Oil not automatically pumping

[Dave Blaber]

Hi Rodbolt its me again, My Yamaha Z200 hpdi is not automatically filling the reservoir on the motor, only using the manual switch, that tells me the pump is working and there are no blockages as it pumps at the same rate as the other motor, I fitted a new sensor switch in the motor reservoir, turn the ignition on and pull the wiring plug apart, the alarm sounds, so that works, I removed the sensor unit from the holding tank, then I removed oil from the reservoir on the motor to the bottom/ lowest level mark,so it should be asking to be filled, now back to the holding tank I move the float up as if the tank would be full,motor still does not come on, I then bridged the black/red wire with the black wire at the sensor, still nothing, what else can I try, thanks

[rodbolt17]

have you actually read what I have been posting about precision blend and how it works?

If you have you would know that jumping wires with key on engine off will NOT make it transfer on all V6 engines since 1996 and ALL 3.1L v6 motors.

for ease of confusion,mainy me, we call the engine tank, just that.
the remote tank,cause its REMOETLY mounted,just that.
its easier when everyone calls the part the same.

do you have the yamaha digital guages,mainly the tach?

[Dave Blaber]

The key WAS turned on, do you think a person will bridge wires without current!!!!!, and you still have NOT answered my question, in English please and layman's language, thank you

[rodbolt17]

cause you confused me.
its not you, its me.
I am not understaning.
do you have digital gausges?

[99yam40]

If you have you would know that jumping wires with key on engine off will NOT make it transfer on all V6 engines since 1996 and ALL 3.1L v6 motors.
do you have the yamaha digital guages,mainly the tach?

Now you have me confused
Maybe you need to have the jumper in on remote tank switch or have it full of oil and then turn on key to make the oil module turn on pump if the motor tank switch is calling for oil. As the module probably did not see the proper level and has already blocked the automatic transfer

The key WAS turned on, do you think a person will bridge wires without current!!!!!,

I would say you meant voltage instead of current.
also from what I understand The tank switches ground the signal

[seahorse5]

99YAMMY,

The esteemed Rodbolt, our Yamaha outboard guru extraordinaire, is trying to tell you that the oil will NOT transfer with the key just turned to the ON position. The MOTOR MUST BE RUNNING before it will transfer oil, except when the emergency switch is activated.

You ought to be thanking the man for being so patient with you and spending his donated time here to educate you in troubleshooting the motor. Reading comprehension is a good skill to learn before asking others for free assistance on a forum.

Rodbolt has been around the 'net a long time offering guidance and assistance to others due to his generous nature. Show some respect, it will help you also in life as you grow up.

[FabricGATOR]

Thank you Seahorse, well said...

[rodbolt17]

1984-1989 V6 2.6L.
oil system used 3 switchs mounted on a single stem in the engine tank to control pump off,on and alarm.
this switch fed into an oil control module with a mecury switch mounted below the engine tank.
mercury switch would prevent transfer when tilted.
(modules,V4 and V6, replaced after about 2002 will not have a mercury switch but will wire into the pulser coil at the CDI and use black resistor plug caps.)

1990-1995 V62.6L
oil module was incorperated into the CDI assy.
mercury switch was eliminated and the trim sensor signal used.
all other functions were the same as prior years.

1996 and up 2.6L V6, all HPDI and all 3.1L V6.
trim sensor was eliminated from the oil circuits entirely and a pulser coil signal(engine running) is needed for all automatic oil transfers.


switch SWB,remote tank all V6.
SWB closed you get a green lamp or a far right bar.
SWB open indicates low remote tank level,enough for two manual transfers,you get a yellow lamp indicate or center bar flashing and automatic transfer is INHIBITED.


initial engine tank fill.
SWB closed indicating enough oil for transfer.
SW3,lowest switch in the engine oil tank,closed.
this will set the audible,RPM reduction if running,red lamp AND commands pump on for 180 seconds.
this will work with all V6 at key on engine off.
the blue pump wire is taken to ground for 180 seconds at key on if the above conditions are met.
makes 3 minutes worth of voltage and voltage drop testing avalible.

[99yam40]

99YAMMY,

The esteemed Rodbolt, our Yamaha outboard guru extraordinaire, is trying to tell you that the oil will NOT transfer with the key just turned to the ON position. The MOTOR MUST BE RUNNING before it will transfer oil, except when the emergency switch is activated.

You ought to be thanking the man for being so patient with you and spending his donated time here to educate you in troubleshooting the motor. Reading comprehension is a good skill to learn before asking others for free assistance on a forum.

Rodbolt has been around the 'net a long time offering guidance and assistance to others due to his generous nature. Show some respect, it will help you also in life as you grow up.

Sorry,
post was not suppose to be pointed to Rodbolt17.
I thought transfer would happen for a short time at first key on to fill motor tank if there was enough oil in remote tank to make up the switch but after that the motor would have to be running to continue operating normally. Also if the remote switch was not made up at key on then it would lock out the auto transfer until the next key off and back on, but not positive about that. That was what I was trying to bring up

I see Rodbolt posted while I was typing

[rodbolt17]

the V6 and V4 oil control systems have evolved since 1984,first year we got Yamaha outboards from japan dedicated to the US market.
the international market stuff is sometimes very different and the US technician doesnt get information on them.

the V4 always used a seperate oil control module.
the 2004 and up and replacement modules since 04 for the V4 used a pulser coil signal.

early V4 and 2.6L V6,once the alarm was triggered the key had to be cycled to release the alarm hold circuits.
later versions that used the pulser coil signal had to be throttled below 1300 RPM for alarm release.

Build a better mousetrap, mother nature builds a better mouse.
build a more fool proff product, mother nature develops a more determined fool.

however all the systems worked basically the same, other than some minor control differences they all used a 3 position reed switch in the engine tank.

they all used an on/off switch(SWB) in the remote tank.

they all applied 12V at key on power to the transfer pump.

they all used a ground path control at the oil control module regaurdless of where the module was located.( transfer pump blue wire)

they all used some form of transfer inhibit when tilted or not running.

they all used some form of alarm hold circuitry.

its an incredibly simple system that typically can be trouble shot with a standard digital multi meter in under 30 min.
but you must understand the relatio ship of voltage while the device is working and what a voltage drop test is and when to use it

and that is where the initial fill function and the correct tachometer and visual indicators come in so well.
gives me a known 180 seconds to look for a loss of voltage and a voltage drop test to find which path I lost.