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1985 150etlk automatic oil pump problem

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  • 1985 150etlk automatic oil pump problem

    My yamaha motor has a buzzer that goes off when an oil reservoir on the motor gets low. There is a float in the reservoir that should automatically turn a pump on to pump oil Into the reservoir when the oil gets low. The float sensor works (we checked it with a voltmeter), but it has 4 wires that come out and go to a box with a switch on it that when held up, turns the oil pump on and fills the reservoir (It's just a manual switch). So I just want to know how to fix the problem so I don't have to stop the boat, take the motor cover off and hold up a switch until the reservoir is full when the buzzer goes off. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    I'll bet that if you used the SEARCH function here that you will find many many instances of people asking the same question - and the people who have answered those same questions probably have carpel tunnel syndrome by now.

    Use the SEARCH feature and figure on spending some time reading all the posts about what you are asking.

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    • #3
      I have. Never same year model or same size motor pops up, and there's different wiring...

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      • #4
        its all the same
        if the manual switch works,the transfer pump and circuits are ok.
        what visual indicates are on the tach at key on?

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        • #5
          Well I'm not quite sure what your asking, I'm in high school and I just got my boaters license and my dads letting me take the boat out over spring break, I understand how engines work and I understand how wiring works and how to test switches, but other than that I'm in the dark all I can tell you is that the float sensor works and obviously since the manual switch works the pump works

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          • #6
            he is asking what the gauges show as far as the oil system is concerned

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            • #7
              The green light comes on but when when I drain the oil tank on the motor the red light comes on and the buzzer sounds.

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              • #8
                green lamp means the switch in the remote tank and circuits are ok.
                dont chase them.
                key on engine off.
                unplug the engine tank switch.
                jump,with a bent paper clip,from black to brown.
                pump should run.
                this test will only work for oil control modules made prior to about 2004.
                later modules will have a green/white wire going to the CDI unit.
                if the pump runs then jump from black to white,pump should shut off.

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                • #9
                  Alright so I saw this on another forum and I tried it, but I did at the side with the box with the emergency switch instead of the side with the float switch and it didn't work. I'll try the float switch side when I get home and let you know how it turns out

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                  • #10
                    And I did it with the key on...I'm not sure if that makes a difference

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                    • #11
                      at key on the brown wire at the remote tank is 12V, the ground path is via the oil control module,automatic, or the manual switch.
                      the 3 switchs in the engine tank are SW2 pump on, SW1pump off SW3 2nd pump on,RPM reduction,red lamp and audible.
                      green lamp on the tach simply indicates enough oil is in the remote to automatically transfer.
                      a yellow lamp would indicate low remote level,bad wiring on the blk to black red circuits or the remote tank is unplugged.

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                      • #12
                        Alright so I tried it and nothing happened I tried jumping black to brown on the float switch part, and the black to brown on the part going to the box with the emergency switchbtw what's that part called? So unless what you were trying to get me to do was brown on float switch part to black on the black box with switch or vise versa it's not working

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                        • #13
                          I also tried it with the key off and on, but never with the motor running, but I know that the motor doesn't need to be running

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                          • #14
                            Oh and I also thought I would tell you that now when I turn the key on the yellow light comes on but it's because the remote tank is just under where the green light would come on, I would think that the jumping of wires still should have worked because the emergency switch still turns on the oil pump

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                            • #15
                              But it was green the night before. And my dad doesn't want me to put anymore oil in the subtank because he wants to use it all and if I can't fix the problem he's just going to rip all of the oil stuff off and mix the oil with the fuel. I'm against doing that, I'm more of a fix it kind of guy rather than a make it work kind of guy, but in the end it's not my boat. So I really want to get it fixed fast. Sorry I could just say all that in one post

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