When do I stop pouring?

[Cod--Ger]

I am new to this site. I am redoing/restoring my seventh boat. Five have been powered by Yamahas. They have all had the auto oil injection systems and I never had any problems with them.

The boat I am working on now is a '91 Grady White Dolphin 25 with 2 Yamaha 200s. This is the first boat with hull mounted oil fills. The remote tanks on the other boats were filled at the tanks themselves. These tanks have 1 1/2" hoses attached to the fill ports and then up to fills on the gunwale.

My question is this. When filling a tank with oil, when do you stop? Those hoses can hold quite a bit of oil. No oil level indicators can be seen down in the darkness?

Thanks for any comment.

[Sequoiha]

I guess i would pour till it was full, maybe a flashlight on the side of the tank would help,,

[Cod--Ger]

The problem is that the tanks are in a sealed hold and are mounted about 6" above the keel. The only access is through a 6" deck plate. It is a Grady White Dolphin 25. It is a bad design since the tanks need to be maintained regularly. It makes it tough when you have to break the seal on the deck panel (18" x 36"), maintain the tanks and then re-calk the panel each time. The flashlight won't work. I thought about mounting a light behind each tank so that they shine through to help see the oil level.

Thanks

[99yam40]

I would think once you get used to how much oil is used per hour you could guess and watch gauges that indicate oil level.

Lights mounted down there sound like a good idea.

Marking the tanks with lines could give a quick reference to gal/1/2 gal needed to get to full

[Cod--Ger]

Hadn't thought about marking the tanks. I am replacing all thru-hulls, scuppers, hoses and clamps. I haven't had the boat in the water since I sea tested it in Miami last summer. Got it to Oklahoma an started tearing it down. I'm sure trying to figure out a better fill setup other than that 2" hose. That could spill a lot of oil making a tough cleanup.

I appreciate the input.

[Cod--Ger]

Sorry, I meant 1 1/2" hose.

[rodbolt17]

your set up sucks.
no other way around it, it sucks.
you will overfill, you will find out the gasket at the tank doesnt seal.
you will occasinally have an extra QT or two of oil in the bilge.
sounds sucky, right?

not near as sucky as when the remote tank fill gaskets leaks.

BLOWN MOTORS

I have seen to many blown yamaha motors with a 1/2 level of water in the engine oil tank due to leaking remote deck fills.

the remote oil tank picks up from the bottom of the tank.
whatever liquid is at the bottom gets transfered to the engine tank.

just today, a blown Z200 TLRY,smoked, smoked due to water intrusion into the remote oil tank due to poor rigging and a defective gasket.

any body need a smoked Z200 single driver project?
it will go cheap.

ditch the remote fills if at all possible, if not possible rearrange where and how the remote fill is located.

[Bilge Rat]

How about a deck hatch like a TH marine to replace the access plate. That would make it easy to fill and check the tanks.
If it is hard to check and maintain you will not do it.
Thick oil from just a little water will not flow thru the small hoses on the motor at the rate the engine demands and will cook it as dead as a gallon of water.

[bajakeith]

Yikes !!!

I agree with Rodbolt....without seeing it in person,, I can tell you that many,,many gas,,oil thru hull fills (gunnels) and aft deck fillers are always to be checked and or replace "O" ring's and a bit of grease or GOOD oil a few times a season (not wd40) can/ will make world of change in condition...I tell my guys to cover the motor .. and thick white towel over all the parts between the motor cover and deck outlet...like don't leave any exposed cables,,wire,hoses, fill ports just sit out in the sun and bake..best TIP of the week !!!

[Cod--Ger]

Thanks for the information guys . The people over on the Grady White Forum claim that they have never had any leaking problems, and that they are very careful to not overfill when they put oil in the tanks. I'm in the process of trying to find out what Grady White did in later designs to fix this situation. Will keep in touch.

[Cod--Ger]

Hey RodBolt17,

I didn't mean for my situation to P--s you off. I am not happy with the set-up either. I'm not sure all G.W. owners would agree that it Sucks, Sucks, Sucks, but that is the reason for the request for info. The boat IS 22 years old, the motors run great and there is absolutely no signs of an oil spill in the bilge. I appreciate your productive input, but if upsets you to the point of having to slam someone's request, please just skip mine.

Thanks

[Sequoiha]

He is not pissed off, just loves what he does.. the oil tanks are not sealed, I would try the mounting a light behind them so you can see the level, do not over fill the tanks. they will leak. and make sure the orings on the oil fill caps are in good order, dont want water in the tank.

[rodbolt17]

DUDE
ease up
I did not mean to piss in your weaties.

however you have a hull that is a very good model.
the oil tank set up sucked when new and did not improve with age.

if your deck fills are installed with the cutout fwd, either drill two 1/8th holes in the aft section or remont them with the cut outs facing aft.

the fills leak, get over it.
if they leak to much the next time the oil transfer pump kicks on it will transfer all, repeat ALL the water from the bottom of the remote tank to the engine tank.

as the engine tank ALSO draws off the bottom the engine oil pump recieves AND pumps pure water into the engine.

bad things happen SHORTLY thereafter.

trust me, or not.

tedious and methodical maint can alleviate some of this design flaw, however no one does it.

you think your tanks are hidden? try a late 90's 33 grady with twins.

[Cod--Ger]

Sequoiha and rod bolt17,

I appreciate your responses. I am getting old and tired of working on boats. Now I want to use them to fish. I am trying my best to finish this one. My arms are bloody from replacing hoses that were originally installed while the liner and deck were being set into the hull. Don't boat manufactures realize that these boats are in service for many years? They don't make them to be suitable for major servicing. Anyway all these things and rethinking the remote oil tank design has made me very frustrated. I don't know maybe it has been 28 days. I appreciate your input.

Thanks,
Leon

[rodbolt17]

I think they realize it, I dont think they care as they know odds are high THEY are never going to see it again.

one of the best, try to find,then replace, the head macerator on a 28' carolina classic.

once you find it,most techs cant, you have two options.
1 pull the stbd engine.
2 replumb and rewire and relocate a new macerator.

but they did look pretty when new.

As to the blood loss.
welcome to my world, do it on a daily basis.
usually my first indication I am bleeding is blood spots on the deck.
not much feeling in my arms and hands anymore.

fiberglass spikes,hose clamps and cut off tie straps can cut like a razor.