Trim/Tilt issue

[jackmanjls]

re: 2006 F90TLR

Today the T/T quit working. I have the 6Y8 CommandLink and thought it needed re-cal. I did a re-cal and still not working.

As the motor moves up/down the movable arm (resistor) moves with no restrictions on the stationary metal finger.

After re-cal I manually moved the movable arm up/down but there was no change on the CLink.

Any advice/ideas or do I replace the moveable arm (resistor)?

[boats.net]

Test sender to see if working.

[jackmanjls]

i disconnected the sensor plug next to the oil dipstick and put a ohmmeter across the 2-pins. i then moved the T/T up/down and the resistance measured from ~5ohms to over 200ohms.

my conclusion is the sensor works.

any other ideas that i might try?

[boats.net]

Make sure trim cam on tilt tube is not broken, should be tight on tube.

[jackmanjls]

The trim tab is fine. I stated in my initial forum thread that it's a metal finger. I replaced about 1mo ago when the original plastic finger broke. I also verified that the metal finger is tight, no movement.

To summarize here's what I did.
1. Removed the plug for the resistor, put ohmeter across pins, moved T/T up/down and the meter showed me variable resistance. FYI the connector at the sensor looked clean, no residue.

2. Verified that the metal finger is in its proper place and it is tight.

3. Reset the "Trim 0Set?" option on the command link according to the manual.

The only other thing that I can think of is maybe a dirty connector to or from the command link. Possibly could be a wiring issue.

Any additional ideas? Keep in mind that all other functions on the command link work. Is there some mode that the command link can get into that will bypass the T/T? Maybe I inadvertently put it in a mode that I'm not aware of.

What can you suggest to trace the wiring? In this saltwater environment everything is attack by salt corrision.

[rodbolt17]

make sure the two little pink wires with white connectors by the engine 10 pin main is plugged in and the wire in good condition.

[jackmanjls]

I disconnected the pink wire connecter and looked for contact corrision. There was absolutely no corrision, looked new. I reseated and double checked to see that it was seated properly.

I continued by looking for any wire anomolies, ie, pinched, cut, etc....saw no issues.

After doing all this I verified that the T/T still does not work.

Are there any tests (ohms, volts) that I can make to verify that the T/T input to the ECM is correct? Can the signal be traced to the input of the CLink? I'm trying to isolate the issue to whether it's on the Clink side or ECM side.

Keep in mind that the T/T worked ~1wk ago.