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Yamaha trim oil replacement

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  • Yamaha trim oil replacement

    1999 Yamaha 130 hp 2 stroke Saltwater.

    Raising the unit, as it hits the tilt cylinder, it sounded like barnacles scraping off. Then it stuck at full tilt. After an Internet search I realized it might be low on fluid and/or needs bleeding. When I removed the fill plug, air vented out, but I could not get it to take much fluid. I closed the plug and I could now lower the unit. Still the cavitation noise when raising. So I removed the plug with it partially trimmed and frothy white/brown oil came out. My conclusion is that it needs bleeding and might have contaminated oil. I really don't have the time or inclination for a rebuild at this time. But I would like to change out as much ATF as possible after 14 years and 500 hours of operation. After looking at the parts schematic I am thinking of raising the motor, engaging the tilt lock and removing the reservoir by pulling 3 screws. Looks like an o-ring seals it to the main unit. At that point I could simply drain and replace and refill the reservoir using fresh fluid, then go through the bleed procedure. But then I am thinking that if I lower the unit slowly, I could push the oil out of the 3 cylinders also. Then by squirting oil in the reservoir while lifting the motor, or using a clear hose connecting the fill nipple to a quart of ATF, I would avoid sucking more air into the system. Then go through the normal bleed procedure. Will this work?

    As far as bleeding I see 2 schools of thought: first is to just use the pump to cycle the motor up and down, while the second says to do it manually as the pump will just froth whatever air is in the system into the oil, making it harder to remove.

  • #2
    these generally speaking are a self bleeding system, you can pull the manual release valve to get most of the fluid out then tighten the valve . make sure the engine is on the tilt lock. as you add fluid push and hold the trim up button and suck the fluid into the system. do this until the unit lifts the engine off the lock. at that point release the button, continue to fill the resevoir till the fluid comes out of the fill hole. put the cap back on. release the tilt lock, open the manual valve slowly and let the engine weight push the air out of the system. once it is all the way down. tighten the manual valve. then use the button to raise it back up and down a couple of times. recheck the level and all should be good. put some grease on the tips of the trim rams to help with the scraping noise. hydraulic gurgling is normal on these.. hope this helps.

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    • #3
      Thanks. Got the boat pulled and on a rack, only to find out that the release screw wouldn't budge, the PO has buggered up the slot in the screw trying to release it. I did get a bit of oil in the reservoir though, probably less than an ounce. It will work for now. Any tricks to fix the screw? I was using a 5/16" slotted bit in a 3/8" ratchet with no luck, it would just pop out of the slot. Ah, for a hex bolt.

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      • #4
        Got it! Bought a Leslie impact driver, turned out I only needed big slotted bit that came with it and a 3/8" ratchet. It bit the buggered up slot and loosened the manual valve screw quite easily. Followed your advice and with a 5/8"piece of vinyl hose over the vent nipple was able to drain the old oil, used the same hose turned up to fill it while running the pump. Would have worked better with 2 people, but I managed it. Thanks.

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