or the duel switch set up having problems

Your local Yamaha dealer should have access to the proper Test prop

[FabricGATOR]

Thank you Sequoiha and 99Yam40,

So I had a hunch and went inspecting the remote oil tank. I thought maybe the white button filter was partially clogged. I back flushed it with an aerosol of ether or carb cleaner, catching the output in a clean paper towel. Nothing but green with oil. I also inspected the pump and found it almost rusted through. I tested it on a spare battery and it pumped well with no abnormal noises. I happened to have a buddy that deleted his remote oil tank for mixing gas the old way. His pump was fairly new and only minor corrosion forming, so I gave it a wire brush, coated it in LPS 3, and installed it into my tank full of Yamalube. I only used the good tywraps with the SS tang, and blasted all the hoses clean.

Went for a test ride yesterday evening and still, I am getting an alarm on what I believe on the SX150TXRY (Stbd) and I believe it is that one because I pull them both back to neutral and one of the alarms goes off. Meaning, when I pull the port throttle back to neutral, 1/2 the audible alarm silences. If I pull the Stbd throttle back to neutral first, no change. After about 10-25 seconds at idle or slow trawl, the second half of the alarm silences.

I hesitate to run them with the cowl off because when I slow from a plane, the engine will be awash in sea water. I guess I could run em, and as soon as I get an alarm, shut everything down and pull the cowl to see oil tank level.

Again, during the alarm and RPM auto reduction, I showed no alarm indication on either tachometer. I do have the Stbd engine fuel flow transducer inoperative. And the Stbd engine has a stalling issue and rich plugs.

I found the linkage rod end on the oil con*****er, item #21 p/n 6H1-41237-00-00 (joint, link) cracked and when I nudged it, the threaded linkage slipped off the rod. I have one on order but wrapped some safety lockwire around it temporarily for testing purposes. This allows me to thread it back on like normal and adjust it to the stop pin with the throttle set at idle. I was hoping that this was my rich plug indication (really hoping this was all my trouble , I have not checked the plugs as yet.


The temp sensors, are they switched open/closed continuity? Can I just jumper at the sensor plug to test the circuit or do I need a resistive value?

I appreciate your help.

[FabricGATOR]

If you have a duel panel keyswitch the module in the keyswitch will put both engines into rpm reduction at the same time. you need to get a seperate key switch and hook it into the harness to isolate which engine is the issue,,

I have a Yamaha panel with two key's and a single missing captain lanyard. Is this the dual panel keyswitch you speak of?

So I should get an ignition switch set up from a single engine installation and wire them independently for testing purpose?

[Sequoiha]

yes, if you have 2 keys and 1 kill lanyard that is a dual panel key switch, there is a module built on the back of the switch, if one engine goes into rpm reduction the module puts both in.. a seperate key switch will help you isolate which engine is the issue,,

and for the record I have 2 150 two strokes right now a 98 carbed and a 2000 ox66 doing the same thing, I have run both with the cowls off and used a temp gun while running, above 4000 i get alarms and rpm reduction i can slow down to about 3500 and in about 30 seconds the alarm shuts off, speed back up to above 4000 and the alarm comes back on, i can to this repeatedly,, I just pulled the heads on both engines and the block is clean, new water pumps, thermostats, pressure control valves, and still have the issue, the sensors are ohming out good and the switches are open, so i guess im gonna pull a power head and inspect the tuner and power head gasket.. might be something in there..

[99yam40]

Are these motors also not giving any indication on the gauges as to what the alarm is?

I have read of other alarms on some motors like water in fuel and low voltage, but have no idea if they will put motor in RPM reduction when they come in.
Maybe a bad diode would allow RPM reduction to come in when it should not.

Still think testing all alarms to see what indicates and what does not would be a good idea

[FabricGATOR]

I have run both with the cowls off and used a temp gun while running, above 4000 i get alarms and rpm reduction i can slow down to about 3500 and in about 30 seconds the alarm shuts off, speed back up to above 4000 and the alarm comes back on, i can to this repeatedly,,

Now, when you go back above 4000, with mine it does not happen right away. After a 40 second run it is like they slowly heat up, -OR- eat some oil that is not replenished quick enough. Slow down either idle to 1100 and 20 seconds later it clears. Kinda like my aging body trying to sprint up the stairs, walk a few flights to catch my breath and then I can gallop again.

I can slow down to about 3500 and in about 30 seconds the alarm shuts off, speed back up to above 4000 and the alarm comes back on, i can to this repeatedly,,

I see, but I can't slow to 3500 to try to duplicate your findings as when I alarm I have 2000 maximum (protected mode) and that's not enough to sustain my hull on a plane.

I did note that when I go into protected mode and then idle back because 2000 is just wallowing in the sea, I go neutral and 1/2 alarm goes out (port throttle does it). Then with the stbd alarm still chiming, if I punch both throttles, they'll both jump back up to speed and then the Stbd will pull back 2000ish auto style.

I'm thinking I may have to get a priest to perform an exorcism... Gremlins!

[FabricGATOR]

Are these motors also not giving any indication on the gauges as to what the alarm is?

I have read of other alarms on some motors like water in fuel and low voltage, but have no idea if they will put motor in RPM reduction when they come in.
Maybe a bad diode would allow RPM reduction to come in when it should not.

Still think testing all alarms to see what indicates and what does not would be a good idea

You are correct sir,

I do not get any indication of alarm on any of the four gauges. My new speedometer is indicating 14.7 VDC. I do not have the water sensors installed on the fuel filters.... Hmmm...

You know, my next gauge to replace for optical clarity is the fuel management. Now you have me second guessing myself. That's good, why I'm here.

I wonder if I've been missing that funny little indication on that hard to see gauge.... I'm almost certain I looked at them all. I noted corrosion in the fuel flow sensor plug on the stbd engine. Also happens to be the fuel flow transducer that is inop at this time.

In troubleshooting that, I swapped port and stbd wiring temporarily to see if the fault followed the transducer or the wiring. When I swapped them I had no indication of fuel flow from either engine. So I believe I have both a bad transducer and faulty wiring. I think I read that there is an extra wire there for that water separator sensor.

Something to investigate!

What do you pro's do when a plug gets corrosion in it. Can I get a new harness end plug assy, crimp on new contacts and insert them into the (molex)? I tried CRC electrical contact cleaner and mechanical means (wire tooth brush). Its just such a small little contact in that nice water resistant housing, I'd hate to chew that up or break it, damage the gasket. I guess I should smash one to see if I can figure a way to release the spade connectors for cleaning.

I obtained second hand, from a repower, two fuel flow transducers and one jumper extension wire that had both male and female new plug ends.

Butt splicing on a plug end is not my favorite permanent repair. Usually just another opportunity for another PITA, intermittent, hidden fault. And it looks just like some young driver's, project Camaro wiring.

Does Yamaha have tech support? Probably not for me, the consumer. They would support their authorized service centers by referring me to them for a hundred dollars an hour, and I just don't know of any around these parts that are worth that. Three hours later and I could have afforded another Yamaha digital gauge...

[Sequoiha]

got one of them fixed today, had to swap some parts while testing in the water, it was the temp sensor in the starboard head with the light pink and dark pink wire on one bullet and the black on the other bullet. took some sensors out of another engine for test purposes, this sensor ohmed out ok. but apparently is bad, i could put it back in and alarm, change it out and no alarm. 1 down and 1 to go...

[FabricGATOR]

got one of them fixed today, had to swap some parts while testing in the water, it was the temp sensor in the starboard head with the light pink and dark pink wire on one bullet and the black on the other bullet. took some sensors out of another engine for test purposes, this sensor ohmed out ok. but apparently is bad, i could put it back in and alarm, change it out and no alarm. 1 down and 1 to go...

Well done sir,

I appreciate that you took the time to reinstall the faulty part to ensure that was truly the problem. I have "technicians" that throw parts at it until it works then pat themselves on the back because they are so great. Next month when all the faulty parts return from the factory with green tags, I don't even think that they notice.

If my loaded trailer weren't so heavy for my vehicle, and you were a bit closer I'd bring it to Barber. Looks like a nice place from the website.

I didn't get a chance to do any troubleshooting on it today.

So this is one of the two that would alarm and go protection mode but not indicate fault on gauge? No overheat displayed? Interesting.

Gremlins!

Thanks for the update, you give me hope.

[rodbolt17]

before you get to squirreled out.
The OX66 engines DO NOT use a thermosensor for ANY alarm or indicates.
THEY DO NOT.
if your using a FMM meter and the red/white wire shorts it can cause funny stuff.

myself I would test the alarms while watching the visual indicates first.
then chase ghosts.

[99yam40]

You are correct sir,

I do not get any indication of alarm on any of the four gauges.
I was trying to ask Sequoiha if his motors were alarming but not indicating like yours

I noted corrosion in the fuel flow sensor plug on the stbd engine. Also happens to be the fuel flow transducer that is inop at this time.

In troubleshooting that, I swapped port and stbd wiring temporarily to see if the fault followed the transducer or the wiring. When I swapped them I had no indication of fuel flow from either engine. So I believe I have both a bad transducer and faulty wiring. ..

Looks like Rodbolt is pointing something out that will do strange things, so head in that direction. Anytime you have a known problem , it is best to address it. I hope that comment on red/white wire thing will get something done for you along with the testing of alarms